Sterling F-51 kit
10-15-2004, 04:10 AM
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Sterling F-51 kit
I have a Sterling F-51 Mustang kit #FS10. The kit just needs plans and instructions to be complete. Any ideas for this problem?
10-18-2004, 04:53 AM
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RE: Sterling F-51 kit
Hi John,
Thank you for writing me. Yes, I am interested and will send you a check for the plans and other information you can supply me.
Sincerely, Mark
Thank you for writing me. Yes, I am interested and will send you a check for the plans and other information you can supply me.
Sincerely, Mark
10-19-2004, 02:46 AM
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RE: Sterling F-51 kit
John - I pulled out piece by piece everything in the Sterling F-51 kit. Things I'm not seeing are thick fuselage sides, leading and trailing edge strips, long main spars, small spars, wing ribs, fin, and gear blocks. I'm not sure of all of the things that are missing with out viewing plans, so I now realize that half the kit is not there. The full box was deceiving. If the wing ribs are not individually patterned on plans, I will not be able to make them. I first thought the the ribs did not come printed on balsa because of so much plain sheeting in the kit. My dad told me today that even the old kits were printed. Any thoughts on this probem? Does the plans show enough info to build this?
Mark
Mark
10-19-2004, 06:34 AM
#5
RE: Sterling F-51 kit
FYI when building a Sterling F-51 (and any other Sterling kit as well):
Hog out as much excess wood as possible and don't be afraid to replace it with lighter density wood. I have one I restored where the wing ribs are probably 12# to 15# density and hard as a rock so you will need to cut lightening holes in the ribs. Add vertical grain 1/16" - 3/32" light grain balsa webs at the wing trailing edge, (it is very easy to twist and can certainly use the stiffening. Forget about all the hatches on the fuselage. They were originally designed to get access to the reed radio shown on the plans. Instead, you can install the radio in the normal manner by deleting the sheeting at the underside of the fuselage/wing joint area. The same goes for the removeable tail, permanently fix it in place. Covering should be as light as possible whether it is your favorite iron on or silk and dope. The plans do not show any patterns so you should at least trace the existing parts.
The one I restored is original from the kit with all the removeable parts. I have a Kraft radio ready to go in it and a Veco .45 for power but I'm seriously considering replacing it with a ST .56. Maybe it will fly, maybe it will become a wind vane. On the positive side, it is an easy to build airplane and will be a good flyer if you pay attention to weight. If you can get it somewhere 6# to 8#, you did good. The plans show a K&B .45 (that's all they had then) but it is much better with something like a .56 to a .60 up front. Do not delete the flaps, a brick has a better glide ratio than this pig. [sm=rolleyes.gif] They do fly well but you MUST keep the speed up on landing approach. It WILL snap and spin when you don't expect it, just like the real thing. Have fun and post some pictures.
Hog out as much excess wood as possible and don't be afraid to replace it with lighter density wood. I have one I restored where the wing ribs are probably 12# to 15# density and hard as a rock so you will need to cut lightening holes in the ribs. Add vertical grain 1/16" - 3/32" light grain balsa webs at the wing trailing edge, (it is very easy to twist and can certainly use the stiffening. Forget about all the hatches on the fuselage. They were originally designed to get access to the reed radio shown on the plans. Instead, you can install the radio in the normal manner by deleting the sheeting at the underside of the fuselage/wing joint area. The same goes for the removeable tail, permanently fix it in place. Covering should be as light as possible whether it is your favorite iron on or silk and dope. The plans do not show any patterns so you should at least trace the existing parts.
The one I restored is original from the kit with all the removeable parts. I have a Kraft radio ready to go in it and a Veco .45 for power but I'm seriously considering replacing it with a ST .56. Maybe it will fly, maybe it will become a wind vane. On the positive side, it is an easy to build airplane and will be a good flyer if you pay attention to weight. If you can get it somewhere 6# to 8#, you did good. The plans show a K&B .45 (that's all they had then) but it is much better with something like a .56 to a .60 up front. Do not delete the flaps, a brick has a better glide ratio than this pig. [sm=rolleyes.gif] They do fly well but you MUST keep the speed up on landing approach. It WILL snap and spin when you don't expect it, just like the real thing. Have fun and post some pictures.
10-20-2004, 03:38 AM
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RE: Sterling F-51 kit
Mike - I am grateful for your knowledge and answers.
I should have dug thought the kit alot more before purchasing it from a widow.
There are many bulkheads printed and cut out in the kit, but no existing wing ribs
to trace. I may be shot down before I've started anything this time.
Any thoughts?
Mark
I should have dug thought the kit alot more before purchasing it from a widow.
There are many bulkheads printed and cut out in the kit, but no existing wing ribs
to trace. I may be shot down before I've started anything this time.
Any thoughts?
Mark
10-20-2004, 09:45 AM
#7
RE: Sterling F-51 kit
Mark,
The wing is a thick symmetrical airfoil that can be duplicated by a number of the wing lofting programs available. Falling short of that, maybe someone who has a kit can trace the parts for you. Aside from the double tapered leading and trailing edges, the airfoil thickness tapers on the top and bottom sides. Also. there is no twist in the wing that can be seen. Maybe a couple degrees of wash out at the tips would help with stalling tendencies. An easier way is to set the ailerons slightly up where they act as wash out at low to medium airspeeds. With high speed flight, they would more or less streamline. Be careful that the flaps are equal in throw as one set lower or higher than the other can induce a roll when you don't want it to! [X(]
As designed and built, the Mustang is eligible for VR/CS events. For better scale appearance, the nose could be lengthened maybe
1 1/2" to 2" and could be made to look like the F-51H variant. As far as plans available, a guy on our favorite auction site has the plans as originally published in American Modeler. Look for "Skystone". He's a good guy.
The wing is a thick symmetrical airfoil that can be duplicated by a number of the wing lofting programs available. Falling short of that, maybe someone who has a kit can trace the parts for you. Aside from the double tapered leading and trailing edges, the airfoil thickness tapers on the top and bottom sides. Also. there is no twist in the wing that can be seen. Maybe a couple degrees of wash out at the tips would help with stalling tendencies. An easier way is to set the ailerons slightly up where they act as wash out at low to medium airspeeds. With high speed flight, they would more or less streamline. Be careful that the flaps are equal in throw as one set lower or higher than the other can induce a roll when you don't want it to! [X(]
As designed and built, the Mustang is eligible for VR/CS events. For better scale appearance, the nose could be lengthened maybe
1 1/2" to 2" and could be made to look like the F-51H variant. As far as plans available, a guy on our favorite auction site has the plans as originally published in American Modeler. Look for "Skystone". He's a good guy.
