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Old 06-20-2012, 03:28 PM
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ORIGINAL: retransit

...

It amazes me sometimes at what things used to cost.

Bob
Most people earn at least 10 times now than they did for equal work "back then". At that rate, that $1.50 for a quart of fuel would be $60.00 a gallon now. I pay less than $20.00 a gallon for much better fuel now.[8D] And, do you remember what Kraft radios cost "back then"?
Old 06-20-2012, 03:43 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Ross, the Saito 1.00 twin is still designated as ABC and as near as I can find it is the only one designated so. Strange isn't it.

Hi Dave. I was re-reading Clarence Lee's review of the FA-130T and he referred it as being ABC. Is this the case? And, then, does that mean the FA-65 cylinders, from which the 130T is made are ABC also? Peter Chinn's writeup of the FA-65 suggest so. Now I am confused.

Vbr, Richard
Old 06-20-2012, 04:50 PM
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Is this the Velocity Stack number SAI18093 for the FA-120?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...oo-pp-SAI18093
Old 06-20-2012, 04:57 PM
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*
Here's another ABC, the 60T. This one must be the smoothest as it has the two throw crank...

FA 130T?? No longer produced?

Regards RossG
radial1951
_____________

ORIGINAL: spaceworm

ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Ross, the Saito 1.00 twin is still designated as ABC and as near as I can find it is the only one designated so. Strange isn't it.

Hi Dave. I was re-reading Clarence Lee's review of the FA-130T and he referred it as being ABC. Is this the case? And, then, does that mean the FA-65 cylinders, from which the 130T is made are ABC also? Peter Chinn's writeup of the FA-65 suggest so. Now I am confused.

Vbr, Richard
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:01 PM
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Well, it is Murphy's law. Trying to pull that loop to avoid the flooding of my 100 I pulled the line that is supposed to go to the atmosphere, the one comming out of the backplate. I really don't want to take the cowling out if I don't have to.<div>I tried to put it back but due to the awkward position without taking the cowling out I couldn't.
<div>How important is that line? If its only ventilation my newbie logic tells me the line is only an extension. Can I leave it without that line?</div></div>
Old 06-20-2012, 05:09 PM
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*
Is that the fitting to drain the excess oil from the crankcase? It could get pretty messy in the cowl without a tube to the outside...

Regards RossG
radial1951
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ORIGINAL: lopflyers

Well, it is Murphy's law. Trying to pull that loop to avoid the flooding of my 100 I pulled the line that is supposed to go to the atmosphere, the one comming out of the backplate. I really don't want to take the cowling out if I don't have to.<div>I tried to put it back but due to the awkward position without taking the cowling out I couldn't.
<div>How important is that line? If its only ventilation my newbie logic tells me the line is only an extension. Can I leave it without that line?</div></div>
Old 06-20-2012, 05:18 PM
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[:'(]Ok, I guess I'll have to take the #%£€ cowling off. I'll wait for a rainy windy nasty day.
Old 06-20-2012, 05:30 PM
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I understand what you're saying, but you have to understand what I said. That is the only box I own from the only 1.20 I ever bought new. I have one other version of the same engine bought without a box and a couple of 120S's without boxes.

Bob
Old 06-20-2012, 06:16 PM
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Lofplyers, your problem with the vent line is one of the main reason I grabbed a set of hemostats from a supply house, (Princess Auto up here in Canada.) I think Harbor Freight sells them, as well. Work wonders on stuff like that.

The vent line should be as short as possible to exit the cowl into clean air so that waste oil and other contaminants don't blow around inside the cowl. The reason it needs to be short is so that it can expel whatever is in the line rather than suck it back in when the piston is rising, (case goes negative pressure). On one of mine I had to run a line longer than comfortable to reach an area that would not draw any oil back towards and inside the cowl. To get around that problem I was able to stretch a short silicone line enough to fit a larger diameter plastic tube. It seems to allow oil flow without drawback.

If the line is too long you can also create enough restriction so that as the case pressure rises it cannot easily balance out. On my first 4-stroke installation, (Saito 91) I found it to be quite the learning experience and with too long a tube I noticed oil would soon find other exits. In my case it was the front bearing and cam housing to case flange.
Old 06-20-2012, 09:36 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Stainless would not last nearly as long as the HardChrome bearings plus Boca is a sponsor of this site. And I honor that.
This is completely not true! Stainless steel bearings are hardened to the same Rockwell range as all bearings and will last just as long, if not longer due to no rusting. Also, there are no hard chrome bearings available for our hobby. Hard chrome bearing surfaces are usually on cam faces and plain bearing surfaces on aluminum. Chrome steel bearings are made from a moderate chrome content steel. Stainless steel has a LOT more chrome in the mix.
Old 06-20-2012, 09:46 PM
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40oz is nothing for these engines. That is only 4 10oz tanks. As suggested, use an OS F plug, or a Thunderbolt long.

ORIGINAL: R/C Lee

Having a little trouble here. I have a new Saito .72 that I'm having trouble breaking in. I've run around 40 ounces of fuel through it, mounted on a stand, but it still won't hold an idle. I've tried adjusting the idle screw, high speed needle, everything per the manual, but to no avail. I had no trouble breaking in an earlier Saito 1.20, but this .72 has me stumped. Do I need to run more fuel through it until it holds an idle; if so, how much? I've broken in OS 4-strokes and haven't had this trouble. Is the problem with this engine, or the .72 design, or that it just needs more break-in time? I will be putting four .72's on a new Wingspan B17 and want to make sure they are reliable. At this point, I'm thinking of going with OS engines, but I'd rather not. Any advice? Thanks, Lee
Old 06-21-2012, 04:21 AM
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Do you have anything more factual than your say so, so I can change my mind. Thanks
Old 06-21-2012, 04:22 AM
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Thunderbolt long? never heard of it. Did a search. It has an idler bar?
Old 06-21-2012, 05:09 AM
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Sorry Hobbsy,
I called the rep. At Boca and asked him after your response and the fact that they list their chrome bearings for less than their stainless steal bearings. He stated the same thing. They offer 5 bearing sets for the Satio 72. An OEM equvelant replacement that is the chrome one. A stainless steal set, a high performance stainless steal set, a ceramic set, and a high performance ceramic set. And I listed them in order of cheapest to most costly.<br type="_moz" />
Old 06-21-2012, 05:28 AM
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No apology needed, I'm only 70 so I can still learn, did you talk to Jason Flansbaum, he has a british accent and is the only guy I've ever talked to there. Its a bit of irony that other than the set of ceramic bearings I installed in my Fox .50 Diesel conversion I've only bought bearings for other peoples engines.

PS, about a week ago I successfully moved those ceramic bearings to a newer Fox crank case without dinging them. I oughta git a attaboy.
Old 06-21-2012, 06:18 AM
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Nope it was not Jason.

Great job on the bearing transfer. With experience come greater craftsmenship. And you have 10 years on me. That is probably why I keep asking the experts. A lot of them here and I am great full for each of them, yourself included.

The reason I was looking for bearings is because the Saito 72 I recently got from a swap meet at a float fly kept getting to hot, even on the test stand. The case was almost as hot as the top of the head. When I pulled it apart I was surprissed it ran at all what with all the rust in the bearings. A testament to Saito. For about 3 min. it ran perfectly. Then it would get to hot for me to allow it to continue. I am glad none of the bearing bits got into the piston cylinder area for they are still perfectly smooth. I ordered from Boca the stainless steal set. <br type="_moz" />
Old 06-21-2012, 11:14 AM
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RJ, here are a couple of tricks I had done to get a Saito .65 into my Alpha 60, note countersunk mounting in left mount. Right mount is shaped for HS needle clearance and requires an extension.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:07 PM
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Lofplyers, your problem with the vent line is one of the main reason I grabbed a set of hemostats from a supply house, (Princess Auto up here in Canada.) I think Harbor Freight sells them, as well. Work wonders on stuff like that.

The vent line should be as short as possible to exit the cowl into clean air so that waste oil and other contaminants don't blow around inside the cowl. The reason it needs to be short is so that it can expel whatever is in the line rather than suck it back in when the piston is rising, (case goes negative pressure). On one of mine I had to run a line longer than comfortable to reach an area that would not draw any oil back towards and inside the cowl. To get around that problem I was able to stretch a short silicone line enough to fit a larger diameter plastic tube. It seems to allow oil flow without drawback.

If the line is too long you can also create enough restriction so that as the case pressure rises it cannot easily balance out. On my first 4-stroke installation, (Saito 91) I found it to be quite the learning experience and with too long a tube I noticed oil would soon find other exits. In my case it was the front bearing and cam housing to case flange.
Yipiiii, I did exactly that and managed to do it without taking the cowling off. I fitted a silicone tube that comes out of the cowling.
<br type="_moz" />
Old 06-21-2012, 04:13 PM
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I have the engine disassembled. The bearings look a bit dirty, they will be replaced and I'm adding a velocity stack. Is there anything I should check before I put it back together?
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:49 PM
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Hobbsy,
I did something very similar to your mount. Because the holes were too close together by about 3/8", I opened the mount holes (against the firewall) to a larger size being careful not to go to big and damage the structural integrity. This allowed me to spread the mount out a bit wider. I also measured and marked the mounting rail for the engine hold-down bolts and drilled those to a bit larger size to give them a chance to spread a bit further.
After that, I found that the throttle "barrel" was binding against the inside corner of the mount (see photo) so Iground that down to allow just enough clearance for it to move freely. As the throttle moves, the "barrel" moves out or in and it had no room to move out. Affer grinding that corner there's enough room now.
I hope these pictures help explain what Idid.
The template called for an angled mount as you can see in the pictures. Trial fit of the cowling shows a near perfect fit.

Can hardly wait to get this beauty in the air. Electrics are installed but, fuel system remains.

RJ
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:04 PM
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Try using large size silicone tubing on the breather rather than the std. medium size. That seems to work pretty good for me. On reassembly it would be a good idea to replace the o-ring that goes onto the intake manifold and into the head. If you have a whole new engine gasket set the o-ring for the head is in a separate bag and marked Viton. (high temp o-ring)

Ernie Misner
Old 06-22-2012, 02:28 PM
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Hobbsy,
After installing the high speed needle Ifound that Ineeded to do the same thing you did. I removed the mount on that side and gound it down to allow it to clear enough to rotate freely. I drilled a tiny hole in the side of the fuselage to allow a short adjusting tool to fit. It's all mounted up now and works fine.
Iused the Turboheader you sent along with the engine (thanks again) as the stock muffler was not angled properly. I could have installed a 90 deg manifold but. since the Turboheader was already at 90 deg. ..... It's a bit short of exiting the cowl so Iadded a Dubro exhaust deflector to bring it outside the cowl. It's a very nice fit.
With a little effort, all is working out fine.

RJ
Old 06-22-2012, 06:48 PM
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RJ, I was puzzling over those pictures I posted above and was wondering why I had to grind that mount and countersink that bolt then I remebered, I did that because I had a 1.25 in there for a while. I never flew it with the 1.25 but I'm going to install the .65. I know somebody's going chastise me and say the .65 is not powerful but it fly like it was made for it. The alpha 60 flies smooth and easy.
Old 06-22-2012, 08:50 PM
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After flying until dark yesterday (almost 9 pm), about 7 of us went for a late supper. We had a good discussion about 4 strokes and the .65 Saito received high marks along with the .82. General concensus was that Saito is the best brand on the market.

Ireceived my genuine Saito glass body fuel filter today ( )and Ihave it installed with fuel line running to the engine. It looks really neat. Too bad it will be hidden by the cowl as it's a good looking unit.

I need to install the throttle servo and the gas tank and she should be ready to fire up.

RJ
Old 06-23-2012, 08:20 PM
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Well, my attempt at running this beautiful engine (FA-80) was a failure. The ARF I've installed it in must have set on the shelf for years because all of the fuel tubing in the tank fell apart after filling the tank. It leaked like a sieve. So, no fuel, no fire.
I've replumbed the tank with good tubing and will try again tomorrow. I'm attempting to run a 3 tube system in this tank ...1) fill and empty: 2) fuel to carb; 3) exhaust air pressure. I'm using 2 clunks ...one for fuel feed and one for fill/empty.

I don't want to remove the cowl unless the engine needs attention so, I'm using a fuel Dot and remote glow igniter. Idon't want any unnecessary holes in the cowl and the plug is in an awkward position for this model.

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