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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 06-25-2012, 08:04 PM
  #22326  
rowdyjoe
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

Rustoleum Barbeque paint. It comes in flat black & flat sisver. Good for 1200*F

For the grill or the meat?

Old 06-26-2012, 05:32 AM
  #22327  
Cougar429
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Rowdyjoe, for the grill it would be in a spray can. The meat would need to have it brushed on

On the subject of paints, anyone have an idea what would work good for the case and cylinder, (ala GK)? Thinking some of my tightly cowled motors could use better heat transfer on these hot summer days.
Old 06-26-2012, 06:40 AM
  #22328  
SrTelemaster150
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429


On the subject of paints, anyone have an idea what would work good for the case and cylinder, (ala GK)? Thinking some of my tightly cowled motors could use better heat transfer on these hot summer days.

I've used the Rustoleum BBQ paint on everything from motorcycle cases/cylinders to headers. The flat silver keeps a fresh bead blasted aluminum color. Flat black is a better heat disapater than the heavy gloss black used on the GK engines.

The key W/ANY engiene paint is getting a good bond to the metal. Bead blasting accomplishes that but it is not practcle unless the engine is torn down completely. If you do go W/bead blasting, plug ALL of the tapped screw holes to keep media out of them. I use the OEM screws W/duct tape over the heads to keep the black oxide finish. Also, bake the paint in the oven @ 300*F after it has dried, but before you get assembly oil on the surfaces.
Old 06-26-2012, 07:24 AM
  #22329  
mike early
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I never put any belief in paint colors as conductors of heat.

It would get hotter from the absorption from light of the sun if it is black vs a lighter color, though.
Old 06-26-2012, 07:49 AM
  #22330  
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OK Saito buds, I did and experiemtn with mu ole FA .40 and a Zoar 11x6 as Jim suggested, he suggested the size not the make. As I suspected when I unwrapped the Zoar it is way too light, 3,200 is the slowest idle I can get and it simply stops. The good news is it turned the 11x6 at 10,250 rpm wearing a TurboHeader.

Saito FA .40
Fuel=WildCat 15% 2/4 all synthetic
Plug=Fox Miracle
Prop Zoar 11x6

Note U-turn in throttle rod, it worked great for a last minute brainstorm. I've used the idea before but not with that tight of a bend. Also as smooth as the FA .40 is the Sullivan Soft Mount is still a bad idea in fact it may be part of the high idle problem. From modrange to full throttle the engine remained perfectly still.
Picture #3 is at full blatt.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:09 AM
  #22331  
SrTelemaster150
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Also as smooth as the FA .40 is the Sullivan Soft Mount is still a bad idea in fact it may be part of the high idle problem. From modrange to full throttle the engine remained perfectly still.
Picture #3 is at full blatt.

I mount all of my hard mount engine mounts in well nuts.



The softness of the mounting can be varried by how much one tightens down the firewall bolts. I back up the well nut W/a washer that slips over the unexpanded well nut & nylock nut on the back side to lock in the mount bolts.

I've been doing this for years & have not had a single issue other than the well nut taking a set. When that happens, it requires cutting off the back side if the well nut need to be removed from the firewall.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:12 AM
  #22332  
SrTelemaster150
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ORIGINAL: mike early

I never put any belief in paint colors as conductors of heat.

It would get hotter from the absorption from light of the sun if it is black vs a lighter color, though.

Color has little to do W/either absorbsion of disepation of heat in a cowled application. A thin flat finish paint surface will disepate heat better tha a thick shiney coat of paint.
Old 06-26-2012, 08:19 AM
  #22333  
Hobbsy
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Yep, I have some DDD soft mounts similar to those, you can have them as soft or as firm as desired. I like to remove the drumming sound some Diesels impart to a plane. They'll also remove the fourstroke thump.

http://www.davisdieseldevelopment.com/iso_mounts.php
Old 06-26-2012, 09:04 AM
  #22334  
jimbrock
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Saito FA325 R5: I am installing a 325 radial and wonder: What size fuel tank? What size fuel line? Filter give a pressure drop problem?

Jim Brock, Houston
Old 06-26-2012, 09:35 AM
  #22335  
Hobbsy
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A typical Saito with a well adjusted low speed needle uses about 1oz of fuel per cu. in. displacement per minute at full throttle, as they get larger they use slightly less due to lower rpm. As to the fulter, I personally never use one on the plane.
Old 06-26-2012, 10:34 AM
  #22336  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Yep, I have some DDD soft mounts similar to those, you can have them as soft or as firm as desired. I like to remove the drumming sound some Diesels impart to a plane. They'll also remove the fourstroke thump.

http://www.davisdieseldevelopment.com/iso_mounts.php

You can buy well nuts @ any well stocked hdwe store for less than $.50 each. They come in all the common thread sizes, 6 x 32, 8 x 32, 10 x 32, etc.
Old 06-26-2012, 10:55 AM
  #22337  
mike early
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I don't see much talk about the Saito 115. Anyone try it? Love it?
Old 06-26-2012, 10:58 AM
  #22338  
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Hello Saito fellows

I'm planning to mount a RC specialities Turbo Header + right angle adapter on a FA-125a. I tried to find some posts on user reviews on this combo but could not find any. What I'm hopeing to gain is a more reliable and lower idle and better transition than what is the case with my current set-up with a 20mm self-made flex pipe. (Although the peak rpm now is 9300 with 16x6 apc and 12% nitro on sea level I can't set the idle rpm below 2100 or so to avoid dead stick. And I have leaned out the low speed needle as much as possible; further leaning causes such a phenomenon that the engine doesn't follow a quick transition from wide open throtle to idle: The rpm drops to 3000 about and then few seconds later eventually to idle?[X(] )

As a side note; hopefully I won't have to sacrifice too much the peak performance with the RC Specialities Turbo Header + right angle adapter compared my current set-up

It would be nice to hear user comments on RC Specialities Turbo Header

Also any other comments / recommendations are wellcome.

thank you

Artto,
Finland, EU
Old 06-26-2012, 01:01 PM
  #22339  
jimbrock
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One ounce per cubic inch...per minute?
Old 06-26-2012, 01:51 PM
  #22340  
jb86
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i would like to mount a saito .82 on my edge 540
a/c was designed to have engine mounted sideways
it seems to fit better if mount engine upside down
if i do the center of the throttle barrel is about an inch lower than center of tank
i think i asked this a while back cant find an answer
does anyone know if this is a bad condition?
jon
Old 06-26-2012, 01:59 PM
  #22341  
w8ye
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The tank needs to be centered on the needle valve or the needle settings will be problematic
Old 06-26-2012, 02:15 PM
  #22342  
rcflyboy01
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I need some help, last Winter someone posted what sealent to use on the my muffler and exhaust manifold to keep them from lossening up. I tried looking for the post and went nuts . Can soneone help me out
Thanks
Tom
Old 06-26-2012, 03:12 PM
  #22343  
lopflyers
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High temp thread lock. You can get it in the auto
Parts
Old 06-26-2012, 03:48 PM
  #22344  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Aerofinn,

You will not see a performance increase over the stock muffler with the TurboHeader but it should be an improvement over what you are using now. Visit our site an see what other customers are saying. You should be able to tune the engine down below your current rpm's. You may have another issue to deal with. Let us know if we can help. Good luck.

Jim
Old 06-26-2012, 04:13 PM
  #22345  
fly boy 2
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Good afternoon everyone, I am the proud new owner of a Saito 82b that I hope to install in a Seagull Ultimate 46. (This is only my third build)

I cannot figure out this throttle linkage. Any help would be great. Thank you in advance.



Joel

Old 06-26-2012, 04:43 PM
  #22346  
w8ye
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Picture of throttle linkage


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Old 06-26-2012, 05:04 PM
  #22347  
fly boy 2
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Thank you for the pic and quick response,
Allow me to continue, my throttle arm on the motor is located in the middle of the engine near the firewall, the only way I could get high speed needle to come thru the top of the cowl. My linkage is designed to breakthru the firewall at bottom left.

This may be a little better of a discription, take your carb and turn it 180, and have your linkage come thru the firewall at bottom left instead of top right.

thank you so much.
Old 06-26-2012, 05:14 PM
  #22348  
Hobbsy
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Teflon Plumbing Tape is much better.
Old 06-26-2012, 05:23 PM
  #22349  
Hobbsy
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Here is another way to do the bottom throttle rod.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:28 PM
  #22350  
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Yes sir, at full throttle only.

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