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ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Old 10-24-2021, 04:05 PM
  #3326  
darkith
 
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Originally Posted by coderman
Would anybody happen have a spare cylinder liner and piston ring, or at least cylinder liner kicking around? I think the liner and piston from the FS80 will work on this engine as well. One of the liners is badly scored from debris in the engine sadly; restored everything else to 'like new' condition but can't get around the scratched up liner unfortunately!
Try JustEngines, they seem to have some parts left. If that fails, I believe I have a cylinder liner.
Old 10-24-2021, 05:21 PM
  #3327  
coderman
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Thanks Darkith. I've emailed JustEngines to check, and I'll see what they say tomorrow. If nothing surfaces, hopefully you don't mind if I PM you and offer you some money for the liner
Old 10-25-2021, 05:05 AM
  #3328  
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Originally Posted by coderman
Thanks Darkith. I've emailed JustEngines to check, and I'll see what they say tomorrow. If nothing surfaces, hopefully you don't mind if I PM you and offer you some money for the liner
Hey allDoes anyone here know if the exhaust ring offered for the Asp 400 radial on JustEngines site fits the OS FR300 radial original ?
Old 10-25-2021, 05:26 AM
  #3329  
1967brutus
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No idea, probably not a direct fit. But it is a really simple construction (5 straight pipes, sliding over the original pipes of the engine, sealed with pieces of HT Silicone tubing) and if you provide them with accurate info on the relevant dimensions of your sirius, pretty sure they can set you up with one.

Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
Old 10-25-2021, 05:46 AM
  #3330  
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
No idea, probably not a direct fit. But it is a really simple construction (5 straight pipes, sliding over the original pipes of the engine, sealed with pieces of HT Silicone tubing) and if you provide them with accurate info on the relevant dimensions of your sirius, pretty sure they can set you up with one.

Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
Thanks BrutusHaven't been successful at finding an OEM ring for my Sirius FR300. It is a favorite every day motor, the open headers sound great, but spit exhaust all over the biplane they are in front of lol.
No complaints here though.... They sound great either way!
Old 10-25-2021, 06:17 AM
  #3331  
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You're welcome, hope you'll find something!
Old 05-18-2023, 12:30 PM
  #3332  
tim750r
 
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Default Bearing change

Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...

I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.

Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?

Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.

Cheers
Old 05-18-2023, 03:40 PM
  #3333  
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Originally Posted by tim750r
Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...

I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.

Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?

Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.

Cheers
I took all my inside seals off. If I recall mine had seals on the inside from factory. A while ago now ,but I was getting good at putting model engine housings in the oven ..180c? .one tap ,and falls out.Likewise after cleaning ,heat up drop new bearing in. let cool naturally
Old 05-18-2023, 07:04 PM
  #3334  
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Originally Posted by nige69
Thanks for that info Darkith.

My Ziroli 77" Stearman is probably going to come in close to 10kg (22 lb) but hoping I'm over estimating. I have weighted my test stand and then the fuselage with wings, wheels etc and it is about 20lb

I have run the motor with the vent plugged and unplugged. I feel more comfortable running it with it plugged as like you seeing the oil ooze out from around the push rod tubes gives me a bit of piece of mind.

I have been thinking of drilling the valve covers on each side, putting pressure nipples in and linking them all with tubing. It would allow us to add oil into all the rockers and if you vent this instead of the crank then that would allow more oil to make its way up the push rod tubes. It also adds a bit more scale realism
Just looking back at this thread. Did you fly the Ziroli at 20 lbs with the ASP successfully? I fly a 12.5 lb Stearman with my FR 300 on glo and it has plenty of power. I bought a 77 inch PT -17 recently (unflown) with a never run FR 300 also on glo. I am afraid the 300 will be to light even on glo to safely fly it. It's around 21 lbs auw. How does yours fly at 20 lbs?
Thanks. Aaron (hyjinx)

Old 05-18-2023, 09:13 PM
  #3335  
1967brutus
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Originally Posted by tim750r
Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...

I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.

Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?

Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.

Cheers
Since I never opened my own AR400, can't help you on the idler gear bearing.
But I can tell you this: there is zero advantage in removing the inner seal of the front bearing. That bearing is greased for life, and all that that seal removal is going to do, is give the acidic combustion residue from running fuel containing Nitro a better access to the innards of that bearing. There is not all that much flow in that location, so not much "fresh" oil either. It won't improve lubrication, it won't improve bearing life and the gain in RPM really is totally negligable.

Better leave it in place. The difference won't be shocking, but even a little bit better, still is "better".
Old 05-19-2023, 04:27 AM
  #3336  
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
Since I never opened my own AR400, can't help you on the idler gear bearing.
But I can tell you this: there is zero advantage in removing the inner seal of the front bearing. That bearing is greased for life, and all that that seal removal is going to do, is give the acidic combustion residue from running fuel containing Nitro a better access to the innards of that bearing. There is not all that much flow in that location, so not much "fresh" oil either. It won't improve lubrication, it won't improve bearing life and the gain in RPM really is totally negligable.

Better leave it in place. The difference won't be shocking, but even a little bit better, still is "better".
I agree. With a caveat. Recently on all re bearing projects I stopped removing shields. I now only source bearings from high end suppliers mfd in Germany Japan and USA. The sealed for life is a good recommendation unless using lesser quality Chinese imports. According to the manufacturers listed. And for the reasons you state. Just passing on what I was told by Motion Industries, my new source...
I did my FR-300 a few years ago with OEM Japan bearings throughout. Have lots of trouble free hours on it since with 15/15 home brew Klotz techaplate..
In it. It weeps a little lightly rust stained oil from the base pushrod tubes in the winter but I don't freak out about it. The cams replaced (OEM) are unplated from the factory. I don't believe the wear trails are being degraded substantially.. the light rust is coming from the sides I believe. Flip starts and runs great with tons of power. Everyday flyer. I use it as a warm up before my bigger planes , with bigger radials lol.
Old 05-19-2023, 04:29 AM
  #3337  
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Old 05-20-2023, 12:44 PM
  #3338  
1967brutus
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx
I agree. With a caveat. Recently on all re bearing projects I stopped removing shields. I now only source bearings from high end suppliers mfd in Germany Japan and USA. The sealed for life is a good recommendation unless using lesser quality Chinese imports. According to the manufacturers listed. And for the reasons you state. Just passing on what I was told by Motion Industries, my new source...
I did my FR-300 a few years ago with OEM Japan bearings throughout. Have lots of trouble free hours on it since with 15/15 home brew Klotz techaplate..
In it. It weeps a little lightly rust stained oil from the base pushrod tubes in the winter but I don't freak out about it. The cams replaced (OEM) are unplated from the factory. I don't believe the wear trails are being degraded substantially.. the light rust is coming from the sides I believe. Flip starts and runs great with tons of power. Everyday flyer. I use it as a warm up before my bigger planes , with bigger radials lol.
I took the "good quality bearings" as a given: I don't see the point replacing beartings then skimping on the quality of those bearings.
SKF, FAG, NSK, Nitto, all good, anything else, I first use google.
Old 05-20-2023, 03:17 PM
  #3339  
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
I took the "good quality bearings" as a given: I don't see the point replacing beartings then skimping on the quality of those bearings.
SKF, FAG, NSK, Nitto, all good, anything else, I first use google.
With ya again on that. I started the hobby with Boca in Florida. Decent people but all chiensium products. Haven't had any known failures with any of their "upgraded'" stainless steel and or ceramic part numbers but even still. Not wanting to support a communist antagonist with slave labor.
Years ago I got Harley bearings from a supplier known as Detroit Ball Bearing. Forgot about them. Another friend in the hobby reminded me about that . Now known as Motion Industries in my area. Shipping all the best to me at twice the price, but happy to pay it.
Aaron-
Old 05-20-2023, 11:47 PM
  #3340  
1967brutus
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No offense, but I don't think this is the place to be political...

Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
Old 05-21-2023, 04:14 AM
  #3341  
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
No offense, but I don't think this is the place to be political...

Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
No offense taken. Not meant to be political. Just supportive of trade partners with clean records on civil rights and hope to patronize businesses that support local economy and fair trade partners. politics are a dark and muddy water lol. Correct, probably not for a hobby forum.
Same experience for me. Measure first or be sometimes disappointed with part number equivalent. Lol
Flying the FR-300 today, hope you get out too. Fair winds and happy landings B 67 . 🙂
Old 05-21-2023, 09:06 AM
  #3342  
1967brutus
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx
No offense taken. Not meant to be political. Just supportive of trade partners with clean records on civil rights and hope to patronize businesses that support local economy and fair trade partners.
Nothing wrong with that, really, I normally do that too, but...
politics are a dark and muddy water lol. Correct, probably not for a hobby forum.
this^^^^...
Same experience for me. Measure first or be sometimes disappointed with part number equivalent. Lol
Flying the FR-300 today, hope you get out too. Fair winds and happy landings B 67 . 🙂
Thanks. Today however was a "bike day"...
Old 05-22-2023, 03:34 AM
  #3343  
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Thanks for all the useful comments.

After a clean-out my cam idler gear bearings look and feel pretty decent so I'm just going to change out the front & rear main bearings which I can source fairly easily as SKF branded :-) To be honest they don't feel too bad either but now they're out I might as well, and they're really not 'that' expensive compared to the value of the engine to me, in my opinion.

The reason I stripped the engine down in the first place is because after a lengthy period of storage where the engine was treated to after-run and then stored in a polythene bag for several years, it was completely stuck solid. On dissassembly I found all the link pins and wrist pins had stuck solidly in both ends of the connecting rods and the master rod small end. They weren't rusty as such, but quite black in places. Eventually a good dousing in WD40 and some gentle heat persuaded it all to start moving enough to get it apart. There was some moderate rust however on the crank web so I feared the worst about how the cam and its gearing might be, but once the front housing was off to my relief the cam and gears look really good. The gears are black so I assume they're treated in some way?

I'm hoping to put this engine into regular service as long as it all goes back together and I think I'll probably remove the back and liberally oil it at the end of each season to preserve it.
Old 05-25-2023, 04:16 AM
  #3344  
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Does anyone have any push rod tubes? I could use about 4.
Old 05-30-2023, 02:27 AM
  #3345  
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Originally Posted by keathebch
Does anyone have any push rod tubes? I could use about 4.
Just Engines in the UK still have them listed...

https://www.justengines.co.uk/shop/e...v=79cba1185463
Old 05-30-2023, 06:41 AM
  #3346  
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Thank You

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