RE: First glow engine
 

Yes...new engine. I've run about a 1/2 gallon through it. SIG Champion syn blend 15%

RE: First glow engine
 

G'day Mate,
Move the tank up, it should be straight behind the motor, then all your problems will go away.
Also what size prop are you using on that motor, I would run no smaller than a 12x6.

RE: First glow engine
 

then you can do what proptop says and that should make it run better, and after about two gallon if your not getting good transisiition then you will have to also lean the low speed a little too! i usually just idle mine and screw in the low end about 1/8th turn at a time till it dies then open it up about 1/4 turn ande you will be real close.then do the high end all over again like proptop said;)

RE: First glow engine
 

Half a gal. is enough run through it for break-in...
Personally, I start leaning it out during the 2nd and 3rd tanks...

It should have substantially more power too, after you get the carb adjusted properly!:D

I was going to ask you what size prop you have on it too...

Bet that air boat will really get going, huh? Probably go well on snow too [8D]

RE: First glow engine
 

I cant move the tank, the rudders are in the way. I'm running a 12 x 6 APC sport prop.

RE: First glow engine
 

12 X 6 APC is a great prop on that engine...not too much or too little.

I like your sig...it sounds familiar...is it from a cartoon, or movie?

RE: First glow engine
 

While It's running?????
Haven't had it in the snow yet, but yea preliminary results on the lawn.....moves right out!

RE: First glow engine
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: crispyspa


[b]While It's running?????[/b


not if your shakey

RE: First glow engine
 

G'day Mate,
You MUST move the tank, or you will always have trouble trying to get that motor to run properly, move your rudders apart, to allow for the tank, then put 2 wooden rails where the motor bolts on, bolt the motor to them, also make em long enough to sit the tank on, & use a few rubber bands to hold it in place.

Me thinks a bit more homework would not have gone astray.

RE: First glow engine
 

I usually adjust the idle WITHOUT it running...just turn it 1/8 of a turn at a time, and re-start and check it out.

Get somebody to hang on to that sucker for ya if necessary while running it wide open and adj. the high speed...props can be nasty! ('course you prob. already know that, aye!:eek::D )

RE: First glow engine
 

Is there any way that I can have the tank where it is? Higher tank means higher center of gravity= less stable.

RE: First glow engine
 

You could use a Perry pump/regulator, or a Cline or Iron Bay regulator.

RE: First glow engine
 

O.k. O Googled those pumps and the perry seems to me to be the best bet........but it works off pressure from the exhaust (If I read correctly) Which brings us back to the original question, oil clogging the tube.

RE: First glow engine
 

Actually, the Perry requires a press. fitting be drilled/tapped into the backplate (usually the backplate, but sometimes you can replace the upper left backplate screw with a pressure fitting ) to give the proper pulses to the diaphram.

RE: First glow engine
 

Sorry...I re-read, they use crankcase pressure. Uhhhhh. Do I drill a hole in the crankcase?

RE: First glow engine
 

The use of a Perry pump also eliminates the need for a press. line from the muffler...so that problem would be eliminated!:D

RE: First glow engine
 

Hmmmm.[sm=72_72.gif] I suppose that I would have to leave a short section of tubing on the tank anyway to keep the tank vented?

RE: First glow engine
 

Yep...but you could coil it to keep (or try to ) water out.

RE: First glow engine
 

Thanks everyone! I'll look around for a pump, maybe the local hobby shop that I bought the engine from has one. *fingers crossed* I'll update as soon as I get it running.

RE: First glow engine
 

Realisticly, I would manufacture some kind of housing to hold your tank above the engine, and muffler, and then use a bit of counter weight to correct for the change in CG. All the fuel tubing just screams problems to me. A lot of the guys at my field come to me for tuning problems. Some say I have an ear for it. I've tuned other pilots engine from across the pits just by listening.

It sounds a lot to me like you are rich. Odds are when you go to full WOT your engine blubbers and probably sounds strained. (A low, deep tone that just seems like is has no power.) Run the engine to WOT, then start to slowly turn the HIGH speed needle closed, a CLICK AT A TIME. You should start to hear the engine rev up. At some point, as you close the high speed needle, the engine will begin to rev down, when that happens, reverse direction and open the throttle using the same CLICK AT A TIME method until you find the happy hum range of the motor. There will be a definite change in tone. When you find that happy place, open the high speed needle two or three clicks more. This ensures a slightly rich configuration for your engine.

Also, I never tune the low end needle before the high speed needle. Make sure the engine will run at WOT first. Once the high speed is set, close the throttle and let the engine try to come to idle. Some engines may return to idle, some may stay on the high speed needle, and some may die.

Typically, high speed needle adjustments don't effect low speed needle adjustments. However, the same is not true for low speed effecting high speed.

If the engine dies, and sounds like it revs up first, the low speed needle is too lean. Open it up, WITH THE ENGINE OFF an eighth of a turn, restart the engine, go to WOT, then return to idle. Repeat this procedure until an idle is achieved.

If the engine blubbers, stutters, coughs, then dies, the low speed needle may be too rich, and you are flooding the carb. Close the low speed needle an eighth of a turn, restart the engine, go to WOT, then go to idle. Repeat until an idle is achieved.

Situations where the engine just won't slow down after you go to idle is a little harder to diagnose. A combination of working with the high speed needle and the low speed needle is usually required. I have found that the high speed needle is too rich and the low speed needle is too lean, or vice versa. Those ar my favorite times for tuning. I usually close the high speed needle and the low speed needle and then back both out to around one and a half to two turns open.

Try your engine and tank mounted in line with each other with the tank just a bit higher then the bottom of the crank case. That might make a difference in the oil problem. You may even be able to zip tie it to your crossbar and cantilevers for your rudders.

Hope some of this info can help you out. PM me for anymore indepth info.

RE: First glow engine
 

Also turn your muffler s outlet pipe more towards the ground.That allows no fuel pool anymore to clog the nipple.

RE: First glow engine
 

Vertigo,
Thanks for the info, I'm going to print it off for reference. One question, how long do I wait between "clicks" before giving another click? As I was trying to tune it before it just seemed to me that the adjustments were taking a long time to effect the engine. On a gasser, adjustments are quick and you notice them right away.

RE: First glow engine
 

If the current needle setting is reeaallyy rich, you'll be there all day if you go 1 click at a time.
Don't be afraid of turning it in...just bring the r.p.m. to it's peak quickly, and then just as quickly richen it a little bit to bring the max r.p.m. down a few hundred.

RE: First glow engine
 

Proptop is right. If it is really rich, one click at a time is gonna kill you. Don't be afraid to turn the needle. Play with it, you'll learn a lot more playing with it long before you even get close to hurting the engine.

As far as tuning the needle, you should notice a difference almost immediately if you are in a range where adjustments will make a difference. If you are way out of adjustments, it will take a long time.

RE: First glow engine
 

The local hobby shop ordered a perry regulator pump for me today. I think that this might be the best thing considering the length of fuel tube I have. I shouldn't have to move the tank. I'm going to wait until it's hooked up before I try to tune the carb.
Again... thanks for all the advise. If anyone is interested...when I get a video of it, I'll post it.