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Old 10-04-2011, 12:43 PM
  #21001  
hsukaria
 
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ORIGINAL: jknox

Update on the crashed 125. Determined bent crank and at least one distorted ball bearing in additon to above. Price to repair now almost 90% of new engine. Sadly it looks like it's finished. [img][/img]
ouch!! sorry to hear that.
Old 10-04-2011, 03:21 PM
  #21002  
krop
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Lars,
That tool looks interesting and very useful.
Can you give any details on how it is made - like diameters of the tubing, etc.?
Thank you ahead of time,
Krop
Old 10-04-2011, 03:39 PM
  #21003  
mike early
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must have been a whale of a crash. In dozens of totaled airplanes, I've never bent a crank, although I've stripped teeth off, destroying them that way...
Very sorry for the loss of a great and expensive engine. I buy them used, usually, and the ability to work on them really helps. Now you've taken one apart and see that's easier than you thought.
Old 10-05-2011, 04:23 AM
  #21004  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Yeah mike it seems easy to bend a crank even i can do it.Hoping jknox will post the leftovers of his 125 here and eventually will have enough bits to make my own one.Have run a couple in for mates and they really hum out of all proportion for their size,sound sweet.
Old 10-06-2011, 05:23 PM
  #21005  
clytle374
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Strange discovery today while resetting the valve lash. Right after the exhaust valve closes I have .004", all the rest of the way around I have .002". This does not occur on the intake valve.

Cory
Old 10-06-2011, 06:19 PM
  #21006  
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Cory, I have an extra 1.50 cam and I'll take a picture tomorrow, it might splain.
Old 10-06-2011, 06:58 PM
  #21007  
clytle374
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Cory, I have an extra 1.50 cam and I'll take a picture tomorrow, it might splain.
Not sure how it's going to be visible, but please do.

Thanks
Cory
Old 10-07-2011, 03:31 PM
  #21008  
Hobbsy
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Cory, envision this cam turning CCW as we look at the back of it. The trailing side of the exhaust cam is nearly flat, meaning that the exhaust valve closes much quicker than it opens. Looking at the base circle it appears that the base circle is smaller in diameter right after the closing then is ever so slightly larger from that point until the opening ramp. This area right after the closing has to be where you're seeing the .004". When I replaced the 1.50s cylinder due to ham fisting the intake jam nut I thought the intoake lobe on the cam was worn out since it wasn't sharp pointed like the exhaust lobe. How wrong I was, the new cam is exactly the same. Sharp point on exhaust cam and nearly flat trailing side more visible in picture #2.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:44 PM
  #21009  
clytle374
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Cory, envision this cam turning CCW as we look at the back of it. The trailing side of the exhaust cam is nearly flat, meaning that the exhaust valve closes much quicker than it opens. Looking at the base circle it appears that the base circle is smaller in diameter right after the closing then is ever so slightly larger from that point until the opening ramp. This area right after the closing has to be where you're seeing the .004''. When I replaced the 1.50s cylinder due to ham fisting the intake jam nut I thought the intoake lobe on the cam was worn out since it wasn't sharp pointed like the exhaust lobe. How wrong I was, the new cam is exactly the same. Sharp point on exhaust cam and nearly flat trailing side more visible in picture #2.
Having such a cam grind is not rare by any means. Too bad Saito doesn't tell us where to set them.

This brings up a very interesting point. The Saito instructions don't specify a point where the valve lash is to be set, this leaves a really big range as to where the exhaust valve can be set and still be within spec. Kinda wish I'd checked it in a few more places with different feelers.

Oops, forgot to measure the life while I was there too.

Cory
Old 10-07-2011, 06:08 PM
  #21010  
Hobbsy
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As I mentioned earlier I've been setting mine at .004", at TDC on the compression stroke since my first 1.50 in 1991, it's not an issue to go nutso over, I'm sure there are many that have never even been checked and run fine. They don't change much after the first time.
Old 10-07-2011, 08:43 PM
  #21011  
clytle374
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Mine were set at .002" TDC since it was the easiest way to be sure I was off the lobes. I like to fiddle with such things.

Cory
Old 10-08-2011, 04:10 AM
  #21012  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Dave i see saito have a 56 size control line version,different carby?.Over her i've just seen an ad for a 3d version of the same engine,is it pumped?
Old 10-08-2011, 04:12 AM
  #21013  
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Cory, this was my first toy engine, it only had one valve to set and I think any setting that wouldn't let the pushrod fall out was OK. I was about 13 years old then. It was 200 cu. in., 3.5hp at 350 rpm. A far cry from this one which has about the same HP.
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Old 10-08-2011, 04:25 AM
  #21014  
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G'day OF. No, the 3D version of the 56 simply has a smaller carby throat for better fuel draw. I did see the actual sizes somewhere recently but I don't remember where.

Cheers

Mike in Dubbo (Oz)
Old 10-08-2011, 06:24 AM
  #21015  
rcdude7
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I have a 56F, there is no pump and the venturi is about 1mm smaller, otherwise it is the same engine as the standard R/C 56. They don't sell the 56F in the US for some reason.
Old 10-08-2011, 06:50 AM
  #21016  
clytle374
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Cory, this was my first toy engine, it only had one valve to set and I think any setting that wouldn't let the pushrod fall out was OK. I was about 13 years old then. It was 200 cu. in., 3.5hp at 350 rpm. A far cry from this one which has about the saem HP.
Lucky you, I wanted on of those so bad when I was little. Someday I'll run a crossed a hit and miss cheap. Saw a big one when I was little at a old engine show that had 14' flywheels, fired every 78 seconds under no load. Did get something about 5 years ago, it's a modern day copy of a Lister. Still had to be rebuilt when new due to low attention to detail at the factory. Still waiting for the 'big' power outage. It's not critical either since it's a low(1000) rpm engine. I guess it's just my nature to be always trying to get just a little more out of an engine.

Cory
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:17 AM
  #21017  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Hi mike thanks for the explanation,it was good.For a moment there i had thoughts of fitting the phantom pump to something else.
Old 10-09-2011, 12:04 PM
  #21018  
N1EDM
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Hi Guys,

A while back, I wrote a post about having trouble with getting my muffler through my H9 Cub cowl. As you can see from the picture, my muffler is a little too close to the fuse/cowl and I'll have to cut a lot of this away using the existing exhaust manifold. I know that it looks like I could squeeze by, but that's just the angle that I took the photo at.

Any ideas on extending that manifold perhaps 1/4" or so so that I don't have to chop the daylights out of the cowl?? The engine is a Saito .82 - I put the extra power in there so that I could use the Cub on floats.

C'mon, fellow geniuses.... I could use an idea or two here...

Bob
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:51 PM
  #21019  
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Rotate your engine and mount maybe 15 degrees or so CCW and the muffler will likely move outboard enough to clear the cowl. Sounds drastic, but the engine will still be in the cowl and no one will notice it rotated Just drill four new holes and put in "T" nuts and your ready to go. Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard
Old 10-09-2011, 01:10 PM
  #21020  
Rudolph Hart
 
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You might find it easier to use a short piece of flex pipe and leave the muffler off,save you cutting the cowl at all.
Old 10-09-2011, 01:29 PM
  #21021  
N1EDM
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Thanks, Spaceworm and OF. Actually, the original engine was already rotated but I was going to have to cut away way too much of the cowl - that's why I made the mount totally inverted instead of slanted.

I'll look into that flex pipe, but is there a way to tap the pressure off if it for the tank, OF? I'm not really comfortable with leaving the muffler off, due to noise restrictions at our field.

Bob
Old 10-09-2011, 03:30 PM
  #21022  
charlie1960
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Maybe something like this.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI8075C

Looks like its a bit longer.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:31 PM
  #21023  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

Hi Guys,

A while back, I wrote a post about having trouble with getting my muffler through my H9 Cub cowl. As you can see from the picture, my muffler is a little too close to the fuse/cowl and I'll have to cut a lot of this away using the existing exhaust manifold. I know that it looks like I could squeeze by, but that's just the angle that I took the photo at.

Any ideas on extending that manifold perhaps 1/4'' or so so that I don't have to chop the daylights out of the cowl?? The engine is a Saito .82 - I put the extra power in there so that I could use the Cub on floats.

C'mon, fellow geniuses.... I could use an idea or two here...

Bob
Go with a Turboheader and ask them to make you a small extension.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:45 PM
  #21024  
KenD
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Thank you! I have just returned from two weeks of rest and relaxation. Toured northern New York, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:52 PM
  #21025  
KenD
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No sandbagging here, Ijust stumbled across this forum a couple of months ago.
Amazing the number of messages that accumulate while a person is away. I'll be reading for the rest of the evening!


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