4-stroke engine
#26
There are superchargers for the 2 stroke car motors, but they are mostly for show, not go! If you just want to bling something out to be different, go ahead and waste the $$ on one.
I've seen the O.S. 4 strokes in a 10th scale on road touring car, and while it was fast, it couldn't hang with the 2 strokes...but it did use about half the fuel. He didn't have to refuel but once near the end of a 15 minute main.
I've seen the O.S. 4 strokes in a 10th scale on road touring car, and while it was fast, it couldn't hang with the 2 strokes...but it did use about half the fuel. He didn't have to refuel but once near the end of a 15 minute main.
#28
What the diffenercs between 4-stroke and plane fuel?
I'm looking at running cool power 15% I'm running a OS 70 surpass, (or will be) and need to know if I have to run 4-stroke fuel or will plane fuel work?
I'm looking at running cool power 15% I'm running a OS 70 surpass, (or will be) and need to know if I have to run 4-stroke fuel or will plane fuel work?
#34

My Feedback: (16)
On the Surpass I
The High speed needle valve is on one side of the carb and the low speed is on the opposite side in the center of the throttle arm.
Has a silver valve cover
Throttle arm is steel
Has a breather spud out the bottom of the crankcase
Intake manifold comes down left corner of crankcase. The intake manifold bolts on the head are horizontal.
On the Surpass II
Both the high speed and low speed needle valves are on the opposite side of the throttle arm
Throttle arm is small and plastic
Intake manifold bolts are at a 45 degree angle
Carb sets in the middle of the rear.
Valve cover is black
Has crankcase vented into intake manifold
The crankshaft is cross drilled right behind the cam gear fro oil to get to front area of engine.
Internal steel parts are cadmium plated to prevent rust
Glow plug is recessed 2mm farther down into head. The relieved part of the glow plug protrudes completely into the combustion chamber.
The High speed needle valve is on one side of the carb and the low speed is on the opposite side in the center of the throttle arm.
Has a silver valve cover
Throttle arm is steel
Has a breather spud out the bottom of the crankcase
Intake manifold comes down left corner of crankcase. The intake manifold bolts on the head are horizontal.
On the Surpass II
Both the high speed and low speed needle valves are on the opposite side of the throttle arm
Throttle arm is small and plastic
Intake manifold bolts are at a 45 degree angle
Carb sets in the middle of the rear.
Valve cover is black
Has crankcase vented into intake manifold
The crankshaft is cross drilled right behind the cam gear fro oil to get to front area of engine.
Internal steel parts are cadmium plated to prevent rust
Glow plug is recessed 2mm farther down into head. The relieved part of the glow plug protrudes completely into the combustion chamber.
#36
the engien I'm getting says its a I but it has a black valve cover heres a link to the one I'm getting http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=325720
#37
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
ORIGINAL: JB COMP
well the cool power plane and 4-stroke fuel has the same 17 or 18% oil. so its ok to run plane fuel in a 4-stroke?
has anyone ran cool power?
well the cool power plane and 4-stroke fuel has the same 17 or 18% oil. so its ok to run plane fuel in a 4-stroke?
has anyone ran cool power?
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Yes, in fact, it is preferred these days (is it okay to run plane fuel). Why? Because there is no single standard for defining four-stroke fuel. Some of the early efforts were notoriously low on oil. These days, most engine manufacturers of popular brands recommend at least 18% oil in the mix. Some even specify 20% oil.
If you are running one of the traditional brands of engines, such as OS, Enya, YS or Saito, you most likely will not have any trouble burning dedicated four-stroke fuels. The previously mentioned brands of engines are manufactured using high quality metal alloys that are a bit tolerant to variations in oil type and amount. I would not be so eager to try running dedicated four-stroke fuel in the Chinese four-strokes until after they are well broken-in. Even then I would be "wary".
The trick to burning any fuel successfully is to ensure that your glow engine's high speed needle is set a little on the rich side. With a slightly "wet" setting, a few percent more or less oil, one way or the other, isn't important.
I use just model airplane fuel these days and haven't had a problem in years.
Ed Cregger
#38
ORIGINAL: JB COMP
the engien I'm getting says its a I but it has a black valve cover heres a link to the one I'm getting http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=325720
the engien I'm getting says its a I but it has a black valve cover heres a link to the one I'm getting http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=325720
#40
Ok Thanks.
I read that you have to put oil in the case through the case vent, and is the vent always open? so will dirt get in there? and I also read that you have to put oil on the valve, rocker, and push rods is that true?
I read that you have to put oil in the case through the case vent, and is the vent always open? so will dirt get in there? and I also read that you have to put oil on the valve, rocker, and push rods is that true?
#44

Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Cincinnati,
OH
#45
Ok, got the engine, and I'm wanting to take it apart to check out the inside of the engine.
I need to know if theres anything I need to be careful of when taking it apart, how to put the cam back in if I take it out, what kind of oil could I use in the case (culd I use after run oil) do I need the oil the valves, and is the OS "F" plug the only 4-stroke or are there others?
I need to know if theres anything I need to be careful of when taking it apart, how to put the cam back in if I take it out, what kind of oil could I use in the case (culd I use after run oil) do I need the oil the valves, and is the OS "F" plug the only 4-stroke or are there others?
#46
Senior Member
My Feedback: (19)
Does it have good compression? If so, pull the back plate. If it's clean, put about a tablespoon of SAE40 motor oil in there and close it up. Pull the valve cover and check the clearance. Put a couple drops of same oil down the pushrod tubes and on the touching moving parts. If it's a mess inside let us know what you see, a pic would be good.
Use OS F plugs. There are others, but I wouldn't bother.
Use OS F plugs. There are others, but I wouldn't bother.
#48
I did a test run and it ran great.
I guess I'll take it aprat tomorrow and see what it looks like inside. it has ok compression, probably rebuild it next year.
is there anything that I need to watch out for when taking it apart? and do I have to take the valves off to take the head off?
I guess I'll take it aprat tomorrow and see what it looks like inside. it has ok compression, probably rebuild it next year.
is there anything that I need to watch out for when taking it apart? and do I have to take the valves off to take the head off?



