Old engine refurbing
#1
Thread Starter
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Old engine refurbing
I'm not sure this is the right forum for this. If not, please redirect this.
I am putting together a collection of old racing engines that I have pylon raced over four decades. Most are in excellent internal condition but I am concerned about their external appearance. I'm curious how to bring the cases back to their original appearance. Is there a metal treatment or something that can be used for this. I am aware of the different casting methods, the different alloys and some of the external finishing that was originally used. But my attempts at refurbing just don't produce the results I am looking for.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
I am putting together a collection of old racing engines that I have pylon raced over four decades. Most are in excellent internal condition but I am concerned about their external appearance. I'm curious how to bring the cases back to their original appearance. Is there a metal treatment or something that can be used for this. I am aware of the different casting methods, the different alloys and some of the external finishing that was originally used. But my attempts at refurbing just don't produce the results I am looking for.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
#2
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RE: Old engine refurbing
Roger,
For the last several years Walt Craig has advertised in SAM Speaks, the Vintage FreeFlight magazine.
His shop is called "Engine Restoration Services".
The add copy mentions removal of plier marks, surface scratches, painting, cleaning, replacing/sourcing missing or worn parts.
Walt Craig
717-229-2840
3664 Smoketown Rd.
Glenville, PA 17329
[email protected]
http://www.antiquemodeler.org/ Is the site for the SAM organization...Society of Antique Modelers. The archives should show an old issue with the add page, although that may only be accessible by a subscribing SAM member.
There is a Yahoo SAM site...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SAMTal...guid=101166036
You can post there to check this out...someone will know him. These guys are pretty much dedicated, straight arrow modelers.
Hope this helps.
Pete
For the last several years Walt Craig has advertised in SAM Speaks, the Vintage FreeFlight magazine.
His shop is called "Engine Restoration Services".
The add copy mentions removal of plier marks, surface scratches, painting, cleaning, replacing/sourcing missing or worn parts.
Walt Craig
717-229-2840
3664 Smoketown Rd.
Glenville, PA 17329
[email protected]
http://www.antiquemodeler.org/ Is the site for the SAM organization...Society of Antique Modelers. The archives should show an old issue with the add page, although that may only be accessible by a subscribing SAM member.
There is a Yahoo SAM site...http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SAMTal...guid=101166036
You can post there to check this out...someone will know him. These guys are pretty much dedicated, straight arrow modelers.
Hope this helps.
Pete
#3
RE: Old engine refurbing
You might also try the K&B engine factory site: http://www.modelengine.org/forum/
This is link to forums. There are specialty engine forums. Jim
This is link to forums. There are specialty engine forums. Jim
#4
RE: Old engine refurbing
You can clean the metal, some guys use the specialty engine cleaning solutions, others use a crock pot and dishwashing soap, but nothing will restore the surface finish if it is badly oxidized. Alot of alloys have a slight rainbow look to them when they are new, this cannot be restored. With McCulloch Kart engines, we bead blast them, then tumble them in media. This makes them really clean, but you can tell the differance from a pristine engine block. I have used walnut shells to blast/clean, but this leaves a sligh brownish stain that requires alot of scrubbing to remove, and again, it is not the same finish as what it was new. I have a tumbler for cleaning rifle shells, and it does a fair job , but beware that the media gets jammed in the fins, nooks and crannies and can be a real pain to get it out of there.
#5
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (19)
RE: Old engine refurbing
Thanks everyone for your responses! I'm fortunate to have some very good engines to work with and maybe now I can get the cases back close to their original appearances. Machined parts are easy to deal with but those castings have so many different kinds of surfaces. Early K&B cases come around OK with just some tumbling .... others not so good. Maybe some of the suggestions and sites will help. Thanks again
#6
My Feedback: (20)
RE: Old engine refurbing
ORIGINAL: Truckracer
I'm not sure this is the right forum for this. If not, please redirect this.
I am putting together a collection of old racing engines that I have pylon raced over four decades. Most are in excellent internal condition but I am concerned about their external appearance. I'm curious how to bring the cases back to their original appearance. Is there a metal treatment or something that can be used for this. I am aware of the different casting methods, the different alloys and some of the external finishing that was originally used. But my attempts at refurbing just don't produce the results I am looking for.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
I'm not sure this is the right forum for this. If not, please redirect this.
I am putting together a collection of old racing engines that I have pylon raced over four decades. Most are in excellent internal condition but I am concerned about their external appearance. I'm curious how to bring the cases back to their original appearance. Is there a metal treatment or something that can be used for this. I am aware of the different casting methods, the different alloys and some of the external finishing that was originally used. But my attempts at refurbing just don't produce the results I am looking for.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
I've got one of these and it works real well for model engines. I only use very fine glass beads and obviously you need to disassemble your engines prior to blasting. With you being a pylon racer that shouldn't be a problem. I also use the dish washer to clean the parts after bead blasting. You have to make sure that you mask or clean the parts afterwards. It the only way that I have found to get an even finish and remove stains.