Starters
 

Gentlemen, I need to see what the real world is using for starters. My starter just died and I want to get what is proven out in the field.

I am running ys91 and ys110 4 strokes, and they have killed my starter. What is a good dependable starter for 4 strokes that can take
their power. Is sullivan any good? I would love to hear your recommendations and suggestions.

Thanking you all in advance

I love the sound of 4 stokes in the morning!

RE: Starters
 

I'm using the Super Starter (3:1 geared) from Pacific Aero on my YS 91's and YS 110's with great success:

http://www.warbirdobsession.com/starters/pic02.jpg

http://www.warbirdobsession.com/starters/pic04.jpg

http://www.warbirdobsession.com/starters/pic05.jpg

http://www.warbirdobsession.com/starters/pic08.jpg

This starter can start up a YS 160 or a Saito 180.

RE: Starters
 

I have a Sullivan Dynatron and it is shown in a picture with the big Tower starter. As you can see it is much bigger.

The starters are the same diameter but in the picture, the Tower/Hobbico appears larger in diameter.

The Dynatron seems much higher quality.

Enjoy,

Jim

RE: Starters
 

I have the Sullivan "Hi-Tork" and it cranks my big Saito engines with no problem.

Bill.

RE: Starters
 

I've had a Sullivan for years. Cranks my boat engines (which have way more compression than the typical plane engine) just fine. The switch went bad about a year and a half ago. Replacement from Sullivan cost about $10, including shipping. Not bad for a starter I bought over 20 years ago.

RE: Starters
 

I still use my trusty wooden brush handle if not its a backflip or still my finger (not recommended for just anyone) to start. After so many years I have yet to get a nick. I find that an engine will start up well if you prime her properly. Something like perhaps 5 turns or just squirt some fuel into the carb. I only got an electric starter when I bought a 4 stroke ... I tent to flood it and she will start in reverse all day!

Oh yes ... try not the buy the cheap Taiwanese made starters, they will start to give problems are like 6 months of heavy duty use. You need to adjust to bolts at the end to ensure there is no friction.

RE: Starters
 

I rebuilt a Sullivan "High Tork" switch for a friend at the field last year. Model fuel had softened the foam rubber isolator in the switch. The starter wanted to run all the time and get hot. I put some new foam in between the contact plates. It was still working fine last week.

Enjoy,

Jim

RE: Starters
 

I use a Magnum geared starter with two 6-cell 3400 mah NiMH car packs wired in series (14.4 volts). So far, this starter has handled everything I tried including a 1.20 Enya, 1.80 Moki, Saito R325 5 cyl radial and a 34cc gas engine. Unit is light weight and portable and the batteries can be fast charged at the field if necessary. I have been using this setup for the last 4 years with no starter problems whatever.

Works for me.

Dan

RE: Starters
 

I'm also using two 6-cell 3300 mAH NiMH car battery packs wired in series (14.4V), as seen in the pictures in post #2 above. The nice thing about using car packs is that they can be swapped out for higher capacity packs later down the road if needed.

RE: Starters
 

I use to have one of these Tower Safety Sticks but they are cheap and break easy. Get a "high torque" stick by cutting off the end of a broom handle and put some heat shrink on the end of it.:D

RE: Starters
 

My favorite is the Kavan. It is appreciably smaller than most others yet, due to the gearing, will easily start anything up to and including the G26. On any starter though, be sure and use a battery capable of delivering the required current and use short heavy gage wires.

RE: Starters
 

A golf club handle makes a great chicken stick for large engines.

RE: Starters
 

Well, off to "Goodwill!"

RE: Starters
 

Well, after 25+ years of modeling, I still use my trusty fingers. They are gloved of course. 1/2 A thru 1.8's. I do all my break in and testing on a bench so hopefully once it's in the plane, they usually work very well.

John

RE: Starters
 

Sullivan by far is the best. Tried to use Tower and they were enemic even using a car battery to run them. My Sully "Hi-Torq" can not be beat, starts 91s like they are 1/2 A's.

Cheers,

Chip

RE: Starters
 

A Sullivan Dynatron is the way to go.

RE: Starters
 

I tried starting my Brison 2.4 (39cc) gasser today with my starter shown on Post #2 above, and it started the engine just fine. I didn't think it had enough torque at first, but it cranked it right over.

RE: Starters
 

The bearing on my Sullivan starter has finally worn out. I have changed bearings on engines many times, but I can't figure how to take this baby apart. I'd like to give it a try before giving up. I just can't figure how to remove the armature from the housing. Any tips?
Thanks,

Cajuncharley

RE: Starters
 

Wayne,


Just forget it!

I have a Sullivan Hi-Torque in my flight box, yet it had been used in the last 10 years only by other people.


I don't have a YS that some say needs a starter, but I believe any engine will start by hand; not even with a 'chicken stick' if set up correctly. Back-flipping is my method for all glow engines, two and four-stroke.

RE: Starters
 

Have a Sullivan Dynatron for almost 12 years. It started everything that has been thrown at it so far. The biggest has been a Saito 300 twin on 18 cells. They take up to 24V.

The kavans are very good as well and lightweight, however in my experience they can't start helis.

RE: Starters
 

YS engines have some sort of a fuel pump/regulator built into the engine. Some people give their YS engines a brief spin with an electric starter to pressurize the fuel tank and get fuel to the carb and then connect the glow battery and give the spinner a back flip by hand to actually start the engine.

RE: Starters
 

I have two Sullivans, a DynaTron and a HiTorque, the HiTorque has a wand installed to start RCVs. My Hobbico 180 has a four to one Miller reduction on it to start Gasoline engines. The Hobbico 180 would not start my High Compression Saito 1.50 but runs the belt reduction just fine. The DynaTron is a high timer that I have torn down and cleaned and lubed the bearings a couple of times. It whirls my Saito 2.20 fine if I back the engine back against the compression stroke.

RE: Starters
 

I finally got the Sullivan starter disassembled thinking I had to replace the front ball bearing. Guess what? it has a bronze bushing, not a ball bearing. So I lubricated it and reassembled it. I reversed the bushing and since I lubed it, it does run better (the shaft does not have nearly as much play). I plan to use it until it just gives out! It will probably last another 10+ years or so.

RE: Starters
 

For 30 years I refused to get an electric starter because I saw to many whimpy starters and batteries. Seem the only thing that seemed to work well required garden tractor battery that weighed a ton added to all the other things in an already heavy flight box. I now have a starter after I saw this setup in RCU. Maybe a little over kill but by god I don't want for more power!!! This box is capable of 12 or 24 volts and my Sullivan Dynatron starter fits inside the case between the batteries. Check out post #9


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_35...tm.htm#3552339

RE: Starters
 

I'll second the Pacific Aero starter. I've been using both the smaller and superstarter for about 5 years hooked up to my 12 volt field box battery and have had no problems with either one. Very well made, light and compact, with plenty of grunt. I can't comment on how they would be repaired, if ever needed. Also have one of their field boxes with their power panel which has held up well for 5 years. All Pacific Aero products are very good quality, you should at least check them out.

Blue Skies, Green Lights