OS engines users Club
#901
My Feedback: (1)
I liked the video, I smiled all the way threw it. I'm telling you, if you could find 2 NIB OS 50sx you could turn two 11 inch 3 blade props. the 50sx will turn an APC 11x8 at 11,000, so it should turn a 11 inch 3 blade'r with a 5 or 6 pitch depending on the brand,
I'm sorry to hear about your wife ! I wouldn't know how to live without mine !
Jim
I'm sorry to hear about your wife ! I wouldn't know how to live without mine !
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 04-03-2020 at 10:50 PM.
#903
Dear FlyerInOKC...
Believe it or not, the best modification I made on this model was gluing leading edges between the nacelles and the fuselage.. The first 3 models always seemed drop about 2 to 3 feet before I hit the runway unless there was a really good headwind.. I just never understood it until I realized the model just stopped flying, all because the air just stopped hugging the wing at the slower landing speed.. The flaps no longer helped keeping the model in the air... In the photo you can see red leading edges I made with a $3.00 piece of leading edge balsa stock.. I used some old "ValKote" I had from the mid 80's and covered them, then added the black pin striping to make it look like radiator intakes... In the original kit, they had these flat spots (see the manufacturer's photo) so you could put Radiator Intake Decals there to make it more realistic... Problem was, the flat spots were in the area of the largest part of the wing chord and the slower air speed on approaches would just take the air over the wing surface and stop the wing from creating lift any longer.... I busted up several wheels and ripped out the gear as well in the early days... The little pieces of balsa stopped the problem finally... the only other choice you had was to come in at 40 mph and use no flaps at all... That was no fun either....
Believe it or not, the best modification I made on this model was gluing leading edges between the nacelles and the fuselage.. The first 3 models always seemed drop about 2 to 3 feet before I hit the runway unless there was a really good headwind.. I just never understood it until I realized the model just stopped flying, all because the air just stopped hugging the wing at the slower landing speed.. The flaps no longer helped keeping the model in the air... In the photo you can see red leading edges I made with a $3.00 piece of leading edge balsa stock.. I used some old "ValKote" I had from the mid 80's and covered them, then added the black pin striping to make it look like radiator intakes... In the original kit, they had these flat spots (see the manufacturer's photo) so you could put Radiator Intake Decals there to make it more realistic... Problem was, the flat spots were in the area of the largest part of the wing chord and the slower air speed on approaches would just take the air over the wing surface and stop the wing from creating lift any longer.... I busted up several wheels and ripped out the gear as well in the early days... The little pieces of balsa stopped the problem finally... the only other choice you had was to come in at 40 mph and use no flaps at all... That was no fun either....
#904
Thank you Galloping Ghost... Here is a little video of one of my preliminary flights I made back in 2008 before I was gong to waste 2 days of time cutting out Nacelles to custom fit over the engines.. I thought to myself, if it doesn't fly, I would save a bunch of time making them for nothing... Not to mention I need to adjust the engines to get them set up first anyway... As you see in this short little clip, the O.S. 40SF engines were humming in perfect harmony that evening....
Here is the Link... Wow just seems like yesterday to me...
Here is the Link... Wow just seems like yesterday to me...
#906
Photos of me rebuilding the O.S. 75 AX engine used on my 60 Sized Hangar 9 P-40 Warhawk I built in 2005
Hangar 9 P-40 Warhawk, modified
Top View...
Dissembled O.S. 75 AX
Rusted Rear Bearing needs to come out
New Bearings for the front and the rear are placed on the crankshaft and then put in the Freezer
Engine with rusted bearing is placed on a cookie sheet after setting the temperature to 325 to 350 Degrees F for 10 minutes
I use an oven Glove after 10 minutes and wack the back of the engine flush on the edge of a piece of wood... I use an old book shelf... You do not want to hit the engine on the cooling fin section, just the rear bearing housing...
The bearing usually falls out most of the time.. This one was a little tougher... The engine had not been run in over 5 years...
Once the bearing is out, the engine is still really hot.. Carefully wipe out the castor build up where the bearing was, then take the front bearing attached to the crankshaft in the freezer and push it into place.. It goes in really easy, then immediately shove the rear bearing in place from the back...
Now take your back-plate from your aluminium spinner and add your prop and tighten down the nut snug, then start tapping the area around the bearings with the back side of a wooden hammer and keep tightening the nut... Leave everything alone and let it cool on it's own... If you don't have an aluminum back plate, large washers will do...
I have it remounted here.. Added a new piston and sleeve assembly and completely rebuilt the carburetor too...Added some "After Run In" Oil all throughout the engine bearings and all over the crankshaft.... I am presently building a Sig 4 Star 64 to mount the engine on to get it broken back in... I do not want to break it on on the Warhawk.. I will even mount the engine inverted as I have it here on the P-40 so when I mount the engine back on to fly, it should be already adjusted ready to go
Hangar 9 P-40 Warhawk, modified
Top View...
Dissembled O.S. 75 AX
Rusted Rear Bearing needs to come out
New Bearings for the front and the rear are placed on the crankshaft and then put in the Freezer
Engine with rusted bearing is placed on a cookie sheet after setting the temperature to 325 to 350 Degrees F for 10 minutes
I use an oven Glove after 10 minutes and wack the back of the engine flush on the edge of a piece of wood... I use an old book shelf... You do not want to hit the engine on the cooling fin section, just the rear bearing housing...
The bearing usually falls out most of the time.. This one was a little tougher... The engine had not been run in over 5 years...
Once the bearing is out, the engine is still really hot.. Carefully wipe out the castor build up where the bearing was, then take the front bearing attached to the crankshaft in the freezer and push it into place.. It goes in really easy, then immediately shove the rear bearing in place from the back...
Now take your back-plate from your aluminium spinner and add your prop and tighten down the nut snug, then start tapping the area around the bearings with the back side of a wooden hammer and keep tightening the nut... Leave everything alone and let it cool on it's own... If you don't have an aluminum back plate, large washers will do...
I have it remounted here.. Added a new piston and sleeve assembly and completely rebuilt the carburetor too...Added some "After Run In" Oil all throughout the engine bearings and all over the crankshaft.... I am presently building a Sig 4 Star 64 to mount the engine on to get it broken back in... I do not want to break it on on the Warhawk.. I will even mount the engine inverted as I have it here on the P-40 so when I mount the engine back on to fly, it should be already adjusted ready to go
#907
I’ve got a ringed 60FSR that was originally Perry pumped and carbed. The carb was damaged in a crash some 25 years ago, so I sourced an OS 7B carburetor and fitted it as well as an original Bowman piston ring, and new Boca bearings. I will never use it and would like to get it in someone’s hands that’ll use it. Shoot me a PM if interested.
#908
Hey 1QwkSport2.5r
I purchased an O.S. 61fsr about a year ago and it was in mint condition like what you have.... I bought for $150.00 off of eBay... I think that would be your best shot at selling it.... Thanks for writing about it...
I purchased an O.S. 61fsr about a year ago and it was in mint condition like what you have.... I bought for $150.00 off of eBay... I think that would be your best shot at selling it.... Thanks for writing about it...
#909
My Feedback: (1)
I have a GP ShoeString, it had an OS 61fx in it, the engine would always stall, well I cleaned it and replace the bearings. I tested it on the bench with a Heli pipe and it ran up to 13.800 and it burned out the pinch. well I saw a brand spanking new OS 70sz Heli engine F/S for $100 and I said "hey now, that's more power and a bolt in fit win, win, win",,, bought it.
like my OS 50 Hyper Heli engine I have in my World Models P-40 all I need is a shoulder nut for a prop nut. you can see in my photo that I turned the 70's Heli heat-sink head down, and the 70 had 2 extra mounting tabs up by the front bearing, I milled them off too.
edit; BTW, the large Heli carb on the 50 for the P-40 works fantastic for a fast plane. the guys in the club guess it zips around about 100mph
like my OS 50 Hyper Heli engine I have in my World Models P-40 all I need is a shoulder nut for a prop nut. you can see in my photo that I turned the 70's Heli heat-sink head down, and the 70 had 2 extra mounting tabs up by the front bearing, I milled them off too.
edit; BTW, the large Heli carb on the 50 for the P-40 works fantastic for a fast plane. the guys in the club guess it zips around about 100mph
Last edited by the Wasp; 04-15-2020 at 12:59 PM.
#910
I don’t sell on eBay. I am even thinking of banning using PayPal. I’m not gonna pay the fees anymore. Whether I’m the buyer or seller, I end up paying.
Thanks for the suggestion though. I’ll have some other O.S. engines to sell soon too. I am keeping one that I’m doing some custom internals for (true ABC conversion for starters).
Thanks for the suggestion though. I’ll have some other O.S. engines to sell soon too. I am keeping one that I’m doing some custom internals for (true ABC conversion for starters).
#911
Dear 1QwkSport2.5r
Sure I understand about the fees... I have never sold anything on eBay in all of the years I have used it.... I Love the O.S. FS and FSRabc engines for sure... Thin wall piston and sleeve assemblies are very thin and can overheat if you are not careful.... I have always used Omega 15% fuels and K&B glow plug combinations since I have been flying RC since 1978... The last few years, I have been having problems with glow plugs burning out.. I have always used the K&B 1L.. the most tried and true plug for the O.S. engines in the day... The Morgan Omega 15% fuel has always been reliable and given me the best performance and the least amount residue build up keeping the engine running clean without the castor oil build up and so on... Now with a lot of people going to the gasoline engines and electric combinations fuel is becoming more scarce in that you have to buy 4 gallons and pay the Hazmat shipping... I do not even know if the fuel is as fresh as it use to be... I use a brand new gallon that I just receive and the engine stull runs hot but not as bad as it would if the fuel was 1 year old and such.... It is frustrating now.... I don't think they are testing the mixture like they use to do... I have plenty of oil coming out of the exhaust which you would think the engine is running rich, but actually running very hot and then blows the plug... I ended up gong to the heavy duty plugs from K&B but still having issues... I am open to a more reliable fuel if you have a favorite... I was looking into the Sig Manufacturing fuels... The mixture seems all wrong with the omega these days and the engine is running as if it is all oil in the fuel and no nitromethane.... I have always flown twins and never had issues until the last year or so...… Open for suggestions... Thanks
Sure I understand about the fees... I have never sold anything on eBay in all of the years I have used it.... I Love the O.S. FS and FSRabc engines for sure... Thin wall piston and sleeve assemblies are very thin and can overheat if you are not careful.... I have always used Omega 15% fuels and K&B glow plug combinations since I have been flying RC since 1978... The last few years, I have been having problems with glow plugs burning out.. I have always used the K&B 1L.. the most tried and true plug for the O.S. engines in the day... The Morgan Omega 15% fuel has always been reliable and given me the best performance and the least amount residue build up keeping the engine running clean without the castor oil build up and so on... Now with a lot of people going to the gasoline engines and electric combinations fuel is becoming more scarce in that you have to buy 4 gallons and pay the Hazmat shipping... I do not even know if the fuel is as fresh as it use to be... I use a brand new gallon that I just receive and the engine stull runs hot but not as bad as it would if the fuel was 1 year old and such.... It is frustrating now.... I don't think they are testing the mixture like they use to do... I have plenty of oil coming out of the exhaust which you would think the engine is running rich, but actually running very hot and then blows the plug... I ended up gong to the heavy duty plugs from K&B but still having issues... I am open to a more reliable fuel if you have a favorite... I was looking into the Sig Manufacturing fuels... The mixture seems all wrong with the omega these days and the engine is running as if it is all oil in the fuel and no nitromethane.... I have always flown twins and never had issues until the last year or so...… Open for suggestions... Thanks
#913
My Feedback: (1)
Originally Posted by [b
1QwkSport2.5r;12597277]I don’t sell on eBay. I am even thinking of banning using PayPal. I’m not gonna pay the fees anymore. Whether I’m the buyer or seller, I end up paying.
Thanks for the suggestion though. I’ll have some other O.S. engines to sell soon too. I am keeping one that I’m doing some custom internals for (true ABC conversion for starters).
Thanks for the suggestion though. I’ll have some other O.S. engines to sell soon too. I am keeping one that I’m doing some custom internals for (true ABC conversion for starters).
I don't know if you are interested but right now on RCGroups there is an HP 61 w/muffler for $80, the guy said it had only 10 flights on it too, you will have to ask but I think it's an ABC engine.
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 04-16-2020 at 06:34 PM.
#914
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , OH
Posts: 19
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Is there any way I can get help identifying some OS engines from my husband's estate? I know nothing about them and would like to sell them. Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
#920
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , OH
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He had a user name and password but I don't believe he ever sold anything. He may have purchased things from here but I am not sure. I know he read information on the site but don't think he posted any info. When I asked my question about the engines I used his signon of magyar4914
#921
He had a user name and password but I don't believe he ever sold anything. He may have purchased things from here but I am not sure. I know he read information on the site but don't think he posted any info. When I asked my question about the engines I used his signon of magyar4914
The reason why the admins have done this minimum number of posts before photo posting privileges on various model airplane forums is to cut down on spammers. These miscreants create lots of problems by disrupting forums more often than not with non-model aircraft topics, sales items and even illegal stuff. This both takes away bandwidth (yes, they pay for time and storage space with the Internet server provider service, higher the traffic the more they pay) and discourages people from reading and posting in the forums.
Other forums you can contact are RCGroups https://www.rcgroups.com/ and Stunt Hangar https://stunthanger.com/.
#923
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , OH
Posts: 19
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Thank you so much for your help and information. He had so much stuff that unfortunately I know nothing about. Is there a market for servos, airplane plans for scratch build planes or balsa wood?
#924
My Feedback: (6)
There is a market for servos depending on condition and type. Balsa if sold in lots will find buyers if the price is reasonable depending on age and if it was stored correctly.Even those rolled up plans can be sold depending on the designer and the quality of the plans. Have you checked any local clubs to see if there is a member who liquidates R/C Estates? I have a friend in his 70s here locally that does that. I will tell you it can take a lot of time to get everything sold and some stuff won't sell at all. The demand just isn't there any more like it was 10 or 20 years ago. There is a lot of gray hair in our hobby now days. The guys like your husband and our merry band are just not being replaced like they once were. Like everything else in this throw away society we have today there is less repairing and more interest in cheap throw away replacvements.
#925
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: , OH
Posts: 19
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Thank you very much for your reply and information. Unfortunately neither my grandsons or sons in law are interested in my husband's hobbies. He was not into sports that much but always had a hobby duirng our 50+ years of marriage. He went from coin collecting to raising discus tropical fish to r c planes to restoring corvettes. He was always busy with his hands. I appreciate your time and the information you sent me. Being stuck at home during these times has given me time to organize thyese things. Stay healthy and thanks again.