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Bridi RCM Trainer

Old 03-13-2011, 06:49 PM
  #76  
swimmer316
 
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Default RE: Bridi RCM Trainer

I have a question about control linkages to the rudder and elevator. What are the pros/cons to using Sullivan Gold N Rod's red/yellow? Should I use conventional dowel rod linkage? Because I'm using the port side servo for nose gear/rudder control the wood dowels would have to cross in the fuselage. I've already connected a gold n rod to the nose gear which works very good. The other issue that makes me lean toward the gold n rod is the angle the linkage will have to exit the top of the fuselage to operate the rudder. Support for the outer sheath will be no problem close to the servos but there will be support issues where the rods exit the fuselage. I received my Trainer pre-built from my father-in-law and he made no provisions for securing control rods in the aft end of fuselage.

swimmer
Old 03-13-2011, 07:47 PM
  #77  
PeterC
 
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Default RE: Bridi RCM Trainer

I've been following this thread for a while. The RCM trainer is one of my old favorites and it's always nice to visit old friends.
Regarding the use of Golden rods I find that they work very well but BOTH ends of the outer sheath MUST be well supported. Also be sure that where the rod exits the outer sheath that you use the steel threaded rods from there to the servos and the control horn(s).
I don't see why you can't use the hole where the original pushrods exited the fuselage and bond them there. The best glue I have found for gluing the outer sheaths is Automotive Goop. I also find it best to have a few inches of rod between the exit and the control horn. It allows the rod to work back and forth and prevent binding.
If you can't secure both ends of the outer rod then you should use solid pushrods.
Peter
Old 03-14-2011, 12:42 PM
  #78  
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Default RE: Bridi RCM Trainer

Looking through additional items that came with my RCM Trainer I discovered a package of Dubro NY-Steel Kwik Rods eliminating the need for the gold n rods. These will be used for the rudder/elevator control linkages. That is a real plus having the rudder linkage pre-bent as it has to exit the top of the fuselage then snakes around to connect to the control horn. I'm sure my father-in-law bent the rod and he did a great job. I cut a short slit in the top of the fuselage close to the rudder so the rod can exit then enough slot to move freely. The elevator rod is a no brainer as it is a straight shot and will exit the aft end of the fuselage just under the horizontal stabilizer and direct connect to the elevator control horn.

swimmer
Old 01-15-2016, 02:08 PM
  #79  
mithrandir
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Originally Posted by RFJ
For comparison. This is the RCM X-pert. Published May 1969. Had one powered by Webra 40. Great little model.

Ray
Old thread I know!!

My Father designed this plane.... it was a real sweetie... the airfoil was extremely tolerant of abuse!!

This was the original... when we lived in Memphis Tenn.....

I have over the years seen several planes that were essentially copies....

My father also designed the ORIGINAL RCM Trainer... as was published in RC Modeler waaaaay back... like 66...67...
Old 01-15-2016, 06:00 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by swimmer316
Looking through additional items that came with my RCM Trainer I discovered a package of Dubro NY-Steel Kwik Rods eliminating the need for the gold n rods. These will be used for the rudder/elevator control linkages. That is a real plus having the rudder linkage pre-bent as it has to exit the top of the fuselage then snakes around to connect to the control horn. I'm sure my father-in-law bent the rod and he did a great job. I cut a short slit in the top of the fuselage close to the rudder so the rod can exit then enough slot to move freely. The elevator rod is a no brainer as it is a straight shot and will exit the aft end of the fuselage just under the horizontal stabilizer and direct connect to the elevator control horn.

swimmer
Good to hear from you...Your Dad designed some of the best flying planes I had ever known...and explains why there were a number of them in the Knoxville Tn area. (the designer being in Tennessee ) Recently got so wrapped up in foamies and fpv over the last 5 years , I plumb forgot about getting the Trainer down and finishing it....so goes back on my 'list'. That 40 trainer (3ch) was a smooth and fun plane to fly.!
Old 08-05-2016, 12:07 PM
  #81  
jj oroņo
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Hy

For me Bridi RCM 40 are the best Trainer ever designed: Stable, reliable and acrobatic

I had made Two RCM 40 and one RCM 20 (Scratch Build), unfortunately there is no longer RCM kits available in my country, but I hope some day to bay an original RCM Kit.

This is my latest RCM: A Skyblazers version

Bye and happy Landings
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Last edited by jj oroņo; 08-10-2016 at 12:14 PM.
Old 10-19-2020, 06:36 PM
  #82  
bash-ace-RCU
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Default Not letting this thread die!!!

Hello all, I've acquired a couple of these RCM Trainer kits which I plan on building over the winter. Is there any advice on making the wing "bolt-on" like the Great Planes Trainer 60?
Old 09-12-2021, 11:50 AM
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I have the RCM Trainer 60 and aquired a second one recently. Both were built from plans by a local, are electric and have aileron and flaps. Wingspan was increased to 70 inch. These fly great. Photos of the blue one attached. Will post the yellow one soon.










Old 09-12-2021, 11:51 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by bash-ace-RCU
Hello all, I've acquired a couple of these RCM Trainer kits which I plan on building over the winter. Is there any advice on making the wing "bolt-on" like the Great Planes Trainer 60?
Maybe you have already built them. In my previous post are photos of how the wings were made bolt on. It is an RCM Trainer 60.
Old 05-21-2023, 02:56 PM
  #85  
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Default RCM Trainer 60

Two were built electric with 70 inch wing span with ailerons and flaps.

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