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Old 07-27-2012, 06:14 PM
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Just a shielded bearing, lube will get inside it.
Old 07-27-2012, 10:36 PM
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: blw

Here is an update to the Saito Club:<div>
</div><div>Riadh #781</div><div>
</div><div>CH Ignitions #782</div><div>
</div><div>Rowdyjoe #783</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Anyone else have a Saito and need a number?</div>

I guees that makes me #784?
Old 07-27-2012, 11:33 PM
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Igot a good deal on some 30% nitro 18% lube full synth that Ihave been running in my Magnum 52FS and it works really well, even makes that stinking Magnum run good. Any thoughts on using it in my Saito FA40? Ihave been using SIG 15% Syn Plus and it likes the heck out of it but Iwouldnt mind a little more power.
It is close to being broke in, its hard to get a gallon through it when just a few ounces will fly for like 15 minutes . Iget tired after 10 or so.
Istarted it out with some SIGChampion 15% with castor then transitioned it to the Syn Plus ,in case you are wondering
Old 07-28-2012, 04:18 AM
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I should have said Shielded instead of sealed, my bad. I guess it's the right bearing in there after all. But I have to see if my bearings are still good or bad. Can't track down that noise. Everything inside appears to move very freely, so I don't know what else it could be.

And Hobbsy, thanks for that follow-up on the Velocity Stack

Any other ideas on what could cause that noise in an engine? Cam??

Thanks!

Bob
Old 07-28-2012, 04:49 AM
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[quote]ORIGINAL: jeffie8696

Igot a good deal on some 30% nitro 18% lube full synth that Ihave been running in my Magnum 52FS and it works really well, even makes that stinking Magnum run good. Any thoughts on using it in my Saito FA40? Ihave been using SIG 15% Syn Plus and it likes the heck out of it but Iwouldnt mind a little more power.
It is close to being broke in, its hard to get a gallon through it when just a few ounces will fly for like 15 minutes . Iget tired after 10 or so.
Istarted it out with some SIGChampion 15% with castor then transitioned it to the Syn Plus ,in case you are wondering

I have a 100 that is being running on 30% since day 1. But is being having iddling problems I'm thinking it might be the high nitro content
Old 07-28-2012, 08:40 AM
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Cheers blw

Saito Club member 781 ,Riadh
Old 07-28-2012, 09:17 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: Old Fart


ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: blw

Here is an update to the Saito Club:<div>
</div><div>Riadh #781</div><div>
</div><div>CH Ignitions #782</div><div>
</div><div>Rowdyjoe #783</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Anyone else have a Saito and need a number?</div>

I guees that makes me #784?

Actually someone beat me to the request for #784.

ORIGINAL: AeroFinn


I wonder if I can be accepted as a member. I happen to have only one Saito, for the time being..a FA-125a..However, I would like to be a member, too
So I guees maybe I'm #785?

Is blw the official bestower of Club Saito #s or should we just clain our #s?
Old 07-28-2012, 02:48 PM
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Ok i need advice. My 100 was not idling well. So i was messing with the HS and LS needle. Turn on turn Off and do it again. Sometimes chicken stick sometimes electric starter. Well after 30-45 mins it lost compression. Ahrrrrrr. I took it to the wise guys at the LHS and they found a broken piston and metal shavings in the chamber. They suggest to send it back to Horizon.<div>I think this engine is never going to be the same. Should I send it? Should I buy another one and sell this one for parts?</div><div>Give me opinions if you have enough $$ to buy a 125 to replace it</div>
Old 07-28-2012, 02:53 PM
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Never, "mess" with the needle, you need to set them with a plan like setting the HS needle at peak rpm first then set the LS needle. If it is still under warranty Horizon Hobby will fix it correctly. If it is our of warranty use your own judgement.
Old 07-28-2012, 04:02 PM
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Lopflyers, not to seem rude, but I would work on getting the 100 fixed if under warranty and then learn how to tune it correctly, (ask around for someone with more experience, if possible) before looking at a new 125. You definitely would NOT want to repeat this again, especially with a larger and more expensive engine.

One thing to point out is most engines can have a sensitive idle until at least some progress is made toward break in. Saitos also do NOT like to run lean, especially at full throttle. They can come to an IMMEDIATE stop. This can be hard on any engine.
Old 07-28-2012, 05:00 PM
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Lopflyers,

A quick look on Horizon Hobby shows a new piston at $32.00, ring $16.00, and cylinder head at $96.00. This will probably be the minimum cost. Do you know if any metal debris got into the lower crankcase? I don't know how much you work on engines, but it could be an interesting and fun job for you. I have a 125 but they are expensive nowadays.
Old 07-28-2012, 06:15 PM
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ORIGINAL: N1EDM

I tuned my Saito 82b on the bench this week. It had been making a noise that I couldn't place. It was also leaving a very smokey trail which was cured when I leaned in the LSN about 1/2 turn.

Regarding the noise, I suspected valves. But they were spot on. Just the hint of a gap at TDC. Everything turns freely and no grinding noise when I turn the prop over by hand.

When I took the backplate off to check, I noticed that the rear/main bearing was sealed. Is this right? I don't recall ever seeing a sealed bearing in any engine. If that noise doesn't go away I'll pull the valve train and check the camshaft and cam but I don't think the problem is there.

Does anyone know if the rear bearing on the 82 is supposed to be sealed?

Thanks,

Bob
Hi bob,assuming you were in the ballpark with the lsn half a turn closed sounds like a lot.Re the noise have you tried gently holding both prop tips and alternately pushing/pulling back and forth? to check for any play in the crankshaft bearings?
Old 07-28-2012, 06:39 PM
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Hey, thx to everyone. I have next to no experience working w engines. I did ask for someone with lots of experience with four strokes and he did help some. The next time I went to fly her same iddling problem and I was alone.<div>That's why I decided it was time to learn. It didn't run lean, I think it was too rich. Anyhow if it is going to be more than $150 I think I will get a new one, for $280. </div><div>My fear is to spend all that money and the engine will keep giving me problems. </div><div>The other 100 I have is on the large Revolver and it starts with one flip, and never have give me any problem.</div>
Old 07-29-2012, 04:06 AM
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Was that 100 used? Does it have the metal or plastic throttle arm? If it has a metal throttle arm it is likely the older gen Saito with coated valve seats, not inserts, (although since the plastic arm is a direct replacement it may not be a true indicator of a newer gen status). If there is any damage on the valve seats you would be looking into at least a new cylinder assembly.

If it is the older generation motor from time alone you would be out of warranty. Please let us know the status on that.
Old 07-29-2012, 04:18 AM
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I bought the engine NIB 2 yrs ago, so is out of warranty. It has the metal throttle arm. Now thinking about it I bought it at flee bay and it was considerably cheaper than at Horizon.<div>Maybe that's why it was cheaper. </div>
Old 07-29-2012, 06:17 AM
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Hi loppy you should value your own spare time more.Me i can generate enough of my own problems by not using new gear well through a lack of knowledge on my part...now being second third or fourth in the line don't help the cause,which is to enjoy myself in the little spare time i have.Good luck mate.
Old 07-29-2012, 01:06 PM
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ORIGINAL: lopflyers

Anyhow if it is going to be more than $150 I think I will get a new one, for $280.
Look at it this way, you will have a parts engine in the old one for the new 100 you are going to buy.
Old 07-29-2012, 01:07 PM
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Sorry about the delay in getting numbers out to new members.

AeroFinn #784

SrTelemaster150 #785
Old 07-29-2012, 01:50 PM
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ORIGINAL: blw

Sorry about the delay in getting numbers out to new members.

AeroFinn #784

SrTelemaster150 #785
Just to be annoying, would you be able to confirm my number? If I don't have one, I'm happy to take the next available one.

THX
Old 07-29-2012, 02:42 PM
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I'll second that request. Can't remember if I was ever assigned one.
Old 07-29-2012, 04:25 PM
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Has anyone else tried SIGSyn Plus in their 4S engines? It has an additive to reduce cyl head temps and a good friend of mine says it really works so Iwas worried it would cool off the plug too much to get a reliable idle but as far as Ican tell the opposite is true !! It works fantastic in all my 4S engines and they stay cool to boot.
Old 07-29-2012, 05:48 PM
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Hello OF,

Thanks for the reply. Regarding the LSN, it was leaving a pretty smokey trail. It hasn't flown since I retuned it but the smoke noticably decreased on the ground and passes the Pinch Test OK.

As for the thought about checking for fore/aft play in the bearings, I have not done that. Thanks for that tip. I'll let you know what I find. She's still a sweet engine with lots of compression. Been in the 'engine drawer' for about a year or so but loaded with ARO. We'll see if it did any good or if the ARO let me down.

Thanks again,

Bob
Old 07-29-2012, 08:59 PM
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help i have a brand new saito 125 engine i broke engine in as described by someone here. took airplane for maiden. this was 1 month ago.70 revolver the airplane went down after 7 minutes of flight on its maiden due to a plastic servo gear breakage on the rudder since then i have purchased a new revolver and have re assembled the bird however just now i installed prop and spinner and i was manually rotating the prop and it appears there is just ever so small out of round spin meaning i believe the crankshaft may be ever so slightly bent any advice???
Old 07-30-2012, 04:07 AM
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I worked on one that was out by about .010". It was pretty good on the test bench. couldn't see any wobble there.

You will have to either replace the crank or get it straightened?
Old 07-30-2012, 04:09 AM
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Are you spinning the motor with the plug removed? If you feel any roughness at all I would NOT recommend spinning the crank till at least a mechanical check is done on the internals. You may cause more problems. If you have the skills and the motor spins smoothly at least remove the valve covers to check for integrity and mechanical action.

If you have access to a machine shop or know of anyone that does you can have them dial indicate the crank. However, the best method would likely be with the crank removed. It would also allow for straightening if not too far out-of-true.

Personally I find it surprising the crank took a hit bad enough to bend without either compromising the bearings or the pushrod tubes taking a hit.

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