BingoFlyer

This is my first post in a long time and am looking for information from Taurus builders.

I have been building from plans for many years and have just recently started redrawing the Top Flite Taurus plans to use more up to date methods and easier constrution, I buit and flew the Taurus in the '60s with reed equipment and just like this plane.

I'm wondering if any of you have experimented with a solid LE spar rather than the wrapped spar that Ed used in the '60s? I have tried, on the drawing board, several different types but nothing has looked like I would want to build.

Any input would be appreciated.

Hueydriver

Try Jeff Petroski at Home and Hobby Solutions (.http://www.homeandhobbysolutions.com...%20Details.htm)...he has kitted Ed's Taurus again using more modern building techniques. I have a few of his kits, including the Taurus/Primus and they use a solid LE. The aircraft flies better than I remembered it as the loading is a lot less. It is truly an outstanding aircraft.

Kirk

BingoFlyer

Thanks for the input Kirt;

I'm retired and have much more time than money and having built exclusivley form plans for the last 20 years know that I can save at least 50% by doing my own cutting. I am aware of Jeff's service but would rather do it without going to a kit cutter.

pimmnz

I have built a couple of Taurus from the Top Flite plan and have found that so long as you choose the wood a bit carefully the old wrapped L/e is lighter, stronger and quicker than carving wood. More accurate too. So long as you jig the wing straight before you glue it is also stable enough to use film coverings. `If it ain't broke...'
Evan, WB #12.

BingoFlyer

In my mind I know what you are saying is true and I have all the ribs cut (with the building tabs). I hated wrapping the LE in the '60s and can not imagine I will like it anymore now. I'm not too concerned about the weight as I have remove quite abit in the Fus.

Both of the fields I fly from have a nasty weed, that grows much faster than the grass, that I'm sure would cut into the soft balsa LE wrap, I may just place an carbon arrow under the wrap for protection the added weight would only be a couple hundrad grains.

pimmnz

True, I have been flying mine for eight years now, all off farmers fields, and the only ding I have was when I flew through a glider towline. (monofilament) I did double up the thickness at the wing root so that the bands don't bruise the wood too much. It is remarkably strong. Mind you, you should have seen the yaw when the line tightened up! It is still flying with the mark there just to remind me.
Evan, WB #12.

mred33

Bingoflyer;
You could always use a peice of square balsa on the leading edge slightly larger then the rib so that the balsa can butt up against it, round it over on the front and sand it down to match the sheeting and you have a nice strong leading edge without much weight gain and very strong. I use this quite a bit on plans I draw and build and it is easy, fast and strong. Holds up longer then the wraped leading edge and is easier to make. Maybe this will help. By the way, the leading dege is not put on square, but diamond, with the point of the square going into the wing and forward, up and down. Sort of square turned up on point. Did I make any sence, or did I confuse the issue. Anyway, I love this wing building method and change most of my kits to it if they use a square leading edge on the square instead of the diamond.
Mr Ed

BingoFlyer

Mred;

I have thought about that, it's the same method used on the "Bingo" but wasn't sure that I wanted to because of the 19% airfoil makes the angle quit steep and would have to use 1/2" square.

Thank you for your input, this is the best solution so far but as I said above I may just use the wrapped LE and reinforce it with a carbon fiber arrow shaft. I did this on an electric I built and it was very strong and light.

Jim Thomerson

Are we discussing a molded leading edge? I have made one and found it very easy to do; light and strong (added webs in the back to make it a D-tube.) I'm going to make another one first chance I get. However, last couple of airplanes have called for a square leading edge set on edge. [8D]

Hans Dahl Christensen

Hello Bingo Flyer.

Being a retired person myself i know about such problems.

I - of course - have also had a TAUTRUS -- and am buildning a new one from the old kit-plan.

The leading edge could rather easily be copied if you make some strips from 1/8 inch balsa - fairly soft and " build up " the up leading edga as we did with fuselages in the old days. Use a sandable glue.

And then why 1/8 inch balsa instead of 3/32 which is mentioned on the drawing ? You simply has to sand this leading edge ! and that requires a bit of wood.

This method is really not very difficult ! and sheets of balsa are not all that expensive.

Good luck and kind regards,

hld - OY-901

aerowoof

I have been looking at that same plan and have decided to use the molded le.I am going to cut a mold from foam for the inside radius from root to tip then after soaking the balsa in water and ammonia I will wrap it around the mold andwrap with masking tape every few inches i plan on using the female mold as a clamp when I glue the l e in place on the ribs should make for a uniform radius on both panels

BingoFlyer

Thanks, that is about the same method I was going to use and because of the weeds at our field I will reinforce the edge with a carbon arrow shaft. The weight gain will only be a few hundred gains and I'm sure I can save more than that on the Fuse.

DHG

My Feedback: (7)

Aerowoof,

Why take the trouble to make a mold when you can get close enough using a broomstick? The main thing is to set a curve in the balsa so it doesn't fight you when you pin it to the front of the ribs. Also, I've found that brushing water (or hot water, or water with ammonia) on only one side of the balsa will give it a good start toward bending in the direction that you want.

If you are going to make a mold, though, it's smart to use the female part as a clamp. Good thinking.

BingoFlyer,

The CF shaft sounds great. Another possibility might be to pre-bend about a 1-inch-wide strip of 1/64" ply (see above) and laminate it to the backside of the balsa plank, right down the centerline. You could even assemble it using a foam mold/press similar to what Aerowoof describes, lined with wax paper, using epoxy as the adhesive. This would give you a very strong preformed LE that would fit perfectly on the front of the ribs.

Just my .02 ... well, actually .04.

Duane Gall
RCPRO