Welcome to Club SAITO !
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I went and looked in the current manual and I cannot find anything about the 2/5ths & 1/5ths bit?
I went and looked in the current manual and I cannot find anything about the 2/5ths & 1/5ths bit?
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks for that.I remember FNQ stating that we seem to get different info here regarding saito engines and who knows what else.I'll look at horizon's site and see if i can find what you are referring to.May even take a photo of the page with diagram and post it.Thanks again.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I've seen several new ones seize at the connecting rod on the crank pin. I just free'd them up and they ran fine. I never replaced any parts. It takes a little working with the rod to get it going.
I've seen several new ones seize at the connecting rod on the crank pin. I just free'd them up and they ran fine. I never replaced any parts. It takes a little working with the rod to get it going.
Thank you....................... it would have voided the SAITO warranty if I had tried it myself. You said that you've seen several of these engines seize at the connecting rod............. any good reason why it should happen in the first place ? Is it poor quality control ? I have eight Saito engines and never had any problems. Any advice as to test bench a new SAITO FG20CC GAS engne ?
Charles
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The FG20's operating characteristics are somewhat different from a FA125 though many parts will interchange.
My experience is that the original Saito ignition with the big inductive timing pickup is nothing but trouble. I changed mine out to the RCEXL ignition.
In spite of the carb having a built in pump, it is very weak and the fuel tank needs to be as close to the carb as possible.
My experience is that the original Saito ignition with the big inductive timing pickup is nothing but trouble. I changed mine out to the RCEXL ignition.
In spite of the carb having a built in pump, it is very weak and the fuel tank needs to be as close to the carb as possible.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello W8YE,
recently purchased a Cline P.C.F.S. with intentions of trying it with a FG20. Do you think it's a good match?
T-man49 in Al
Saito 723
recently purchased a Cline P.C.F.S. with intentions of trying it with a FG20. Do you think it's a good match?
T-man49 in Al
Saito 723
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
it'll work. i hope it helps the fuel draw characteristics of the FG20
You will have to use silicone tubing at the muffler and then before you get to the tank. There's going to have to be a gasoline compatable check valve in the line. and you'll need a 125 muffler.
You will have to use silicone tubing at the muffler and then before you get to the tank. There's going to have to be a gasoline compatable check valve in the line. and you'll need a 125 muffler.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
It's runing too lean and about to backfire and throw the prop
It's runing too lean and about to backfire and throw the prop
I think I found out why I'm having trouble setting the needles on my 1.25. Yesterday I tried to start my PT-26 at the field (Saito 1.20) and the throttle would not move. I found what I thought was the problem, the servo. Today I changed the servo for a new one and I had the same condition. I swapped in a new receiver, same result. More tail chasing. I have two 9C Futaba Tx's. I use one for 72 MHz and the one for the PT-26 has a 2.4 GHz module. I swapped Tx's, using the 72 MHz with the 2.4 module in it. Voila! The original radio's throttle gimbal is not working. I'm assuming it's a pot. I've had it six years. Time for a new one.
The problem with the throttle stick on the Tx is probably the reason I've had trouble tuning the 1.20 on the PT-26 before, and the reason I can't get the 1.25 right. I also had some (what I believe now) power issues with the 1.60 twin on my Cub. I think it all traces back to the throttle gimbal not giving me what I ask for.
Bob
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Bob,
I have a 9C too, and had pots replaced for the elevator and aileron. I got it done at Radio South. You could swap modes and see if the control surfaces don't center.
I have a 9C too, and had pots replaced for the elevator and aileron. I got it done at Radio South. You could swap modes and see if the control surfaces don't center.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
The FG20's operating characteristics are somewhat different from a FA125 though many parts will interchange.
My experience is that the original Saito ignition with the big inductive timing pickup is nothing but trouble. I changed mine out to the RCEXL ignition.
In spite of the carb having a built in pump, it is very weak and the fuel tank needs to be as close to the carb as possible.
The FG20's operating characteristics are somewhat different from a FA125 though many parts will interchange.
My experience is that the original Saito ignition with the big inductive timing pickup is nothing but trouble. I changed mine out to the RCEXL ignition.
In spite of the carb having a built in pump, it is very weak and the fuel tank needs to be as close to the carb as possible.
Thanks for your comment re SAITO FG20cc................i'll probably will exchange the ignition with the RCEXL one. After reading so many comments (negative) about this engine, I feel i made a bad choice.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye and blw,
Just in case it looks like I know what I'm doing, read to this bonehead move.
After salivating over a Hitec Aurora 9 channel, I decided to go back and look one more time at my 9C. I thought that maybe the throttle end points were screwed up. I turned the Tx on and there it was. I had a different A/C selected. When I changed to the PT-26, everything was good. Talk about a dumb-***** move.
Now I have to tell my buddy what I did and he'll lecture me on JR's method of preventing that from happening.
Bob
Just in case it looks like I know what I'm doing, read to this bonehead move.
After salivating over a Hitec Aurora 9 channel, I decided to go back and look one more time at my 9C. I thought that maybe the throttle end points were screwed up. I turned the Tx on and there it was. I had a different A/C selected. When I changed to the PT-26, everything was good. Talk about a dumb-***** move.
Now I have to tell my buddy what I did and he'll lecture me on JR's method of preventing that from happening.
Bob
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I'm building a Wingspan 1/12th B17 and am looking into engines for it. I'd rather have gasoline engines for the better fuel efficiency and reliability, and am looking at the Saito 14 cc gassers. I have run Saito 1.25 and .72 glow engines and find them a good engine. Anything larger than the 14 cc gassers would be too much power. Another option is four .72 glow, but having experienced the excitement of an engine out condition on a glow twin, I would rather go with gas engines. Anyone have any ideas and/or experience with the 14 cc gassers? Thanks, Lee
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: retransit
w8ye and blw,
Just in case it looks like I know what I'm doing, read to this bonehead move.
After salivating over a Hitec Aurora 9 channel, I decided to go back and look one more time at my 9C. I thought that maybe the throttle end points were screwed up. I turned the Tx on and there it was. I had a different A/C selected. When I changed to the PT-26, everything was good. Talk about a dumb-***** move.
Now I have to tell my buddy what I did and he'll lecture me on JR's method of preventing that from happening.
Bob
w8ye and blw,
Just in case it looks like I know what I'm doing, read to this bonehead move.
After salivating over a Hitec Aurora 9 channel, I decided to go back and look one more time at my 9C. I thought that maybe the throttle end points were screwed up. I turned the Tx on and there it was. I had a different A/C selected. When I changed to the PT-26, everything was good. Talk about a dumb-***** move.
Now I have to tell my buddy what I did and he'll lecture me on JR's method of preventing that from happening.
Bob
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello saito fans. I feel that saito have the most wonderful sound and torque vs the other engines out there
my latest adquisition is an FG30 which I love, but have difficulties carburating the engine.
any suggestions or similar experiences?
my latest adquisition is an FG30 which I love, but have difficulties carburating the engine.
any suggestions or similar experiences?
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I think it is a relevent point here too,given the amount of comment about the price of good glo fuel.Here in australia west we pay about 160 to 200 bucks for five litres,close to your gallon.I fly nitro glo because the engine sounds good
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Here's the USA manual for the Saito 182
http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAIT...oke_Manual.pdf
Here's the USA manual for the Saito 182
http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAIT...oke_Manual.pdf
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Old Fart
I think it is a relevent point here too,given the amount of comment about the price of good glo fuel.Here in australia west we pay about 160 to 200 bucks for five litres,close to your gallon.I fly nitro glo because the engine sounds good
I think it is a relevent point here too,given the amount of comment about the price of good glo fuel.Here in australia west we pay about 160 to 200 bucks for five litres,close to your gallon.I fly nitro glo because the engine sounds good
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I guess it is location matters when it comes to glow fuel costs. Here in Texas in the Dallas Fort Worth Metroplex area the glow fuel costs are quite reasonable. The prices have gone up a little since this pic was taken maybe $1.25 US or so. This is for 0%, 5%, 10% and 15% glow fuel. But we still have some hobby shops that charge much higher prices though. Plus some areas in the US the LHS charge more for glow fuel than Garthwood has to pay in Canada too.
So where the glow fuel costs are less, then using gasoline as a fuel is less important. But in a locale where glow fuel costs are high, then using gasoline as a fuel become a lot more attractive. The trick is gasoline might be cheaper, but the high quality oil you use to mix with it can be very expensive still.So one needs to factor in the oil in the fuel costs as well. But they are slowly making smaller and smaller gasoline spark ignition engines, the 8cc and 15cc engines are coming out soon. But 17cc, 18cc and 20cc engines are out there at this time. Where they have more or less converted a glow engine into a gasoline engine, you need to be careful and all of these are using a bushed connecting rod and it needs a lot more oil to keep it lubricated. The industrial or utlitlity style of gasoline engines generally use needle bearings on the connecting rod so that they can run with less oil mixed with the fuel.
So where the glow fuel costs are less, then using gasoline as a fuel is less important. But in a locale where glow fuel costs are high, then using gasoline as a fuel become a lot more attractive. The trick is gasoline might be cheaper, but the high quality oil you use to mix with it can be very expensive still.So one needs to factor in the oil in the fuel costs as well. But they are slowly making smaller and smaller gasoline spark ignition engines, the 8cc and 15cc engines are coming out soon. But 17cc, 18cc and 20cc engines are out there at this time. Where they have more or less converted a glow engine into a gasoline engine, you need to be careful and all of these are using a bushed connecting rod and it needs a lot more oil to keep it lubricated. The industrial or utlitlity style of gasoline engines generally use needle bearings on the connecting rod so that they can run with less oil mixed with the fuel.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I think I've determined how to accurately verify correct timing in my 125. I used an aluminum tube 8-9" long that fits snug inside tappet tube. Inserted solid pushrod into aluminum tube that fits snug into timing hole in cam. Removed play between pushrod and ID of aluminum tube with thin masking tape wrapped around pushrod to center pushrod in aluminum tube. Hold cam in place with homemade tool as cam is lowered and bolts threaded finger tight. Now rock crank back and forth and verify the slight play that is left is equal to both sides of 12:00. Should be accurate I think. Now, I'm sure I'm far from the first to do this, but I searched a fair bit online and couldn't find a better method. For what it's worth.