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Old 11-27-2011, 08:45 PM
  #21326  
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Good job of adjusting the engine. Yeah one should always use a test stand first. Then if you put it in the plane and it doesn't work, and you try it on the stand again and it still works ok, you know where the problem is for sure then.

Old 11-28-2011, 04:56 AM
  #21327  
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Is your tank height in relation to the carby the same in both setups? bet you it ain't
Old 11-28-2011, 05:01 AM
  #21328  
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I was thinking the same thing.
Old 11-28-2011, 02:00 PM
  #21329  
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria


ORIGINAL: cubfloater

My friend has a H9 Mustang with a Saito 125 on it and tried an 18-6 and I think a 15-7 and neither would fly the plane fast enough he thought. Which way should he go to get more speed? Oh and he was getting 8200 rpm with the 18-6. And he was using Master Airscrew. I told him first thing I'd try is an APC. That's all I use on my Saitos. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,'
Jim
I have been using an 18x6 on a Saito 180. So, it sounds like he should use a smaller prop. For more speed, he needs to go smaller diameter and higher pitch. I don't know exact numbers for a 125, never owned one, sorry.
So is it correct to assume basically that smaller diameter will give you more rpm and more pitch, more speed? Of course you dont' want to over run the engine I know and burn it up. Like I have a Wild Thing 40 plans built fun fly type plane that has an OS 46 on it and I'm using a 10 or 11X4 to keep it slow because it's built light, but it's reatively fast I guess because of the 46 size engine on a 40 size plane?
Old 11-28-2011, 02:04 PM
  #21330  
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And thanks for the replies by the way. You guys are great!

Jim
Old 11-28-2011, 03:47 PM
  #21331  
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ORIGINAL: cubfloater


ORIGINAL: hsukaria


ORIGINAL: cubfloater

My friend has a H9 Mustang with a Saito 125 on it and tried an 18-6 and I think a 15-7 and neither would fly the plane fast enough he thought. Which way should he go to get more speed? Oh and he was getting 8200 rpm with the 18-6. And he was using Master Airscrew. I told him first thing I'd try is an APC. That's all I use on my Saitos. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,'
Jim
I have been using an 18x6 on a Saito 180. So, it sounds like he should use a smaller prop. For more speed, he needs to go smaller diameter and higher pitch. I don't know exact numbers for a 125, never owned one, sorry.
So is it correct to assume basically that smaller diameter will give you more rpm and more pitch, more speed? Of course you dont' want to over run the engine I know and burn it up. Like I have a Wild Thing 40 plans built fun fly type plane that has an OS 46 on it and I'm using a 10 or 11X4 to keep it slow because it's built light, but it's reatively fast I guess because of the 46 size engine on a 40 size plane?
I'm not the most expert about this subject. But put a 10x8 on your Wild Thing and hang on to your socks!!
Old 11-28-2011, 05:40 PM
  #21332  
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how do I remove prop nut? Saito 56 on a GP Cherokee polished alum spinner with blue loctite it's just spinning the crank while i hold the prop. Use a little heat? Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Jim
Old 11-28-2011, 06:01 PM
  #21333  
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Can you slip the cowl back and get something on the drive? Maybe plug the exhaust with your finger for extra resistance?

Cory
Old 11-28-2011, 06:10 PM
  #21334  
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Heat may soften the blue Loctite?
Old 11-28-2011, 06:17 PM
  #21335  
N1EDM
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Can you remove the glow plug? This idea has been around for a while, so I can't take credit for it, just passing it along.

Remove the glow plug. Then, get some string or thin twine that can be pushed into the glow plug hole. Cram in as much as you can. Use the softest line that you can get, and leave a 'tail' outside the glow plug hole. This should let you bear against the piston and head and remove the screw. Go gently and use the best allen wrench you can on that spinner screw. This is no time to gurn that socket. And use GENTLE pressure!! Avoid risk of damage to the piston and head.

Remove the nose cone, replace the screw (probably avaliable from Home Depot), and remove the string. The old screw might have too much Loctite to clean off. Chase the threads on the prop nut to clean out any other residual Loctite. It's probably a 10-24 thread but don't take my word for it. It could also be a 10-32 thread.

Hint: some cheap twine will leave 'hairs' behind which could require you to disassemble the engine to clean out... Use good twine (and not thread) to avoid that.

Hint #2: I've never had a metal spinner come off, and I've never used Loctite on that screw, though I make sure it is fastened down securely.

Hmmmm, using W8YE's idea about using heat to soften the loctite isn't a bad idea either. Use Cotton twine, by the way, not synthetic. If you use heat, you run the risk of melting the twine if you go too far with the heat gun. That won't be good inside the engine cylinder. I didn't see W8YE's post until I posted mine. We must have been burning the ether at the same time writing our responses.

In an extreme situation, you can get a piston locking tool from Tower http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATDA&P=7 that might help, but my thinking is that this won't be necessary. If you do wind up using the tool, remember that word "GENTLY".

Let us know how this works out for you,

Bob
Old 11-28-2011, 06:31 PM
  #21336  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

Can you remove the glow plug? This idea has been around for a while, so I can't take credit for it, just passing it along.

Remove the glow plug. Then, get some string or thin twine that can be pushed into the glow plug hole. Cram in as much as you can. Use the softest line that you can get, and leave a 'tail' outside the glow plug hole. This should let you bear against the piston and head and remove the screw. Go gently and use the best allen wrench you can on that spinner screw. This is no time to gurn that socket. And use GENTLE pressure!! Avoid risk of damage to the piston and head.

Remove the nose cone, replace the screw (probably avaliable from Home Depot), and remove the string. The old screw might have too much Loctite to clean off. Chase the threads on the prop nut to clean out any other residual Loctite. It's probably a 10-24 thread but don't take my word for it. It could also be a 10-32 thread.

Hint: some cheap twine will leave 'hairs' behind which could require you to disassemble the engine to clean out... Use good twine (and not thread) to avoid that.

Hint #2: I've never had a metal spinner come off, and I've never used Loctite on that screw, though I make sure it is fastened down securely.

Hmmmm, using W8YE's idea about using heat to soften the loctite isn't a bad idea either. Use Cotton twine, by the way, not synthetic. If you use heat, you run the risk of melting the twine if you go too far with the heat gun. That won't be good inside the engine cylinder. I didn't see W8YE's post until I posted mine. We must have been burning the ether at the same time writing our responses.

In an extreme situation, you can get a piston locking tool from Tower http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATDA&P=7 that might help, but my thinking is that this won't be necessary. If you do wind up using the tool, remember that word ''GENTLY''.

Let us know how this works out for you,

Bob
Filling the cylinder with after-run oil and then re-installing the glow plug would work better than string. The hydraulic lock will be much more positive. Applying heat to the loc-tite will definitely help.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:00 PM
  #21337  
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It's the prop nut not the spinner screw. the spinner is off. That long prop nut that has threads in the in of it that the spinner screw goes in on the prop shaft is what is glued on. I'd never loctite a spinner screw. There was only room for the prop nut (adapter) under the spinner so I couldn' use a lock nut as I usually do, that's why I locktited it. So kickback wouldn't loosen the nut. Someone iin another post said to uses nylon rope in the cylinder as a piston stop. I'll try that and a little heat. And that prop nut (adapter) was so long that I had to cut down the spinner screw so it would go all the way in.

Thanks,
Jim
Old 11-28-2011, 07:06 PM
  #21338  
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Spinners often present real problems when it comes to adapting one to your engine.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:09 PM
  #21339  
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In that case you should be able to get enough heat to breakdown removable thread lock, I thought it was the spinner screw that was stuck.

Cory
Old 11-28-2011, 08:17 PM
  #21340  
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I would like to join the Saito club.  I have two 72's and one 56.  What number are we up to?  Regards, Keith
Old 11-28-2011, 09:19 PM
  #21341  
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Heat. Definitely use the heat.

Jim[8D]
Old 11-28-2011, 10:12 PM
  #21342  
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HI Cubfloater, the piston stop was what I was describing as well - I just used twine instead of nylon rope.

If you are having trouble with length, you might consider an Ultimate-shaped spinner. Then you can use both nuts to hold the prop on. That's what I needed that for a project I had.

If you go to Dave Brown Products ( www.dbproducts.com ) you can buy one of their Ultimate spinners and they will even cut it for your specific prop.

Just my $.02

Bob
Old 11-29-2011, 05:00 AM
  #21343  
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Jim, this spinner would cure your problem but appears to only come in the 2.5" size, it used to come in 1.5 and 1.75 also. Hobby-Lobby seems to be leanning more and more toward only vending electric junk.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/2_1_2_alu...r_995_prd1.htm
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:44 AM
  #21344  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Jim, this spinner would cure your problem but appears to only come in the 2.5'' size, it used to come in 1.5 and 1.75 also. Hobby-Lobby seems to be leanning more and more toward only vending electric junk.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/2_1_2_alu...r_995_prd1.htm
Look here.
http://www.kavanrc.com/cgi-bin/dpsma...79E.html?E+Kav
John
Old 11-29-2011, 09:33 AM
  #21345  
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Thanks John, and here are the sizes missing from H-L

http://www.kavanrc.com/cgi-bin/dpsma...79E.html?E+Kav

Woops, sorry, I see you got fooled the same as I did. Just click Spinners to the left and then Next Page Results.
Old 11-29-2011, 10:16 AM
  #21346  
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

HI Cubfloater, the piston stop was what I was describing as well - I just used twine instead of nylon rope.

If you are having trouble with length, you might consider an Ultimate-shaped spinner. Then you can use both nuts to hold the prop on. That's what I needed that for a project I had.

If you go to Dave Brown Products ( www.dbproducts.com ) you can buy one of their Ultimate spinners and they will even cut it for your specific prop.

Just my $.02

Bob
Thanks, yes I had all kind of trouble getting it to work. It's the first spinner I ever put on a Saito and I think I even had to use two prop washers in addtion to the nut to get it to work and then I had to cut down the spinner screw as it was too long. So I'll check it out. I guess if I could just use the original nuts and then a double threaded spacer for the spinner screw to go into or maybe that is too simple or not available. Like I said my first spinner experience with a Saito or any 4 stroke for that matter. Got several of them and only used factory nut and locknut to be sure they didn't come off.
Old 11-29-2011, 11:07 AM
  #21347  
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This is typical spinner experience no matter what engine.

The best thing to do is use a size larger or longer style spinner. It makes adapting them more simple.
Old 11-29-2011, 03:46 PM
  #21348  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

This is typical spinner experience no matter what engine.

The best thing to do is use a size larger or longer style spinner. It makes adapting them more simple.
I hope you didn't think I was saying anything about Saitos (I love them) or other 4 strokes it's just that I didn't ever seem to have the same issue with the 2 strokes. But of course they were all plastic which can't be used on a 4 stroke. And I just assumed that you just buy the appropriate size and it would fit. I'll check some of the others to see what works. Thanks for all the responses.

Jim
Old 11-29-2011, 05:19 PM
  #21349  
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I'm surprised that you had to use two washers. What size prop are you running? It sounds like a narrow pitch. Just curious (or is that nosey?? )

Bob
Old 11-29-2011, 09:29 PM
  #21350  
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ORIGINAL: cubfloater


ORIGINAL: w8ye

This is typical spinner experience no matter what engine.

The best thing to do is use a size larger or longer style spinner. It makes adapting them more simple.
I hope you didn't think I was saying anything about Saitos (I love them) or other 4 strokes it's just that I didn't ever seem to have the same issue with the 2 strokes. But of course they were all plastic which can't be used on a 4 stroke. And I just assumed that you just buy the appropriate size and it would fit. I'll check some of the others to see what works. Thanks for all the responses.

Jim
Well, it more or less does work that way if you have a OS 46AX with a 10-7 prop and a 2 1/2" spinner. It is just a matter of install it and fly.

But on a four stroke, you have to learn by experience what size spinners are minimum size for which engine and what tricks you are going to need to play to get it to work.

I bought a Saito 62 Golden Knight from a guy on here that sold the engine because the mufflers kept breaking off. He sent a spinner along with the engine. It wasn't cut out for the prop and had been forced over the blades. That is where the vibrations were coming from that was breakinng the muffler manifolds.

I''ve been using that Saito 62 every time I go flying for three years and have never done anything to it and never had any muffler problems. I put a new spinner on it that was filed out to fit the 13 X 6 prop.


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