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Bonner Smog Hog - 60 years later

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Bonner Smog Hog - 60 years later

Old 06-24-2016, 07:48 PM
  #101  
otrcman
 
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HighPlains,

You mentioned that you are using "model cement or carpenter's wood glue". Just to be sure, are you familiar with double gluing ? I only ask because it took me 'way too long to find out what the term actually meant and what the benefits are.

Many of the old construction articles reminded the builder to "double glue all joints". I had the impression that the term meant that I should go over all the finished joints with an extra coating of glue. But I won't tell you how old I was before actually finding out the the term meant to coat each of the mating surfaces of a joint, let them dry for a few minutes, and then apply a second coating of glue before bring the parts together. Surprise! It made the joints far stronger.

Dick
Old 06-24-2016, 09:09 PM
  #102  
HighPlains
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I had forgot the term, but it was ingrained into me over 50 years ago by my dad. I always rubbed the first coat on with my fingertip. When it was dry enough to peel off, the the second wet coat goes on to join. I've always enjoyed the process. I recently introduced this to a nearly 5 year old great nephew as we are building a Flite Streak Trainer for him to fly. He is looking forward to painting it, and making the engine run.
Old 06-25-2016, 07:54 AM
  #103  
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What model cement are you using? My last tube of Ambroid dried up many years ago.
Old 06-25-2016, 07:06 PM
  #104  
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You can still buy Ambroid if you look hard enough, but it seems to be available only in the small tubes. And the price seems to be about the same even though you are only getting about half the glue in the small tubes.

I've been ordering Sigment straight from Sig. It's OK, but somehow I still like the Ambroid because it's a thinner viscosity.

Lou Proctor aways recommended Duco Cement. He was a master craftsman and told me once that Duco was the strongest of all the cements. It smells funny to me, but seems to work about the same as Ambroid. Duco also comes in smaller tubes, and is pretty expensive if you buy it at the local hardware store.

I visited the Proctor Enterprises business in Sandy, Oregon just last week. They still sell Duco, and the price struck me as much cheaper than at my local Ace Hardware. I think the price at Proctor was about $2.50 per tube.

Dick
Old 06-25-2016, 07:11 PM
  #105  
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I've been using Sig-ment, it kind of reminds me of Tester's that I used as a kid. But I wish that Ambroids was available again, along with HobbyPoxy2. Whenever I joint sheets of balsa for skinning foam wings, I always use model cement because it sands better than anything else. This was especially important when glassing and painting wings.
Old 07-24-2016, 03:21 AM
  #106  
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Any new progress?
Old 07-24-2016, 11:26 PM
  #107  
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Hi Paul, I must apologize for the delay. Most of the last month was tied up with wheat harvest here on the plains, and that makes for very long days. I've since started framing up the horizontal stabilizer and will post a few photos soon.
Old 07-25-2016, 12:30 PM
  #108  
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Glad to hear you're back on it. I know how things can get in the way, I've spent the last month framing a horizontal stab for a deBolt Pursuit.
I'll have that finished soon so I can go back to lurking.

Paul
Old 07-25-2016, 02:36 PM
  #109  
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I'd like to see the Pursuit. I have a kit for it in the basement, I believe that it is the kit version of a refined Crusader that was presented in a magazine article around 1958-9.
Old 07-25-2016, 05:23 PM
  #110  
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I hope your kit is better than mine. I thought Berkeley kits were the worst, not anymore.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2683330
I have the stab finished, might post pictures tomorrow.

Paul
Old 07-26-2016, 03:56 PM
  #111  
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I have a Berkeley Super Buccaneer that is approaching 70 years since it was built. It was setup for an ignition engine and rudder control in the late '40's. Some of the internal structure's balsa was very crudely cut, and quite often never sanded. Those kits must have been a nightmare.
Old 07-26-2016, 04:49 PM
  #112  
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My Pursuit is 66 years old, and the quality shows it. I'm doing some mods just to make it flyable.
Closer to your plane. the control horns were aluminum with wire pushrods. Reeds love that kind of noise.
Old 02-18-2017, 05:25 PM
  #113  
HighPlains
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Well, I took some time away from this project to work on other stuff. Too many distractions, too little time management.

Anyway, here is the horizontal stabilizer outer framework built from 3/8" balsa and tips from 3/8" sheet. The next shot is with a 3/8" doubler with the 3/8" x 3/32" diagonal "ribs", though at this point they are flat sticks. The stab now has a modest amount of torsional rigidity.

The next step is to add the 3/16" x 3/8" spars and add glue more 3/32" balsa 3/16" wide on top of the diagonals below the spars. Easy, but time consuming with all the little parts. I'm making the spars now, just hope it doesn't take 8 months......
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:29 PM
  #114  
HighPlains
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I have added the top spar and 3/32 x 3/16 fillers on the horizontal stabilizer. Problem is my iPad died, so I am posting from my iPhone. What I have figured out is that the stab has 109 pieces of balsa in it. It may explain why the Taurus is the last design I know of to use this method of construction.
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Old 03-11-2017, 01:14 PM
  #115  
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Actually, Matts' ''Superstars'' use the same construction, similar stuff seen on lots of kit models well in to the 80's...not many better ways to make a light, stiff sructure...
Evan.
Old 03-11-2017, 07:02 PM
  #116  
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109 pieces in the horizontal stab ? Mr. Bonner wasn't just building model airplanes; he was building character !

Dick

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