Frank Schwartz

My Feedback: (1)

. Some years ago at the Toledo Show before it moved to the
present location, there was a fellow who showed in the flea market who
sold kits and built up Power Panels. I think the name was Northeast
Engineering. I bought one of the kits and built it and used it for
years and years. One of the best power panels I have ever had... Then
the unit went dead...bad meter...I wrote to the man and the mail came
back. Does anyone know this fellow or how to reach him...or does
anyone have one of those panels I can obtain either as a replacement
or as a source of replacement parts??
Thanks
Frank Schwartz...79 years young and still actively building and flying
for 70 years...why quit now?

jlingrel

Bravo for you. I am 60, been flying all sorts of things for 50 years and will not quit until the undertaker takes the transmitter from my cold fingers. As for the power panel, not familiar with it. Do you still have the instructions? I will be back in the states in Aug, and would be willing to look at it for you if you like. You can email me at [email protected].

John Lingrel

RCPAUL

My Feedback: (1)

Frank - first, I remember you from the early days and am glad your still perking along.

do you mean power panel or glow plug driver? I have one of the Northeast glow drivers - and it still works.

Paul

Frank Schwartz

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I guess you could say it is a power panel that has the glow driver in it. Best glo driver I have ever had.... I did not know that he also made a glow driver separately from the power panel. Maybe someone will come up with a power panel that has the meter on it and I can "refurbish" mine.

scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

what are the spec on the meter,you may find a suitable replacement for it without looking for another panel.i still use my ancient d.a.e panel at least 30 years old.

Frank Schwartz

My Feedback: (1)

Gee...I don't know what the actual meter specs are as it is burned out...no way to check it..I will dig it out and have a look...if I can find anything I will post again here....

jlingrel

Frank, when you remove the meter, look either on the face of it or on the back. It should have a number like 30uA (micro amps) or some other such number, this is the current it takes to drive the meter to full scale deflection. It should not be to hard to find another one that is similar. You will also find a resistor in parallel with the meter (current shunt). Make sure this resistor is in good shape. If these resistors burn out, it will take out the meter in a heart beat and the full current for the glo plug will go thru the meter. These typically are a very low resistance value, a resistance lower than the resistance of the meter.

John