Fleet Brotherhood
#676
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mooresville, IN
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Does anyone have any thoughts regarding the use of a B&B muffler on my Q-35? Any suggestions for a muffler to replace the "new" stock muffler on my "new" Q-35 that is going in my Concept Fleet ? I appreciate any advice or thoughts. New to quarter scale and gas engines.
Later,
Mike #31
Later,
Mike #31
#677

Mike,
Not sure if a B&B muffler is a "Bennet" muffler...Bennets are not really mufflers IMO....just sound modifiers...still loud and nasty.
Don't have much experience with gas 2 strokes but generally, the larger the muffler with a baffle in it, the quieter it will be from what I've seen.
Not sure if a B&B muffler is a "Bennet" muffler...Bennets are not really mufflers IMO....just sound modifiers...still loud and nasty.
Don't have much experience with gas 2 strokes but generally, the larger the muffler with a baffle in it, the quieter it will be from what I've seen.
#680
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Another Question - I am currently fitting the firewall to the fuselage frame. Do I need the exhaust tunnel if I am using a Bennet muffler on my Q-35? I have the rest of the formers made and ready to install along with the fuselage stringers. I need to get out to the hangar and measure the baggage compartment on my Model 2 Fleet. Most folks either forget the baggage compartment or don't know there was one behind the rear cockpit. Thanks in advance.
Mike #31
Mike #31
#682

Mike, The Bennet muffler has two pipes I'm pretty certain pointing up or down depending on how you mounted the engine.
So if the pipes are hanging clear of the cowl and venting the exhaust gas, I don't see the need for an "exhaust tunnel" unless you are routing the exhaust extension through the firewall and exiting somewhere behind that ?
An "enclosed tunnel" is not necessary in any case...just make sure you have 1/4 inch space around the muffler and whatever exhaust extension you might have for cooling....the larger the space the better.
So if the pipes are hanging clear of the cowl and venting the exhaust gas, I don't see the need for an "exhaust tunnel" unless you are routing the exhaust extension through the firewall and exiting somewhere behind that ?
An "enclosed tunnel" is not necessary in any case...just make sure you have 1/4 inch space around the muffler and whatever exhaust extension you might have for cooling....the larger the space the better.
#683

My Feedback: (35)

Hi Group,
I have started a build from as you expected a very old kit. I found this thread for anyone who might be starting their own build:
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php...comment-464550
Scott
I have started a build from as you expected a very old kit. I found this thread for anyone who might be starting their own build:
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php...comment-464550
Scott
#684

My Feedback: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: riverside,
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I would like to join the Group. I have the Fleet that Knucklebutt built in '04 and flew for years. It is an 84inch Fleet currently powered by a Quad 35. I have gone over the postings and still have questions to improve and update, what I will refer to as Knucklebutt. I put one flight on it last month, noted some things that still need to be addressed and started work on it again. My FlyBuddy gave me a NIB OS 5 banger (300) that we have decided to mount. I have a lot of questions about mounting the cowl and anything else that the experienced flyers can pass on. My motor-guy is going to go thru and start and tune the OS as it has been in the box since '89 and never run. It does not have a ring exhaust, just the stacks. I am about to order a McDaniels remote glow. Any other suggestions will be surely appreciated.
#685


Fiberglass Specialties might still stock a fiberglass cowl. I have one on each 1/4 and my 1/3 scale fleet. Some fitting would be in order but lot easier than carving.
Fiberglass Specialties Inc Catalog
Under cowls for kits looking at Concept
Good flying.
Ray W.
Fiberglass Specialties Inc Catalog
Under cowls for kits looking at Concept
Good flying.
Ray W.
Last edited by Kinner; 06-22-2018 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Added info
#687

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Yes, FiberglasSpecialties still has the cowl available. The current cowl fits so nice (wood) that I was wondering about using the rear half and adding the fiberglass front somehow. Is everyone using the radial making it a two piece unit? I still have to fill in an area where the lowest mounting bolt will go, as it was carved out for the Quad muffler.
#688




Most doable. I've attached a pix of a real Fleet cowl and shows the dome cutouts for cylinders and attached behind the cylinders. Hope this helps. Great idea, I wish I'd thought of it before I cut mine up.
Ray W.
Last edited by Kinner; 06-24-2018 at 11:02 AM. Reason: added photo
#689

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Well, I have the OS 5 banger mounted temporarily. I fabricated an aluminum plate to mount the OS to, then thru the stock firewall. Still have to do a little more work on the upper mounting bolts. Geez that thing is heavy. Does anyone know what the CG is supposed to be? Just want to get it ballpark right now. I have the FS cowl, the SonicTronics glow system and 5000 mha battery. The FS cowl is a little longer than the stock cowl, so I will use that. I will keep the stock wood carved cowl and the Q35 w/B&B muffler in a separate box, just in case.
#690

Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Potchefstroom, South Africaa
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Hi all
I am new to the forum but not to RC flying and building .... Potchefstroom - South Africa.
I obtained a old 1/4 scale Fleet kit here in South Africa that my son and myself want to build. We have an ASP 5 cylinder radial to fit ....
Unfortunately the landing gear wires is gone ! ... not a problem... will it be possible to post the length of the front and back wire from the fuselage to the inside of the wheel hub ?
We have worked through the instructions and checked all the parts, so we are ready to go ....
This thread has given us a lot of ideas ito changes that we will apply as we build.
thanks Chris
I am new to the forum but not to RC flying and building .... Potchefstroom - South Africa.
I obtained a old 1/4 scale Fleet kit here in South Africa that my son and myself want to build. We have an ASP 5 cylinder radial to fit ....
Unfortunately the landing gear wires is gone ! ... not a problem... will it be possible to post the length of the front and back wire from the fuselage to the inside of the wheel hub ?
We have worked through the instructions and checked all the parts, so we are ready to go ....
This thread has given us a lot of ideas ito changes that we will apply as we build.
thanks Chris
Last edited by Chrisvn; 08-23-2018 at 05:09 AM.
#691






I will offer my LG wire build up from a repair/replace the main gear assembly from a crash. 3/16 Piano wire steel with soldered wire wrapping is the norm. I brazed mine and is just as strong. I've some pix. The gear consist of 4 pieces. Main strut that has the axle, a drag strut that holds fast the angled main strut. On the front main strut are two smaller units that offer control of spreading while the craft is landing or taxi.
Soldering with wire wrap can eliminate the need to retemper .
After fuselage construction, I took dimensions from the hard wood gear bearers and created a jig so as the duplicate the attachment points for a sure fitting landing gear. Same procedure I used when I built my 3rd scale Fleet.
I hope this helps.
Ray W.
Last edited by Kinner; 08-23-2018 at 06:51 AM.
#692


Added: the large fuse cutout aft of the gear attach point is my modification to a one piece lower wing and will not reflect the plans you have.
Additionally, each wing rib is in 3 pieces and can get miss aligned as happened to me with a case of late night blurry eyes. I'd suggest making a one piece rib collection. My 3rd scale Fleet has the same technique on the built up spares but I had one piece ribs cut by a kit cutter. Saved a lot of time and vocabulary.
Ray W.
Additionally, each wing rib is in 3 pieces and can get miss aligned as happened to me with a case of late night blurry eyes. I'd suggest making a one piece rib collection. My 3rd scale Fleet has the same technique on the built up spares but I had one piece ribs cut by a kit cutter. Saved a lot of time and vocabulary.
Ray W.
#696

Join Date: Aug 2018
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Added: the large fuse cutout aft of the gear attach point is my modification to a one piece lower wing and will not reflect the plans you have.
Additionally, each wing rib is in 3 pieces and can get miss aligned as happened to me with a case of late night blurry eyes. I'd suggest making a one piece rib collection. My 3rd scale Fleet has the same technique on the built up spares but I had one piece ribs cut by a kit cutter. Saved a lot of time and vocabulary.
Ray W.
Additionally, each wing rib is in 3 pieces and can get miss aligned as happened to me with a case of late night blurry eyes. I'd suggest making a one piece rib collection. My 3rd scale Fleet has the same technique on the built up spares but I had one piece ribs cut by a kit cutter. Saved a lot of time and vocabulary.
Ray W.
Can you post a pic of the mid section of the wing and the cutout on the fuse from below the fuse ? .... did you discuss it in another thread on RCU ?
Chris
#697


Elmshoot. Yes , Enya 2.40 twin. Each cylinder has it's own carb. POWERHOUSE. I ran it with a 20-8 or maybe 20-6 and it towed a long banner with ease. Trigger off the banner and it shot ahead noticeably. I had it overhauled by a fella up North and have yet to get any serious runs. My figuring is I put a new tank with too small a pickup tube thus it starves when 2/3 to open throttle. I've had other fellas tell me they ran each carb/cyl from different tanks. Logical but complications with installing them.
Engine has no choke so starting largely done with electric starter. Before the crash, I had a remote battery plug that worked just fine. After rebuild , I got fancy and put on an onboard glow switched thru the gear retract.
I flew this beauty for near 15 years with the VT 240 and once I learned the engine set up, It seldom let me down. Even with one cylinder out, a return to base can be accomplished.
Engine has no choke so starting largely done with electric starter. Before the crash, I had a remote battery plug that worked just fine. After rebuild , I got fancy and put on an onboard glow switched thru the gear retract.
I flew this beauty for near 15 years with the VT 240 and once I learned the engine set up, It seldom let me down. Even with one cylinder out, a return to base can be accomplished.
#698


Chris
Hope these help. I kept the wing spar blades and incorperated them in the new center section. Thus, if it crashes again, the weak link fracture point is those blades. I never liked those but they save the wing sections from piles of damage. Inside the center wing box is a servo to jettison the banner when towed.





Hope these help. I kept the wing spar blades and incorperated them in the new center section. Thus, if it crashes again, the weak link fracture point is those blades. I never liked those but they save the wing sections from piles of damage. Inside the center wing box is a servo to jettison the banner when towed.






#700


More..





I forgot to include that the bottom wing is held to the fuse with nylon wing attach bolts. Dowls lock the forward part, top locators prevent wing shift and adds to the alignment.





I forgot to include that the bottom wing is held to the fuse with nylon wing attach bolts. Dowls lock the forward part, top locators prevent wing shift and adds to the alignment.