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Old 05-31-2011, 09:43 AM
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ORIGINAL: Nikolas K
You mean .0015 inches of course, which makes it 0.03mm.
Of course

I have a .0015" feeler gauge, so that's what I use.
Old 05-31-2011, 09:47 AM
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I suspect the distributor is worried that some will have the gap so that the valve never seats.  Doesn't matter if it has a gap hot, if it won't start it won't get hot.
Old 05-31-2011, 11:04 AM
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ORIGINAL: scooterinvegas


ORIGINAL: Nikolas K
You mean .0015 inches of course, which makes it 0.03mm.
Of course

I have a .0015'' feeler gauge, so that's what I use.
Got it![8D]
Old 06-01-2011, 03:44 AM
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Just a quick note on prop figures for the 82 if anyone is interested,they are slightly skewed as it was recorded with a 14x6 apc prop that had the tips splintered when doing a bad three pointer with the decatlon.Pulled 9400 out of it where-as with the old seals i was struggling to get mid eights.An engine you use all the time,that slowly goes off song over a period of months can be hard to pick for the user and you tend to ignore broader main needle settingsto concentrate on flying it.
Old 06-01-2011, 04:05 AM
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Let's try a new prop?
Old 06-01-2011, 07:29 PM
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Hi all,
Just want to run something by you all. Today while flying I had a catastrophic engine failure. I was doing outside loops with my P51 that has a Saito 72 old case installed. The one with the black plastic back plate. Up until now it has run great with the lowest ideal of all my engines. Anyway while flying it suddenly stopped with a loud clang sound. I landed just fine but upon checking the engine I found that the connecting rod broke at the connection to the crankshaft. I have never had an engine do this before so I wanted to make sure I repair it correctly.</p>

So, what all should I replace? Of course the:
Connecting rod
Gasket set</p>


I will have to pull the piston to get to the connecting rod so should I replace the piston ring, and piston pin?
Up until now the backplate has not been an issue but should I go ahead and replace it?
</p>
Old 06-01-2011, 08:35 PM
  #20157  
 
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Hi guys,

Im thinking about buying one of saitos fg 14 gassers. I know they came out a few years ago and I heard some engine were a little tricky to tune. I think I could handle the tuning part ok but I was more wondering about their reliability. I have quite a collection of saito glow engines that never let me down but I have not yet tried one of their gassers. Are they still pretty reliable engine? And just to be sure, the saito 14 fg fits in the same bolt pattern as the saito 82 glow version. I think they are the same engine except one is glow and the other is gas, is that correct?

Thanks,
David
Old 06-02-2011, 03:32 AM
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Sharpeye that's an easy fix.Stop doing outside loops in the 51,specially with that old 72 rattlin round inside it,doh!
Old 06-02-2011, 06:30 AM
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ORIGINAL: Sharpeye22



Hi all,
Just want to run something by you all. Today while flying I had a catastrophic engine failure. I was doing outside loops with my P51 that has a Saito 72 old case installed. The one with the black plastic back plate. Up until now it has run great with the lowest ideal of all my engines. Anyway while flying it suddenly stopped with a loud clang sound. I landed just fine but upon checking the engine I found that the connecting rod broke at the connection to the crankshaft. I have never had an engine do this before so I wanted to make sure I repair it correctly. </p>

So, what all should I replace? Of course the:
Connecting rod
Gasket set</p>


I will have to pull the piston to get to the connecting rod so should I replace the piston ring, and piston pin?
Up until now the backplate has not been an issue but should I go ahead and replace it?
</p>
According to my experience as an engineer in such a case that you have a catastrophic con rod failure it is good to check also the cylinder liner (in the case of the Saito the cylinder), as the broken rod may have damaged it. About piston pin and piston ring you should see their condition, i.e. if they are ok do not replace them. Check also the bottom of your piston. Also, check the combustion chamber, as the free moving piston may have hit the top of the combustion chamber and have destroyed the valves. Also, check the crank journal and the bolts holding the cylinder on the crankcase...
Why was that?Overreving,insufficient lubrication and/or overheating?What do you suspect?
Old 06-02-2011, 07:16 AM
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Old Fart,
I got a good laugh from your post.

Nikolas K,
Thanks for the advice. I will check all you suggested. I am not sure why the connecting rod failed. I was running it on the rich side and I use 20% lube that consisted of 16% synthetic and 4% Castrol. I had checked the temp after the 1st flight as I usually do and it was well within acceptable limits. I did not hear any high wine from the engine before the sudden failure. I guess sometimes metal just breaks from fatigue.

Below are couple of pics of the failed part.


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Old 06-02-2011, 07:41 AM
  #20161  
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It broke where the lubrication holes are on the big end...Did you have many hours of flight on that engine?
Old 06-02-2011, 07:47 AM
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It looks like a brittle tension type failure. Could the piston have seized and the inertia of the prop and all just kept on going to break the con rod? A recent rod failure here on rCU showed an elongated crank end con rod bearing hole which I guess could be caused by the lower end seizing on the crank pin. This one here is different, as it looks like no yielding, just fracture. JMHO.

Sincerely, Richard/Cub Saito #635
Old 06-02-2011, 07:57 AM
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Nikolas K,
I got the engine used off of e-bay when they had only been out a short time. I however have put upwards of 150 hours on it. A lot of flights in several airframes. This little engines has outlasted several ARFs. Of all my engines it has been my favorite.

I have not tried to move the piston yet. I was waiting to take the engine apart and flush the lower end of the cylinder of any lose metal particles before moving the piston.
Old 06-02-2011, 02:19 PM
  #20164  
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ORIGINAL: Sharpeye22

Nikolas K,
I got the engine used off of e-bay when they had only been out a short time. I however have put upwards of 150 hours on it. A lot of flights in several airframes. This little engines has outlasted several ARFs. Of all my engines it has been my favorite.

I have not tried to move the piston yet. I was waiting to take the engine apart and flush the lower end of the cylinder of any lose metal particles before moving the piston.

To be sure about the cause, the rod needs metallographic analysis...which of course no one bothers to do for a aeromodelling engine. IN a full scale aeroengine, this would have meant complete cancellation of the type approval untill investigation of the issue takes place.Then issuing special bulletins etc...
Many things could possibly have caused it.In any case, reassure that the rest of the engine is ok, replace con-rod and continue flying!
Old 06-02-2011, 05:52 PM
  #20165  
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Hey I don't guess there is a way to tell if an engine has been broken in or not is there? I bought one here and seems like it hasn't ever been run so I'm breaking it in just in case. It's a Saito 56 and has been laying around too long. Going to get it into the air.

Thanks,
Jim
Old 06-02-2011, 06:51 PM
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The .56 doesn't require much, about 40 minutes, set the needles at about 20, do the 40 minutes and go fly. The .56 is a sweetheart.
Old 06-02-2011, 08:12 PM
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Guys, i've done the maiden flight on my GreatPlanes Cherokee 40 ARF /w Saito FA-80 !!!

HD720p or more, quality....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOrKvF4xNqE[/youtube]
Old 06-03-2011, 03:57 AM
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"needles at 20"... clicks? manual says 2 1/2 turns on the high speed to start. Then start leaning but not over 4k rpm first 10 minutes.
Old 06-03-2011, 04:11 AM
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Hey Jim, if you want to do the full blown break in here's the routine I use and its worked about 30 times.

10 minutes at 4,000 rich with throttle 1/4 to 1/3 open
10 minutes at 5,000, now lean HS needle for clean running but not too lean
10 minutes at 6,000, set LS needle for decent idle
10 minutes at 7,000 with bursts to full throttle

Now, peak HS needle and leave it peaked while you finish LS needle for best idle and transition, be willing to sacrifice a little on the idle speed in favor of the best transition. The first time you do this it will seem overly involved but the 2nd time its a a no brainer.
Old 06-03-2011, 04:19 AM
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ORIGINAL: Kostas1

Guys, i've done the maiden flight on my GreatPlanes Cherokee 40 ARF /w Saito FA-80 !!!

HD720p or more, quality....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOrKvF4xNqE[/youtube]


Very nice, perhaps the muffler coming loose affected the flight trim and it moved back and forth with flight attitude? Is that an Arise muffler? Perhaps a little heavy mounted unsupported at the end of the exhaust header tube? Maybe support it near it's end somehow? Good luck, good looking plane and of course the only brand engine to use[8D]

Sincerely, Richard/Club Saito #635
Old 06-03-2011, 07:53 AM
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this is my saito 125 idling under 500 rpm's tack is not in video[link]http://youtu.be/zp0-9z2NpvU[/link]
Old 06-03-2011, 09:59 AM
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Κώστα,

Congratulations on your first flight! That is the model I want to buy, it looks very scale, flies good (I have seen other videos too) and is good for a medium level pilot that I am. Because I am thinking of putting my FA-82b on it, please inform me what propeller do you use, if you had any problems with propeller to ground clearance and if you have issues with vibration, since the airframe is designed for a smaller engine.
You surely had problems with starting as I see on your video, due to the inverted position of the engine. That makes me thing of putting the engine in side position (muffler down of course), but the other question I have is about the cowling: do you use it?Does the 80 engine fit in it, or not?
Old 06-03-2011, 10:42 AM
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Hey there!

I used an APC 12x8 but i will also try a 13x6. Not that the 12x8 is bad, it's good but with the 13x6 i can drop the rpm during idle, a little more.

Ground clearance is not a problem.

About the starting problems......these were due to the fact that the engine is installed inverted and the nose leg is just in front of the glowplug.

So, it's really difficult to use your glowplug starter and that's the reason i am going to buy a remote glowplug starter for my FA-80.

While the engine is inverted....

You won't cut a h3ll lot of the cowl.....it will be a clean installation....i didn't install mine because it was the maiden flight
and i wanted to minimize any chance of overheating...

Your FA-82 will be awesome, i highly suggest it....and ofcourse, don't think about any vibration problems....

Just check my assembly thread here : [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10419268]GreatPlanes Cherokee 40 ARF assembly thread![/link]

I am sure it will help you out!!!

Kostas1
Old 06-03-2011, 05:41 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Hey Jim, if you want to do the full blown break in here's the routine I use and its worked about 30 times.

10 minutes at 4,000 rich with throttle 1/4 to 1/3 open
10 minutes at 5,000, now lean HS needle for clean running but not too lean
10 minutes at 6,000, set LS needle for decent idle
10 minutes at 7,000 with bursts to full throttle

Now, peak HS needle and leave it peaked while you finish LS needle for best idle and transition, be willing to sacrifice a little on the idle speed in favor of the best transition. The first time you do this it will seem overly involved but the 2nd time its a a no brainer.
Thanks Hobbsy that's what I need and these engines are so nice I don't mind spending the time to break them in really well. But now I can't even start it. It fired once then no more. HS valve at 2 1/2 turns and glow plug working, and after quiting the compression is nowhere as much as my other 56 that was cold sitting on a cub in the garage. So I'm thinking valve adjustment? And before that could low speed needle be way off? And if so where should I set it to start? Seems like I messed with it thinking it was the throttle screw in case I wanted to reverse it but then realized it was the LS needle. That has to be why it won't run? I hope? It ran only a little bit last night maybe only a minute. So at this rate 40 minutes is going to take me a week if I can ever get it started again. Thanks for any more trouble shooting.

Thanks, Jim
Old 06-03-2011, 05:58 PM
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Jim, if it has a metal throttle arm set the LS needle even with the end of the carb barrel to start, if its a plasitic arm set the LS about 1/16th" in side the arm. If the LS needle gets too lean it render the HS needle ineffective.
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