CARTERrc

G'day
I have been reading about this crazy muffler. I wnat to know has anyone tried this? Does it work and is it safe. Also what engine size can it go up to.?

Dr1Driver

Nothing crazy about it. Mousse can mufflers started in competition fun fly. We wanted the boost of a tuned pipe withought the peak in the power band and the extra weight. I don't remember who came up with this first. The mousee ca nmuffler will give almost the boost of a pipe, with a smoother power curve. Nothing is critical with the size or construction. I've used them on engines up to .45. .32 series engines use the smaller can, .40 engines use the larger.
**************************
Mousse Can Mufflers got their start in Unlimited Competition Fun Fly, and accomplish two things.
1. They are lighter than either a stock muffler, or a tuned pipe.
2. They provide a pipe-like power boost, but without the peak in the power curve. This was very important to a Fun Flyer when even a one click change in throttle made a large difference and you didn't want all that power coming on at once.

The size of the can is relatively unimportant. If fact, nothing about these cans is critical. I'm using a White Rain (about 1.5" x 4") for my OS.32. An FDS can works well, too, but you might get some funny looks from the sales clerk. A .40 size engine will probably take a standard mousse can (about 1.5" x 6"). Also purchase the header for your engine and a 12" length of brass tubing (about 1/4" for the small engine, and 5/16-3/8" or so for the .40's). I know this sounds small, but you're creating a pressure canister that will boost the mix like a pipe would. You will also need a package of JB Weld, available at Wal-Mart. Now for the assembly:

1. Remove the nozzle of the can and release all the pressure. You might want to do this outside.
2. Using a drill and a sanding drum on a Dremel, open the nozzle end of the can to just slightly under your header diameter. Use needle nose pliers to crimp the edges of the hole outward so the fit on the header is tight.
3. In the center of the other end, drill a tight hole to fit the brass tubing you chose.
4. Scuff the can, header, and tube roughly with sandpaper to create a good surface to glue to.
5. Cut about 1"-1.5" of brass tubing and insert it into the hole about 1/4"-1/2".
6. Mix the JB Weld and apply liberally around the tube/can joint. Let stand for 24 hours, no less, and DON'T move it during that time.
7. Slide the header about 1/2" into the other end and apply the JB Weld. Make sure you get a good fillet here. Let dry following the above instructions.
8. Determine what quadrant of your can will be straight down when the engine is mounted, and drill a 1/16" hole at the rear edge for drainage.
9. Support the can with a fuselage pipe mount as you normally would a pipe.

That's it, sounds hard, but is really easy, and I think you'll like the results.

Dr.1

CARTERrc

With the larger can could the mousse can mufler handle a 120 2 stroke engine or not.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

What is the noise level like? Is it louder or softer than a conventional muffler?

For instance, I have to mount a custom muffler in a scale plane, and this design just might work... but we have some strict noise rules at the field...

I'd appreciate any info that you might have,

Bob

Andrew

The noise level is as low or lower than a conventional muffler, but can be slightly "tinny" -- a little like the tuned pipes on dirt bikes.

They work very well. Here are some construction links:

http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/ConstGuide/MCM.html

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/webmaster01/mcp/mcm.html

http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mufflers/

http://www.swanyshouse.com/moussecan/moussecan.html

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks! I'll have a look...

Bob

Dr1Driver

If the noise level is too high, try this:

Instead of using one larger diameter stinger at the outlet, drill about 12-16 1/16" holes around the rim. This will actually be a little louder and more tinny, but the frequency will be above what most dB meters are weighted for (human ear), so it will seem more quiet.

Dr.1

CARTERrc

With the larger can could the mousse can mufler handle a 120 2 stroke engine or not.

Dr1Driver

Try it and see, CARTERrc. I never used one on anything larger than a .45.

Dr.1

3D Joy

I have one on my OS 160 FX. Seems to have good power but could be more IMO. It is 400-500 rpm less than my old YS 140 DZ on the same prop. Fuel costs are cut in 3 at least so it is OK for me!

Ernie Misner

Also go to Mac's Products tuning page. Lots of good info there on how long (or short) to cut the header length.

Ernie

CARTERrc

G'day
what do you make the header out of? if you don't want to buy one

3D Joy

I fabricated the flange out of scrap 12 Ga steel and bought a light gauge steel pole used to hold window "shades" ?? Not sure of the word but it was a light steel tube that I cut to bend it and soldered back the cutouts. Easy enough to do and save 45$ to boot.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It is much softer than a stock muffler. The boost occurs over a wider rpm range, but the boost is not as great in amplitude as a longer tuned pipe. Still, it is a boost and it does produce a less offensive exhaust note, if built properly.

Look up Bob Adkins articles on mousse can pipes in Google. He posted lengthy articles on mousse can pipe construction some years ago on rec.models.rc.air, on his own webpage and on several online forums, IIRC.

Google search - click on groups, then enter "Bob Adkins, mousse can pipe, rec.models.rc.air"

Ross Kean

The mousse can on the SPAD website http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mufflers/ uses the front half of the muffler as the header. I have tried it and it works well. Nothing extra to buy.