RCU Forums - Engine Bearings???

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RE: Engine Bearings???

Quote:

ORIGINAL: James c harrell

Well I ran her yesterday with the new bearings and all. Tuning was a little rough. Not knowing the initial start points on the carb and all. Got it close and ran it pretty easy untill it did something it has never done before. Right off the launch I punched it to check the hole shot and it did a complete back-flip. Well almost a complete one. I brought it back up to shore and did the whole dry it out thing and decided to call it a day. When I got it home I decided to see just how much was still in it so I pulled the carb and back plate and sure enough it still had water in it. Point being that in order for me to get all the water and mess out this is what I will do. Four screws on the backplate,don't have to remove the carb and I can see the entire crankcase rod and all, dry it out good and put in a little 3 and 1 and put it back together. I can do this with the motor installed so it really isn't that bad. As for the origional post about ceramic bearings, I love them. I have never seen a motor turn this smooth and free with absolutely no slop. If the extra labor helps keep it that way, so be it! My son says I am getting "anal" but he can't deny it is worth it to see this thing go across the river at 70!! The O.S. 81 in this one turns hard and runs in the worst conditions I can think of for a 2-stroke to run in so extra maintenance should be expected I guess.

Glad to hear you got it all figured out!!!

RE: Engine Bearings???

I use Mobil 1 OW20 in my engines, because some of them have silicone parts, and the Mobil has never done any damage to them. It is also Used by many serious YS fliers.

RE: Engine Bearings???

Not all figured out by any means but I think I am catching on.

RE: Engine Bearings???

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Iflyglow

I use Mobil 1 OW20 in my engines, because some of them have silicone parts, and the Mobil has never done any damage to them. It is also Used by many serious YS fliers.

In time it may hurt the silicone parts . Mobil 1 is no longer a true class 4 synthetic but it is now "hydrocracked" from good'ol dino juice. In fact Europe it cannot be labeled synthetic, only in the US where the lobbying dollars get traction it can be so labeled. Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, and a few others are true synthetics.

As for my cars, I was a loyal Mobil 1 user for many years, no more based on my same engine comparative used oil analysis, any of the three trues above, yes. If your engine is well broken in, good shape and do 35K miles a year, it's Amsoil. If not, a 12K or 1 yr drain interval. If in warranty, I'd follow the manual tho Amsoil may say differently.

RE: Engine Bearings???

Ohhh, where to start...

AMSOIL meets or exceeds all manufacturers warranty requirements.

Stainless steel bearings aren't significantly softer than bearing steel, maybe 1-2 Rockwell points.

440c stainless steel needs to be exposed to oxygen (air) to remain stainless.

You will have a VERY hard time finding chrome plated bearings!

I use any brand of air tool oil as they all do the same thing: displace water from the metal and protect against corrosion.

I have some bearings that I took out of an engine over 10 years ago and let them sit on the shelf while I was in the UK (HUMIDITY!). They would not rust. They came out of an engine that ran a castor/synthetic oil.

For YS engines, you can use Redline synthetic oils as they are still diester based. I do not have any WD40 anywhere near my house. Almost ANYTHING is better.

Penetrating lubricants also strip off the good oils left from the fuel. Their oil isn't nearly as good for film strength.

RE: Engine Bearings???

Quote:

ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings

Ohhh, where to start...

AMSOIL meets or exceeds all manufacturers warranty requirements.

Stainless steel bearings aren't significantly softer than bearing steel, maybe 1-2 Rockwell points.

440c stainless steel needs to be exposed to oxygen (air) to remain stainless.

You will have a VERY hard time finding chrome plated bearings!

I use any brand of air tool oil as they all do the same thing: displace water from the metal and protect against corrosion.

I have some bearings that I took out of an engine over 10 years ago and let them sit on the shelf while I was in the UK (HUMIDITY!). They would not rust. They came out of an engine that ran a castor/synthetic oil.

For YS engines, you can use Redline synthetic oils as they are still diester based. I do not have any WD40 anywhere near my house. Almost ANYTHING is better.

Penetrating lubricants also strip off the good oils left from the fuel. Their oil isn't nearly as good for film strength.

3in1 won't harm my ceramics right?

RE: Engine Bearings???

No. The silicon nitride ceramic balls are pretty much impervious to anything we would ever handle.

RE: Engine Bearings???

Except vibration hammering :)

RE: Engine Bearings???

Quote:

by the way why in the world would you let your motor sit to let the fuel dry out?? all that will happen is the methanol in the fuel will attract more moisture!!!

The engine is not air tight so the methanol will attract moisture. If you run the engine dry, and leave the pistion at the bottom of its stroke or the rotory valve is open, then most ofthe remaining methanol will dry out in an hour or two.