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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 04-27-2013, 11:19 PM
  #24726  
FNQFLYER
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Hobbsy, I see by your photo you are using Bolly Clubmans.  I use them, sometimes, better than APC to my mind but , big BUT, if you can lay your hands on some of the carbon fibre Bolly props then you'll know you are alive.  Lots better.
Yes Bolly is back even has an am,ericain agent BUT (that word again) he only sells in batches of 50 of any single size.  Check out his site.  Google Bolly Props and follow the links 
Old 04-28-2013, 03:38 AM
  #24727  
Hobbsy
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My neighbor, "Big Bill" who weighs 425 lbs gave me two Genesee's for my birthday. I drank one on my birthday and the other yesterday. I took some folks advice on here and bought two Zoar 11x6 for my old Saito FA .40. It idles pretty shaky with them mounted but is silky smooth with the 11.5x5 Bolly's. The prop you can't see here is a Mejzlik 16x8 on a 1.50.
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:26 AM
  #24728  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

You tell your neighbour he must be ten feet tall to weigh that much and stop going to maccas,thats the beer talkingplus wood props are awesome on a well tuned saito ya reckon?
Old 04-28-2013, 10:32 AM
  #24729  
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ok, I have a question that might seem sacreligious. I have mounted my Saito FA-82 on a Great Planes UCD 46. The UCD 46 uses a 2inch spinner (I am using an aluminum). The crankshaft is too long to be able to fit a 2inch regular spinner. I could go and buy a longer 2inch (Ultimate-style) pointy spinner, which won't fit the contour of the plane properly. Or I could cut the crankshaft about 1/4inch.

Is cutting the crankshaft advisable? If yes, is there a good way to do it? I was thinking of using a cutting wheel on my Dreme if that is the way to gol.

Thanks for any advice.
Old 04-28-2013, 11:01 AM
  #24730  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


ORIGINAL: hsukaria

ok, I have a question that might seem sacreligious. I have mounted my Saito FA-82 on a Great Planes UCD 46. The UCD 46 uses a 2inch spinner (I am using an aluminum). The crankshaft is too long to be able to fit a 2inch regular spinner. I could go and buy a longer 2inch (Ultimate-style) pointy spinner, which won't fit the contour of the plane properly. Or I could cut the crankshaft about 1/4inch.

Is cutting the crankshaft advisable? If yes, is there a good way to do it? I was thinking of using a cutting wheel on my Dreme if that is the way to gol.

Thanks for any advice.
I have a 1 3/4" spinner on my FA91S W/a 15 X 5 Zinger prop.

You could cut the shaft, but maybe a better alternative would be to set the engine back & use a spacer under the spinner backplate.
Old 04-28-2013, 11:29 AM
  #24731  
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: hsukaria

ok, I have a question that might seem sacreligious. I have mounted my Saito FA-82 on a Great Planes UCD 46. The UCD 46 uses a 2inch spinner (I am using an aluminum). The crankshaft is too long to be able to fit a 2inch regular spinner. I could go and buy a longer 2inch (Ultimate-style) pointy spinner, which won't fit the contour of the plane properly. Or I could cut the crankshaft about 1/4inch.

Is cutting the crankshaft advisable? If yes, is there a good way to do it? I was thinking of using a cutting wheel on my Dreme if that is the way to gol.

Thanks for any advice.
I have a 1 3/4'' spinner on my FA91S W/a 15 X 5 Zinger prop.

You could cut the shaft, but maybe a better alternative would be to set the engine back & use a spacer under the spinner backplate.

Never ever cut a crank shaft! Can you get a shorter prop nut adapter for the spinner?
Old 04-28-2013, 11:36 AM
  #24732  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: MAAC


ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150


ORIGINAL: hsukaria

ok, I have a question that might seem sacreligious. I have mounted my Saito FA-82 on a Great Planes UCD 46. The UCD 46 uses a 2inch spinner (I am using an aluminum). The crankshaft is too long to be able to fit a 2inch regular spinner. I could go and buy a longer 2inch (Ultimate-style) pointy spinner, which won't fit the contour of the plane properly. Or I could cut the crankshaft about 1/4inch.

Is cutting the crankshaft advisable? If yes, is there a good way to do it? I was thinking of using a cutting wheel on my Dreme if that is the way to gol.

Thanks for any advice.
I have a 1 3/4'' spinner on my FA91S W/a 15 X 5 Zinger prop.

You could cut the shaft, but maybe a better alternative would be to set the engine back & use a spacer under the spinner backplate.

Never ever cut a crank shaft! Can you get a shorter prop nut adapter for the spinner?
I recenetly bought a 180 replacement crank when I was building thehigh compressio version on the 150 case. It was longer than the 1st gen FA180 that I had.

I see that the current 91S crank is also longer. The only place I can see the need for a longer prop shaft would be when one needs to set the engine back (with the appropriate spacers behind the propeller) in a Spitfire, Mustang or J-3 Cub to keep things contained in the cowl. These new longer cranks are too long otherwise.

I see no reason why cutting some off the end of the shaft would hurt as long as it was done properly & the shaft was not shortened excessively..
Old 04-28-2013, 11:52 AM
  #24733  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


ORIGINAL: hsukaria

ok, I have a question that might seem sacreligious. I have mounted my Saito FA-82 on a Great Planes UCD 46. The UCD 46 uses a 2inch spinner (I am using an aluminum). The crankshaft is too long to be able to fit a 2inch regular spinner. I could go and buy a longer 2inch (Ultimate-style) pointy spinner, which won't fit the contour of the plane properly. Or I could cut the crankshaft about 1/4inch.

Is cutting the crankshaft advisable? If yes, is there a good way to do it? I was thinking of using a cutting wheel on my Dreme if that is the way to gol.

Thanks for any advice.
Your Saito will out live your plane. Dont cut the crankshaft. Find a prop nut adapter thats works for your setup.
Old 04-28-2013, 11:53 AM
  #24734  
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Actually, the adapter nut is not the limiting factor on the shaft end. If it were shorter on the shaft end, it would not give good grip on the prop. So, I could try cutting the adapter end that the spinner bolt threads into, but I am not sure I will end up with enough threads.

I could shift the engine back also, more work, but may be the way to go. It would be more work than I originally planned, but it's hobby anyway. The more work, the more fun. The only thing is that I would have to find a good spacer between the engine and the spinner backplate that gives enough grip.
Old 04-28-2013, 12:25 PM
  #24735  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: hsukaria

Actually, the adapter nut is not the limiting factor on the shaft end. If it were shorter on the shaft end, it would not give good grip on the prop. So, I could try cutting the adapter end that the spinner bolt threads into, but I am not sure I will end up with enough threads.

I could shift the engine back also, more work, but may be the way to go. It would be more work than I originally planned, but it's hobby anyway. The more work, the more fun. The only thing is that I would have to find a good spacer between the engine and the spinner backplate that gives enough grip.
I have made spacers out of old spinner backplates. It can even be done on a drill press if a lathe is not handy.

They are knurled on both sides & give plenty of grip.

Never ever throw a way old spinner backplates.

In reality, any aluminum spacer will do.
Old 04-28-2013, 12:32 PM
  #24736  
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Consider yourselves fortunate to have cranks too long. When they're too short like this .80 and my .65 you have to use things like this Harry Higley adapter or a Tru-turn adapter that requires drilling a half inch hole in the prop so the prop nut can be countersunk into the prop. Even with the Harry Higley nuts that's not many threads to hold the outer nut.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:14 PM
  #24737  
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I have a 15 year old Saito 91 that has a interesting problem. I was trying to get my throttle cut to work on my radio and found that it would take down to a very low idle but the engine would keep running. I kept adjusting the servo positon and end points but it didn't make any difference. I found that the poor servo was pulling as hard as it could but the barrel wouldn't rotate any further and left a sliver just big enough to keep it running. I have taken the stop/guide screw out (this one is a short stud and not the long spring type) and looked at the guide slot in the barrel and ther just isn't enough travel. I guess it had worked before because the idle was set a lot richer and it eventually quit but in an attempt to get a more reliable idle it is now leaner. Has anyone else experienced this? It would seem that the slot would have to be elongated by another 1/32 - 1/16 inch to allow it to travel to a fully closed position. Not sure how I can successfully elongate the idle end of the slot. Perhaps with a high speed Dremmel and grinding or end mill? Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

Jaybird
Old 04-28-2013, 03:33 PM
  #24738  
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ORIGINAL: Jaybird

I have a 15 year old Saito 91 that has a interesting problem. I was trying to get my throttle cut to work on my radio and found that it would take down to a very low idle but the engine would keep running. I kept adjusting the servo positon and end points but it didn't make any difference. I found that the poor servo was pulling as hard as it could but the barrel wouldn't rotate any further and left a sliver just big enough to keep it running. I have taken the stop/guide screw out (this one is a short stud and not the long spring type) and looked at the guide slot in the barrel and ther just isn't enough travel. I guess it had worked before because the idle was set a lot richer and it eventually quit but in an attempt to get a more reliable idle it is now leaner. Has anyone else experienced this? It would seem that the slot would have to be elongated by another 1/32 - 1/16 inch to allow it to travel to a fully closed position. Not sure how I can successfully elongate the idle end of the slot. Perhaps with a high speed Dremmel and grinding or end mill? Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

Jaybird
Sounds like maybe you have a vacuum leak.
Old 04-28-2013, 03:55 PM
  #24739  
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I had a similar problem with a 2-stroke engine. It turns out that the carb was not mounted far enough against the o-ring. So, I would check for any air leaks. Maybe if you can block the intake while the engine is running, see if the engine continues to run anyway. That would tell you that you have an air leak.
Old 04-28-2013, 03:57 PM
  #24740  
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I fixed the problem by adding a 1/8inch spacer between the engine and spinner backplate and also cutting 1/8inch off the spinner adapter nut on the spinner bolt end (not the crankshaft side).
Old 04-28-2013, 05:08 PM
  #24741  
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OK People I got my hands on 2 Saito 120 OLD in the box thay came in any body tell me if there are worth any thing R/L

P/M me please !!!! R/L
Old 04-28-2013, 05:13 PM
  #24742  
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ORIGINAL: RiverLarry

OK People I got my hands on 2 Saito 120 OLD in the box thay came in any body tell me if there are worth any thing R/L

P/M me please !!!! R/L
No, they are worthless. Send them to me.
Old 04-28-2013, 05:26 PM
  #24743  
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria

I had a similar problem with a 2-stroke engine. It turns out that the carb was not mounted far enough against the o-ring. So, I would check for any air leaks. Maybe if you can block the intake while the engine is running, see if the engine continues to run anyway. That would tell you that you have an air leak.
A better way to isolate vacuum leaks is to sray carb cleaner (through a small tube) into various suspected intake junctions as the engine idles.

When the leaking joint is sprayed, idle RPM will fall off slightly.
Old 04-28-2013, 06:11 PM
  #24744  
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Jay, from what you're saying I gather that the .91 does not have an idle speed adjustment screw holding the barrel open. This is an .80 carb with the idle speed adjustment screw.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:15 AM
  #24745  
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Correct, the barrel has a milled guide slot and the carb body has a short threaded stud that engages it (no spring). Looking into the throttle the same as the picture above, there is still a small opening when in the fully closed position. On my other 91 it closes completely and operates as expected.

I looked at some current Saito engines at the hobby shop today and the barrels fully close when rotated. There was a new 82 with the same carb as mine with the stud instead of the screw and spring and it too went completely closed. I'll check for any other air leaks, but the most obvious one is right in the carb!

Jaybird
Old 04-29-2013, 12:55 PM
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FA.91S does not have an air bleed carberator.
Old 04-29-2013, 12:56 PM
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Good news.

The FA450R3D is back on the Horizon site.

It was listed as discontinued for several days.
Old 04-29-2013, 02:17 PM
  #24748  
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Dan, is that the gasoline one or the real one? I guess I could look myself.
Old 04-29-2013, 02:59 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Dan, is that the gasoline one or the real one? I guess I could look myself.
Gasoline FG84R3 is not on the site yet. (FG84 is the 450 bottom end W/180 pots, much like the FG57 boxer version of the FA300.)

The glow version FA450R3 was on clearance for $1049 for a while, then last week they showed out of stock & when you clicked on the image, the page came up as discontinued.

Now they are showwing "in stock" at $1099 shipped.

I need to get some $$$ scaped up & get one of these to convert to CDI.

CDI will eliminate the dropped cyllinder problems & C&H is getting about 6.1HP on 15% Cool Power W/CDI.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iERCMNum7XY[/youtube]

They now have a 4 magnet trigger ring that works W/the RCEXL (FG84) 3 cylinder radial module. Much easier & tidier conversion for 3 cylinder radials.
Old 04-29-2013, 05:53 PM
  #24750  
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Thanks Dan, I would like to have one for a Bruce Tharpe Super Plying King future project. Although I should finish my current Flying King for a Saito .80.

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