retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Good suggestion. The only problem I see is that you may want your rivet/screw spacing at a scale dimension, as dictated by the scale of the aircraft.

Bob

dabrown

Thanks Bob and Hank,

I'll try the pin on a stick method with Elmers today. The drops will be going onto the pink tape which has one coat of dope on it and has been sanded. Hope it goes as easy as you make it look!

Now have everything covered Koverall applied with Stix-it, one coat non-taughtening Randolph butyrate dope, hair setting pinked tape, 2nd coat dope. Believe it's ready for color; fabric weave will still show. Won't be able to spray for a while until it warms up.

BTW, I was able to cover the top and sides with one piece of Koverall, except for the top front deck. I'll do that as a separate piece. We discussed this before as a way to avoid having to trim at the shallow angle between the top and sides. Koverall can shrink/stretch quite a bit but I wasn't able to take up all the excess at the front top.

Dave

Kinner

Here is a shot of a real Fleet with noted rib stiching which actually are screws but the spacing is good. Note that spacing doubles when applied withing the prop wash. Normal practice per Fed Regs.

On my 1/3 scaler, spacing was about 1/2 inch apart.

Under the wing walk antiskid, is a light corrigated metal sheet under the fabric. I also noted that the ailerons are stitched and ribs are not as plans.

Hope this helps. If you get good at rebuilding, I'll send you my Fleet.

Ray W.

skipb

My Feedback: (6)

Does anyone have a Concept Fleet construction manual they could copy for me? Let me know cost & postage.

Thanks,

Skipb

HOT COALS

   BOB, That was only a example. they do come at the right spacing. They come in a plastic roll. Also comes in crome plastic.  HANK  # 20

HOT COALS

I can make you a copy skipb. No chrg.  HANK #20   817-691- 4411 .

HOT COALS

    Dave, If your not going to paint soon. I would cover your parts with saran wrap,to keep the dust off.  I also do this to my planes if I am not going to fly them for a while.  Also will keep out the bees,hornets, wasps. which is a big problem for me here in TX . I had to  recover 2 of my fleet's .  HANK # 20.

Kinner

From Sam's Club or equiv, I bought a box of industrial garbage can liners in clear.  I wraped my 1/4 Cub wings, fuse and tail feathers after I framed it up.  20 years later and I uncovered it all last week after I lost my Fleet.

Absolutely no dust, bugs, roach droppings, etc.  Bags had that much dust on the outside and nothing got through.  I don't have mice so it never came to that.   Maybe the 20 gallon or larger bags would do you well.

Ray W.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

When you fly it, some of the dust comes off.

Bob

Kinner

Maybe that is all that holds it together.

Ray W.

dabrown

My problem has been mice. Hungry *******s with a balsa appetite. For stored airplanes, I put tape over any openings. They like to get inside and feast on your ribs, etc. Also had issues with wasps and cleaning mud nests out of wings.

dave

skipb

My Feedback: (6)

Hank-

Sent pm with instructions and above all else thank you.

Skipb

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I had three aditional flights today to get the trimming sorted out. At the end I was loading up the fuselage and I struck an overhead shelter upright with the elevator. [:@][:@]

I have to strip the covering, repair and paint the left elevator. Not at all something I wanted to do since I want to feel comfortable with the plane before our Giants event.


Bob

dgliderguy

Bob- This is so like me! More than half the damage my models incur happens before I even get them out on the runway.

Be sure to check your servo gears. That's one I've missed before.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks for the servo check reminder.

Bob

knucklebutt

Ive done that to my rudder a few times now: you think I would leard (errr Learn)



Denis

Kinner

The older I get, the narrower my vision becomes...it seems.   Not to mention, left is right and right is left.   Common cause for old guys to get dumb thumbs turning a short final with model Fleets.

alas

Ray W.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

One day with my first Fleet I made a sudden stop to avoid flattening a squirrel and my plane jumped chocks in my van and came rushing forward, tail first, into the back of my seat................rudder fix!

Bob

Kinner

I'm thinking that biplanes may not be for me.

I'm cramming my NE-2 together so as to bone up on flying skills I need from such a long layoff.   So, the 1/3rd scale will have better chances of surviving my stick work.

Ray W

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I finished the structural repair of my Fleet's elevator. Next is re-covering.

I added diagonal braces to reduce the tendency of the structure to warp. We'll see if it actually works.

Bob

dabrown

I went to Home Despot and found some aluminum duct material. It's a 4 inch duct, used for dryer vents, I think. $3.88 per sheet which I think is 12 in by 24 in. I bought 2.

The larger piece in the photos covering the cockpit I epoxied in place. The rear panel and the headrest are held in place with screws. Took me 5 tries to do the headrest. Next time I'll buy 4 sheets.

You can cut this stuff with scissors. I used two boards with the alum in between to bend the edges hard to see in the pics it was tricky.

Dave

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Nice work, Dave.

Bob

Mein Duff

Nice bends on that head rest Dave.... what thickness is that material...looks like about .5 mm

HOT COALS

  I am now working on a new fleet for a friend. Who bought a kit from me.  when I build the stab. inst. call for 4 pcs balsa . What I do I take 2 1/16 ply . Sandwich in between. the balsa. I found this limited the warpage.  In the fire wall sect. I use triangle aluminum 1/2 inch instead of the hard wood. With  1/2 by 3/8 wood srews taped in.  HANK #20

HOT COALS

  Good photos  Dave, I used the same stuff on my stinson sr 9. Which is still incontuction stage for the moment. I used 7mm which is very thin. . Which also can be used on leadining edgers .  Home depot sells rubber wasers, that I use for motor vibration.   HANK # 20.