Enya 120
01-22-2011, 05:58 PM
#28
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RE: Enya 120
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
How do you tell the difference from a standard 1.20 Enya from the 1.20 R version? Do both have a black tappet cover? Thanks Capt,n
How do you tell the difference from a standard 1.20 Enya from the 1.20 R version? Do both have a black tappet cover? Thanks Capt,n
The std 120 will have a chrome plated intake manifold and a 11mm threaded exhaust port just like a .91 surpass. The 120R has a larger aluminum intake and a steel fitting threaded into the exhaust port. Held side by side the 120R is much more beefy and rugged looking than the starndard 120.
01-28-2011, 09:33 AM
#31
RE: Enya 120
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Will the Enya 1.20 R fly a 10 pound airplane (wing span about 70 inches) very well? Thanks Capt,n
Will the Enya 1.20 R fly a 10 pound airplane (wing span about 70 inches) very well? Thanks Capt,n
The 1.20 four stroke engines are listed quite often as a substitute for .60 engines in a airplane.
Now looking at how big the .60 size Ugly stick style airplanes have become and they show them with .60 engines for power, ins fascinating. I was checking out the WorldModels .60 Super Stunts plane and it has a huge 80 inch wingspan with like 1330 square inches of wing area, and they suggest a .60 engine for power. So a 1.20 four stroke would likely work even better considering the larger propellers are more efficient. some of the other .60 size stick planes are not much smaller either.
11-07-2021, 08:51 AM
#32
Exhaust 120c thread.
Enya 120c exhaust thread,
Where did you get the 11 x .75 thread, my Enya exhaust is somewhere around 15mm and my 90c is 14mm,
I am looking for the thread so that i can make up an exhaust.
Where did you get the 11 x .75 thread, my Enya exhaust is somewhere around 15mm and my 90c is 14mm,
I am looking for the thread so that i can make up an exhaust.
11-08-2021, 08:39 AM
#34
11-09-2021, 05:49 PM
#35
The engine pictured with the bolt-on exhaust header is an R120-4C which is a completely different engine from the 90-4C and 120-4C. The small block 120 has a threaded header much like the 46, 60, 80, etc. the R120 and R155 are different animals. I don’t know what the thread size/pitch in the muffler is off hand, but perhaps searching Sceptreflight for the R120 review will give you the info you need?
09-11-2023, 05:48 AM
#37
The choke works well. Set the throttle to idle, pull the choke, flip it with the glow off a couple times until you hear it's sniffly wet. Push in the choke rod, set the throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 open attach the glow driver and give it a back flip. If the engine has some time on it it will start right up.
These engines like to be a little rich on the low end to give proper transition. Don't try to get the lowest idle by opening the air bleed too much. The engine will quit when you throttle up if the air bleed is too far open and the high needle is when it belongs. My 155's have the same carb and idle very well inverted with the low end a bit richer than what you may think would be good. They have excellent throttle response. The only thing I had to do was add a Cline regulator to stop siphoning (tank higher than center of carb) and install a make shift velocity stack over the intake to redirect the fuel back into the carb. (there's a good deal of valve overlap and the fuel charge wants to get blown back out of the intake manifold, at least on the 155)
The carb on the Enya four strokes is special. Fuel goes thru the main needle valve into a chamber at the end of the carb barrel. There is a machined area in the aluminum carb body that lines up with a tapered milled slot on the o.d. of the barrel along with a hole in the barrel that leads to the fuel jet. When you open the air bleed it reduces the fuel draw. I think that's how it works.
These engines like to be a little rich on the low end to give proper transition. Don't try to get the lowest idle by opening the air bleed too much. The engine will quit when you throttle up if the air bleed is too far open and the high needle is when it belongs. My 155's have the same carb and idle very well inverted with the low end a bit richer than what you may think would be good. They have excellent throttle response. The only thing I had to do was add a Cline regulator to stop siphoning (tank higher than center of carb) and install a make shift velocity stack over the intake to redirect the fuel back into the carb. (there's a good deal of valve overlap and the fuel charge wants to get blown back out of the intake manifold, at least on the 155)
The carb on the Enya four strokes is special. Fuel goes thru the main needle valve into a chamber at the end of the carb barrel. There is a machined area in the aluminum carb body that lines up with a tapered milled slot on the o.d. of the barrel along with a hole in the barrel that leads to the fuel jet. When you open the air bleed it reduces the fuel draw. I think that's how it works.
09-12-2023, 02:50 AM
#38
If you have fuel stand-off happening, you might remedy it by going to a smaller prop. My R120 makes a big mess if I overprop it. It wants to rev. Depending on which engine you have, it might get pretty tricky to get a velocity stack mounted to it. Mind you, with these engines, a VS might help, but it’s still going to make a mess if the prop load is high.
09-12-2023, 02:58 AM
#39
The engine is on a Seagull Chipmunk, not sure how will it perform with a lighter load prop, say a 15x6.
Yes the 120 R does not seem very conducive to a velocity stack mounting and that's the reason I wanted to see how Planekrazee had done that
Yes the 120 R does not seem very conducive to a velocity stack mounting and that's the reason I wanted to see how Planekrazee had done that
09-12-2023, 03:05 AM
#40
I ran a 14x6 and 15x7 on my R120 and I was unhappy with the mess it made. I dropped to a 13x9 or 13x10 and it was much better. A bit much on the pitch, but for my application, it worked out just fine for performance, and it didn’t spit fuel everywhere. The R120 is better for higher rpm. The regular 120 (.90 sized crankcase) is a little better on bigger props.
I’d love to see a velocity stack on an R120 too, but this old thread may not get a response.
I’d love to see a velocity stack on an R120 too, but this old thread may not get a response.
09-14-2023, 11:23 AM
#42
It is my experience that all 20cc four strokes at sea level work best with the following propeller sizes
14x10 for pylon racers with a span of 165cm, like Quay Barbers Midget Mustang, Pole Cat , Rivets and Shoestring (weight between 4,5-5kg) .I have built and flown all of them.
15x8-16x6 for larger sport planes and scale type planes. I used 16x6 on my "Ole Tiger" racer with a span of 185cm and weight of 5kg , built from plans in MAN in the eighties.
14x10 for pylon racers with a span of 165cm, like Quay Barbers Midget Mustang, Pole Cat , Rivets and Shoestring (weight between 4,5-5kg) .I have built and flown all of them.
15x8-16x6 for larger sport planes and scale type planes. I used 16x6 on my "Ole Tiger" racer with a span of 185cm and weight of 5kg , built from plans in MAN in the eighties.
09-15-2023, 01:21 AM
#43
Engine performance is not an issue in my case. I am extremely satisfied with the engine and prop combo on the model. Just that I am looking to reduce the mess that the fuel reversion is causing.
From advices received here and on other forums, few ideas are taking shape. Let's see what finally works out
From advices received here and on other forums, few ideas are taking shape. Let's see what finally works out
02-15-2024, 01:18 PM
#44
I know may be a too late reply, anyhow on an Enya 53 I made a velocity stack with my 3D printer. I have also some Enya R120 and R155 but sttile NIB so I didn't do yet anythig for them, but eventually I'd do something similar.
Regards,
Paolo
Regards,
Paolo
