Hello everyone, does anyone have any pushrod covers they can let go of. . I need a least 4
Thanks

The bottom cylinders seem to stop running, at idle without the glow driver. attached. and you will probably need to run a built in glow driver, that you can adjust to come on with a low throttle setting

This website, RCU, is merely a shell of it's former self. People are chatting up like always, but in a different location. And then there is Facebook, which has User Groups but they are a PITA because they do not use forums. so a post you make will be buried and impossible to find a few days later. Anyway, I probably cannot mention the link to a competing website. So if you are so inclined, do a search for "model airplane engine forum" and you should be able to find an active one. ;)

Hi Guys

I dug out my 'retired' radial a few months ago to run it up and flush out all the castor. I then flew it a few times to just give it some air but it ran like a dog and i could barely keep the cylinders lit at any throttle setting.

Being bored one rainy afternoon i took it apart and found a variety of problems. 2 loose rocker adjustors, one rocker retaining clip missing, dead bearings, leaking valves, and of the 3 screws holding the cam drum together one was broken and two were loose so i had variable valve timing!

As it was ruined and a right mess i decided to do what i always wanted. Strip it right down, clean everything and attack it with the shot blaster here at work to make it all beautiful. The idea was that if it didnt run right i could stuff it and mount it as a display item. I repainted the cylinders with engine enamel, painted the rocker covers and even did the enamel on the name tag. Once suitably beautified it was on to the mechanical side. New twin ring pistons stolen from dead Laser 75's, new bearings, valves polished and seats re ground, cylinders brush honed, all the O rings in the intake replaced.

Once together it looks lovely, and the moment of truth arrived..

Starting the engine for the first time showed immediate improvement. The engine was significantly louder with a real bang from each cylinder instead of a wimpy little phutt. Opening the throttle gave and immediate sense of the improvement as the engine sounded really crisp. Up to full power and heavens above its got some go! Power on all props tested so far is 400rpm higher than ever before and for the first time the engine now runs reliably at idle with no glow support. Throttle response is excellent and its easier to tune with really good compression that i have never had before. In general, its now a complete animal and i was recording 7800rpm on a menz 20x8 (7400 previously) and 6800 on a 21x8 (barely 6300 before). The sound is so different with a real bark to the exhaust note. All of a sudden, the engine runs as it should. All it needed was completely rebuilding and half its innards replacing

I will try and shoot a video sometime soon. In the meanwhile there is a photo at the link below. I do have the 5th rocker cover, it just needed another coat of paint :)

Attachment 2267223

nice, ill send mine over to you for a rebuild on a rainy day :-)

I have rebuilt mine so many times i can almost do it in my sleep!

That is awesome Jon! Well done! Looking forward to the video and listening to the bark! :D

Made some more noise :)

Edit

Oops, small error on the video....

Edit again

Fixed it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct-Z...ature=youtu.be

Push rod tubes/Parts
 

Hi everyone, i am trying to locate some pushrod tubes used or new, or a substitute, I have cross referenced OS with no luck there so far. Thanks

One of these might fit:

https://www.ebay.com/i/164209712411?chn=ps

https://www.amainhobbies.com/pushrod...966100/p655034

https://www.ebay.com/p/1201483871?iid=252802884323

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=OSMG7412

what thread is used on ASP FS400AR propellor shaft?

3/8x24 unf i think

Well ,hello everbody. Its Kym from Australia here again. I think it was around 2013 !!! since I posted ,but have looked in from time to time.
Believe it or not I got my 400r out off storage to get it going again. If you remember it was mounted on an ESM 85" Corsair, the whole setup flew ok ...but was severely underpowered. It was around 15kg!! So parked it all up .Corsair is still waiting.
So, the 400 sounded clicky when turning over..cam followers I suspected. So pulled it all apart. Yes the dreaded rust ,same as the photos here, I've seen. Cleaned up good ,replaced bearings. All smooth now.
NOW.. the big question. Will this motor run if its timing gear is out by 1 tooth?? When I reassembled and matched the timing dots, to me, 1 of those dots was not quite in the valley on the tooth. I wish I took photos. I took my best educated guess as to which way to go . Even though I have to run again and check it out , I got it to rev out at 4500rpm, at the most ,on a 20x8, and it idled just ok.
Would it still run if out by 1 tooth? Or not at all? Thanks guys ,I will try and get it in a plane and get my camera out!

Hi Kim,

I think you might be tooth the wrong way. t should rev higher than 4500 on that prop. Mine running on petrol with a 21x12 prop will rev to 6000

Hi Nige ,Yeah has always revved higher until I started fidling with it .I am going to run it again sometime,then make a decision to strip down again.

All good ,mixed a new batch of fuel, Give it a good run on a tank ,slowly tuning it as I went . Got it back to just over 6600 on a 20x8 .Must have got all timing dots aligned up afterall.( thank goodness)
So now just have to wait for Seagull Models to start producing the 103" Morane Saulnier later in the year ,and I'm getting one.

That is still really slow. My engine does 8000 on a 20x8 master airscrew and at least 7500 on a menz 20x8. Sounds like you are down a cylinder at least.

Yeah ,I looked at my previous post (88), where I done this test. I can see a few years back ,I was getting 7700rpm,on that very prop.
I still need to see whats going on. Im sure its running all cylinders,But will check this out too. So.. could timing still be out??

10% nitro
Hawk 20x8- 7700- 8.21kg thrust
Hawk 21x8 7140- 9.6 kg
Austars 20x10- 7100- 8.17kg
Austars 22x10 6420- 9.32kg
Xaor 21x8 7200- 9.8kg
Xaor 21x10 6570- 9.71kg

20% nitro
austars 22x10 6750 - 9.75kg
JXF 21x10 6300 - 7.8kg
Turnigy 20x12 7150 - 8.1kg broad blade

Do you use an exhauts ring and if so do you run a pipe back into the tank for preasure?

He AlL appreciate all the good information on this motor I have a question looks like one of you might know. As these engines are knockoffs of the OS serious engines will parts Fergie ask models fit the Sirius (OS) engines, especially the exhaust ring?
I I just repaired my Sirius fr5 300 and some of the engine parts were obsolete. I was able to get them from Japan from the factory (great folks) but there was limited nos. And they had no exhaust rings. In internal pictures the engines look identical. Thanks fellow radial enthusiasts!

Yes ,I run A Keleo ring with pressure nipple. I still have'nt re run it yet ,but I will be for sure- Kym

I made my own ring with nipple but found it almost impossible to tune with tank pressure. :confused:

When I ran it in a Corsair,I had the ring then,in fact those figures was with ring and tank pressure.I thought someone mentioned this ,I read in these posts somewhere. Is only a tiny carb .

Would anybody happen have a spare cylinder liner and piston ring, or at least cylinder liner kicking around? I think the liner and piston from the FS80 will work on this engine as well. One of the liners is badly scored from debris in the engine sadly; restored everything else to 'like new' condition but can't get around the scratched up liner unfortunately!

You can convert them for roughly half that price: just the ignition, and this tiny mod:Attachment 2271022
Those three tiny 0,8 mm holes (drilled under an angle of appr 30~40 degrees) greatly improve the originally extremely poor fuel distribution.

Add the solenoid of a Stihl M-tronic chainsaw and some home made electronics to get the mixture exactly right, and it runs like this:

Appr 6K on a JustEngines woodie 20 x 10, more than enough to fly the 11 kilo Wulf.
A very tight baffle keeps temperature in check. It tends to run a bit hot at continuous WOT in the air, but no real issues. It needs to be flying though, on the ground cooling is insufficient. No big deal, there's no fun in continuous WOT on the ground anyway.

Engine has, break in time excluded, well over 15 hours on the model now (hour counter installed, not estimated), no signs of deterioration, wear, rust or dirt. Fuel is regular pump gas 10:1 with Castrol PowerRS 2stroke. Safe flying time appr 30 minutes on 16 oz of fuel. Earnback time of mod; between 25 and 35 runhours, depending on which glow fuel was used before.