Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
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Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
I bought a brand new Thermal Hopper Tank Assembly still in the box and noticed it had been dropped and caused a ding in the reed basket ring. Well it turns out it was more than a ding cause when I took it apart, it cracked and broke right at that spot without any pressure. Does anyone have a spare they could sell?
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RE: Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
Hi jetpack,
In my Cox 1/2A parts box I probably should have a used one for you ..... and BTW, I have not forgotten about the Stanzel Mono-Line units, it's just that I got busy on another project once you said 'no big hurry'. Can you be a bit more descriptive on the Space Bug / Thermal Hopper part that you seek ..... as stated I do understand it to be the round '90 degree lipped' aluminum 'reed housing' cage that holds the reed assembly in place?
Later, Donald Garry
In my Cox 1/2A parts box I probably should have a used one for you ..... and BTW, I have not forgotten about the Stanzel Mono-Line units, it's just that I got busy on another project once you said 'no big hurry'. Can you be a bit more descriptive on the Space Bug / Thermal Hopper part that you seek ..... as stated I do understand it to be the round '90 degree lipped' aluminum 'reed housing' cage that holds the reed assembly in place?
Later, Donald Garry
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RE: Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
Yes thats the ring I'm talking about. Mine has one dimple in the side of it to align the two reeds and also provide friction to hold the ring when its popped on. It looks to be a stamped and formed piece, rather than turned from stock. I took it apart to polish the reeds and tank, and when I got to cleaning the ring is when I noticed the ding in it from concrete. I left it alone and just tried to reuse it, and when I pressed it on it popped with just the slightest pressure. It sits more like a C clip now, and the crankcase clearences keeps it in place, but I wouldn't trust to run it that way. It sure would be nice to have one that wasn't broke, due to the way the rest of the motor turned out after hand working each part for a nice display piece thats headed into the Skyray example.
Still no hurry on the control unit as I still have to copy the kit parts on the Skyray, and there's a ton of them! Berkeley wasn't shy on making punches with this one.
Still no hurry on the control unit as I still have to copy the kit parts on the Skyray, and there's a ton of them! Berkeley wasn't shy on making punches with this one.
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RE: Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
I am sure I have the part you need, give me a day or two to dig it up. Meanwhile, how about posting your procedure(s) for doing the fantastic shine job on the early Cox cast aluminum parts? Thanks!
Donald Garry
Donald Garry
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RE: Thermal Hopper Reed Cage Ring
Hi Don,
Thanks for your replies!
I started out cleaning motors as a teen, primarily to keep my control line Cox engines running.
I just start out with hobby files and remove the parting line humps, then switch to moldmakers polishing stones (sticks of abrasive) down through the grades, then wet/dry fine sanding, then just a good rub of metal polish cream and then finally a good bath in Hoppe's No. 9 to float off any abrasives.
The only trick to it that others might not find right away is the Bear polishing stones, but those are carried by MSC or other large tool supply catalog in any grit from 180 to 400 i think. The sizes are square, round and flat....all about 6" long and 1/8 to 1/4 cross sections. The ends can be shaped by emery cloth or a grinder to get the right point going before you start rubbing. Primarily used in plastic injection moldmaking in finishing cavities. To brighten any corners that you cannot reach to polish, there's a sink cleaner called "Barkeeper's Friend" that works great on aluminum. Don't use Comet, you won't be happy because it spots aluminum dark if not rinsed properly. Just use an old toothbrush and water to make a paste and scrub away.
To clean the reeds I used an old racing trick. Just use a piece of bonded copy paper, and smear a fine polishing cream on it to make a nice smooth, dry patch of it, then just use your finger and rub the reed around on it using pressure in different spots as you go. DON'T HOOK IT or you'll hate me for the idea. Once it's creased, its shot, so go easy and light and get the technique going. It takes a bit of fingerprint with it, but as we used to say as kids, "don't worry its just skin."
Thanks for your replies!
I started out cleaning motors as a teen, primarily to keep my control line Cox engines running.
I just start out with hobby files and remove the parting line humps, then switch to moldmakers polishing stones (sticks of abrasive) down through the grades, then wet/dry fine sanding, then just a good rub of metal polish cream and then finally a good bath in Hoppe's No. 9 to float off any abrasives.
The only trick to it that others might not find right away is the Bear polishing stones, but those are carried by MSC or other large tool supply catalog in any grit from 180 to 400 i think. The sizes are square, round and flat....all about 6" long and 1/8 to 1/4 cross sections. The ends can be shaped by emery cloth or a grinder to get the right point going before you start rubbing. Primarily used in plastic injection moldmaking in finishing cavities. To brighten any corners that you cannot reach to polish, there's a sink cleaner called "Barkeeper's Friend" that works great on aluminum. Don't use Comet, you won't be happy because it spots aluminum dark if not rinsed properly. Just use an old toothbrush and water to make a paste and scrub away.
To clean the reeds I used an old racing trick. Just use a piece of bonded copy paper, and smear a fine polishing cream on it to make a nice smooth, dry patch of it, then just use your finger and rub the reed around on it using pressure in different spots as you go. DON'T HOOK IT or you'll hate me for the idea. Once it's creased, its shot, so go easy and light and get the technique going. It takes a bit of fingerprint with it, but as we used to say as kids, "don't worry its just skin."