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Old 07-20-2012, 10:36 PM
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Hey Hobbsy, I thought I was the only one that didn't like cowlings. They do look nice but I like to clean the engine exterior with a toothbrush and acetone when I get home..... guess they have medicine for people like me......

Ernie Misner
Old 07-21-2012, 03:15 AM
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Rowdyjoe, follow the plan I advised and you should be fine. That works for full size aircraft, as well.
Old 07-21-2012, 04:05 AM
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ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Hey Hobbsy, I thought I was the only one that didn't like cowlings. They do look nice but I like to clean the engine exterior with a toothbrush and acetone when I get home..... guess they have medicine for people like me......
Ernie Misner
Clean the engine? Why? I usually don't bother much with the outside of the engine, until I need to move the engine to a new plane after it wears out the current plane.




Using a cowl is easy. What I do is use some large wide pieces of masking tape. I put the tape on the fuselage amd lay it forward over the engine. Then mark where I want the holes at for the engine, etc. Then I loop the tape back out of the way, remove the engine, then fit the cowl in place. Then unloop the tape and stick it to the cowl. Then I can remove the cowl and the marks on the tape stuck to the cowl are my guides for the holes needed.

Now this old bipe of mine uses old fashioned methods of taking large blocks of balsa and carving and sanding and dremeling until you get it shaped into a cowl., No plastic or fibreglass for the front end on this old bipe. The engine was getting pretty tired, so I did have to clean all the gunk off before I could rebuild it though.


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Old 07-21-2012, 04:43 AM
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Clean the exterior of the engine? I bet the plane itself is pristine then. You will have a heart attack if you fly out of grass[:'(]
Old 07-21-2012, 07:46 AM
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Hi blw ,count me in in the Club Saito please. I think I am eligible ,I have a Saito 82 A sitting in a H9 Pawnee and flies it 100% scale like. Last week I got myself a Saito 220 which will go in a World Models Spitfire 160 ;80 inch wing span. This would be to me a new dimension to deal with as to date the 82 is the biggest engine I own. Knowing that the Club Saitos Gurus are around I am sure I wont run astray dealing with this new engine. Cheers
Old 07-21-2012, 06:14 PM
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:15 PM
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I have this beautiful 125 I need to find a plane for. I'm a intermediate pilot. I don't fly 3-D. Any suggestions???

Walt
Old 07-21-2012, 06:55 PM
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ORIGINAL: svenska3
I have this beautiful 125 I need to find a plane for. I'm a intermediate pilot. I don't fly 3-D. Any suggestions???
Walt
Just about any .60 size plane would work with the engine. Even the .60 to .91 two stroke size planes would work. A Great Planes Escapade might be a good choice as it can handle a wide variety of engines. But you have many choices to fit your desires in that size range.


Old 07-21-2012, 06:59 PM
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Earlwb, I found a better method of marking cowls for motor cutouts a while ago.

I had originally used stiff cardboard and working slowly carved the opening to fit over the motor, then folded it away till the motor was removed and the cowl bolted on. Taping the cardboard back onto the cowl then showed the area to be removed. This was a time consuming and laborious process that many times required starting again.

Since then I found clear and stiff binder protector pages provide a much easier method. As with cardboard you provide a fold line in the plastic sheet and once taped to the fuse, hold it over the motor. Using a sharpie I can mark the area to be removed with greater accuracy the first time. Some shifting may be required to account for angles if the head/cylinder protrude a lot, but in the end it works first time and is a lot more accurate, (the edge is a lot sharper than cardboard or heavy paper).
Old 07-21-2012, 11:46 PM
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I use semi-flexible clear plastic to make a template when mounting an engine. I make it by cutting the plastic to the size of the firewall and finding the direct center of both. Once the center is located it's a simple process to set the engine mount on it and mark the hole locations. Then align the plastic pattern on the firewall and transfer the hole locations.
It works great but, be sure to measure twice and cut once.

RJ
Old 07-22-2012, 03:04 AM
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ORIGINAL: svenska3

I have this beautiful 125 I need to find a plane for. I'm a intermediate pilot. I don't fly 3-D. Any suggestions???

Walt
Hi walt yes i do have a suggestion.Stick the 125 in a cmpro midget mustang.They don't like flying anywhere near 3d and go like a bat out of hell keeps you focused and it's a lot of fun mate..trust me on this one
Old 07-22-2012, 04:23 AM
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Earlwb, I found a better method of marking cowls for motor cutouts a while ago.

I had originally used stiff cardboard and working slowly carved the opening to fit over the motor, then folded it away till the motor was removed and the cowl bolted on. Taping the cardboard back onto the cowl then showed the area to be removed. This was a time consuming and laborious process that many times required starting again.

Since then I found clear and stiff binder protector pages provide a much easier method. As with cardboard you provide a fold line in the plastic sheet and once taped to the fuse, hold it over the motor. Using a sharpie I can mark the area to be removed with greater accuracy the first time. Some shifting may be required to account for angles if the head/cylinder protrude a lot, but in the end it works first time and is a lot more accurate, (the edge is a lot sharper than cardboard or heavy paper).
My Wingsmaker (World Models) 1/5 Piper J-3 Cub came W/a clear plastic cowl layover to do the engine cut outs.

It would be nice if all models came W/one of those.

I'm thinking that one could use a 2 liter bottle shrunk over the cowl to make a similar layover for smaller cowls.
Old 07-22-2012, 08:20 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

My first Saito was the FG20 in 2009.
Now I have Fa 30, 45,91,125,120,150,180,220 ,Twins130, 270,300.
FG 20,30 I love the sound of the 4 stroke Saito engines, and I try to improve the performance by convert tem to CDI glow or to gasoline.
I will like to join the club.

Thanks
Adrian
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:46 AM
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Welcome aboard Adrian, great to hear from you

T-man49 in Al
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:33 AM
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Earlwb, I found a better method of marking cowls for motor cutouts a while ago.

I had originally used stiff cardboard and working slowly carved the opening to fit over the motor, then folded it away till the motor was removed and the cowl bolted on. Taping the cardboard back onto the cowl then showed the area to be removed. This was a time consuming and laborious process that many times required starting again.

Since then I found clear and stiff binder protector pages provide a much easier method. As with cardboard you provide a fold line in the plastic sheet and once taped to the fuse, hold it over the motor. Using a sharpie I can mark the area to be removed with greater accuracy the first time. Some shifting may be required to account for angles if the head/cylinder protrude a lot, but in the end it works first time and is a lot more accurate, (the edge is a lot sharper than cardboard or heavy paper).
My Wingsmaker (World Models) 1/5 Piper J-3 Cub came W/a clear plastic cowl layover to do the engine cut outs.

It would be nice if all models came W/one of those.

I'm thinking that one could use a 2 liter bottle shrunk over the cowl to make a similar layover for smaller cowls.
Be nice if my world models airplane came with wings that wernt twisted like a pretzel and had the right amount of glue in the right places and even nicer if their customer service was worth a hoot ! Cheers the pope
Old 07-22-2012, 04:26 PM
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ORIGINAL: the pope


ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Earlwb, I found a better method of marking cowls for motor cutouts a while ago.

I had originally used stiff cardboard and working slowly carved the opening to fit over the motor, then folded it away till the motor was removed and the cowl bolted on. Taping the cardboard back onto the cowl then showed the area to be removed. This was a time consuming and laborious process that many times required starting again.

Since then I found clear and stiff binder protector pages provide a much easier method. As with cardboard you provide a fold line in the plastic sheet and once taped to the fuse, hold it over the motor. Using a sharpie I can mark the area to be removed with greater accuracy the first time. Some shifting may be required to account for angles if the head/cylinder protrude a lot, but in the end it works first time and is a lot more accurate, (the edge is a lot sharper than cardboard or heavy paper).
My Wingsmaker (World Models) 1/5 Piper J-3 Cub came W/a clear plastic cowl layover to do the engine cut outs.

It would be nice if all models came W/one of those.

I'm thinking that one could use a 2 liter bottle shrunk over the cowl to make a similar layover for smaller cowls.
Be nice if my world models airplane came with wings that wernt twisted like a pretzel and had the right amount of glue in the right places and even nicer if their customer service was worth a hoot ! Cheers the pope

Maybe you should have bought it from Wingsmaker. They have spare parts in stock, but my Cub looks perfect aside from a small pinhead drop of epoxy on the top cabin window. (not enough to worry about IMO)

$179 shipped too. Can't beat that.
Old 07-22-2012, 04:31 PM
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Hi everyone,

I dropped my Saito .82 into my H9 Cub and flew it today with a 14x6 prop and 10% nitro. The plane seemed to leave an awfully heavy smoke trail - more than normal. After I brought it down, I started to hear mechanical sounds in the engine.
At first I was wondering if the valves were out of kilter but they seem OK. The engine hasn't got that much time on it and it hasn't been abused.

I haven't pulled the head off to inspect the piston but I might. Being a Cub, I was being pretty easy on the throttle, by the way.

I was also considering that it might be the LSN setting, but am not sure.

Before I go tearing into things, I was just wondering if anyone else has encountered this and where I should be directing my diagnostics

Thanks,

Bob
Old 07-22-2012, 04:33 PM
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More on the overheating problem ....
I tried the 13x8 prop thinking I could get more RPMand less load on the engine. Well, that was wrong as the 14x6 turned 9400 vs 8800 for the 13x8. I left the 14x6 on and started from at the factory needle positions ...I was evidently missing the step where your supposed to adjust the high end again after adjusting the low end. As it turned out, I was running the low end far too lean and it was definately affecting the high end (duh). Ihave a steady idle at 2000 to 2100 rpm and a WOTRPMat 8800 RPM. I tuned it a bit rich to keep it cooler in the hotter weather.
I havn't run it yet with the cowl on and that will be the acid test. I've added one more baffle to direct the air flow over the cylinder. It's a piece of stiff but, flexible clear plastic protruding perpendicular from the middle fo the cowl to force the air over the cylinder rather than blowing past it. I'd take a picture but, you wouldn't be able to see it because it's clear.
I didn't close off more of the grill I installed an actual baffle to direct the air.

Hope you can make sense out of what I said.

RJ
Old 07-22-2012, 05:22 PM
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I did and it sounds like you are working in the right direction.

N1EDM, do you know your top end RPM? It may keep the RPM down with the larger diameter prop, but I find the Saito chart a bit on the aggressive side and also when working the larger diameters in their chart the torque effects when doing 3D are more pronounced.

The heavier smoke trail usually indicates a richer mixture. I don't have any problem running mine that way and except for a bit more mess actually prefer it that way to ensure good lubrication.
Old 07-22-2012, 05:41 PM
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Hi Cougar,

I didn't tach it but she seemed to be up there with normal RPM. She was just breaking into a 2-stroke scream before I backed her off. She survived the pinch test OK but I could not lean her out much after that.

I know enough to suspect that compression might be an issue but she feels pretty good and, as I said before, she hasn't been abused. So far, the only thing I've done is to pop off the rocker arm covers and check the play. I also realize that in a 4S, the LSN has a greater influence on the midrange (correct me if I'm wrong, guys) but I didn't touch that because the engine was running OK. Plug was an OS Type F, by the way.

Any other ideas from anyone???

Thanks for the reply,

Bob
Old 07-22-2012, 06:10 PM
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Bob,<div>
</div><div>A large smoke trail on a Saito usually indicates a lsn set too rich. The lsn controls something like 75% of the throttle. You may find some nice things on your 82 if leaned out. </div>
Old 07-22-2012, 06:18 PM
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Ok Garry, since the HS needle has a fixed seat its best to set the HS at full peak and leave it there while adjusting the LS needle, this eliminates one variable You always want the LS needle a little on the rich side when the setting the HS needle the first time, Once the ZLS needle is set, it will be a long time before it needs attention again if ever. A too lean LS needle renders the HS needle ineffective.
Old 07-22-2012, 07:14 PM
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Who here has experience with the FA-200Ti?

I haven't ever needed a glow driver with any of my Saito twins or any singles when inverted; Just wondering if maybe I should plan on using the McDaniels on this one since it will be inverted when mounted and the single carby twins seem to run rich on one cyl or the other. All of my -R3's need a driver at low rpm on at least the lower left cyl(front view). Have been told that's common....have yet to hear different.

Also how smooth is it? It's an offset crank twin which typically provides the smoothest operation on an opposed set-up but how does that translate to inline/vee type configuration. Always loved the Saito's though the 91s was so vibratory I had to shelf it 'til I find a more suitable air frame for it. Shook the gunsight off its mounts and the pilot bust loose on too numerous occasions. Hoping the 200Ti isn't inherently similar.

And lastly; any tips on proping this thing for the best performance on a 14lbs Zero (72")

TIA[&:]




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Old 07-22-2012, 07:28 PM
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I'm a bit surprised your 91 was so bad. Mine is extremely smooth with either 2 or 3-blade props.
Old 07-22-2012, 08:52 PM
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I had replaced the bearings and the ring (Frank bowman ring) immediatly upon receiving it (used) even though it felt great and looked perfect inside and out...just my normal MO. Came from an estate and appeared to have very little, if any time on it at all. Definitely no damage.

The thing runs great...lots of power; just a lot of vibration at 3/4 thru full throttle. Same with several props; 2 blade various mfgs and 3 blade Graupners.

Probably going on a .60 Super Sportster on floats...The vibes won't be an issue there.

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