Bridi RCM Trainer
#76

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: DERBY , KS
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I have a question about control linkages to the rudder and elevator. What are the pros/cons to using Sullivan Gold N Rod's red/yellow? Should I use conventional dowel rod linkage? Because I'm using the port side servo for nose gear/rudder control the wood dowels would have to cross in the fuselage. I've already connected a gold n rod to the nose gear which works very good. The other issue that makes me lean toward the gold n rod is the angle the linkage will have to exit the top of the fuselage to operate the rudder. Support for the outer sheath will be no problem close to the servos but there will be support issues where the rods exit the fuselage. I received my Trainer pre-built from my father-in-law and he made no provisions for securing control rods in the aft end of fuselage.
swimmer
swimmer
#77

Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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I've been following this thread for a while. The RCM trainer is one of my old favorites and it's always nice to visit old friends.
Regarding the use of Golden rods I find that they work very well but BOTH ends of the outer sheath MUST be well supported. Also be sure that where the rod exits the outer sheath that you use the steel threaded rods from there to the servos and the control horn(s).
I don't see why you can't use the hole where the original pushrods exited the fuselage and bond them there. The best glue I have found for gluing the outer sheaths is Automotive Goop. I also find it best to have a few inches of rod between the exit and the control horn. It allows the rod to work back and forth and prevent binding.
If you can't secure both ends of the outer rod then you should use solid pushrods.
Peter
Regarding the use of Golden rods I find that they work very well but BOTH ends of the outer sheath MUST be well supported. Also be sure that where the rod exits the outer sheath that you use the steel threaded rods from there to the servos and the control horn(s).
I don't see why you can't use the hole where the original pushrods exited the fuselage and bond them there. The best glue I have found for gluing the outer sheaths is Automotive Goop. I also find it best to have a few inches of rod between the exit and the control horn. It allows the rod to work back and forth and prevent binding.
If you can't secure both ends of the outer rod then you should use solid pushrods.
Peter
#78

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: DERBY , KS
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Looking through additional items that came with my RCM Trainer I discovered a package of Dubro NY-Steel Kwik Rods eliminating the need for the gold n rods. These will be used for the rudder/elevator control linkages. That is a real plus having the rudder linkage pre-bent as it has to exit the top of the fuselage then snakes around to connect to the control horn. I'm sure my father-in-law bent the rod and he did a great job. I cut a short slit in the top of the fuselage close to the rudder so the rod can exit then enough slot to move freely. The elevator rod is a no brainer as it is a straight shot and will exit the aft end of the fuselage just under the horizontal stabilizer and direct connect to the elevator control horn.
swimmer
swimmer
#79

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My Father designed this plane.... it was a real sweetie... the airfoil was extremely tolerant of abuse!!
This was the original... when we lived in Memphis Tenn.....
I have over the years seen several planes that were essentially copies....
My father also designed the ORIGINAL RCM Trainer... as was published in RC Modeler waaaaay back... like 66...67...
#80

Looking through additional items that came with my RCM Trainer I discovered a package of Dubro NY-Steel Kwik Rods eliminating the need for the gold n rods. These will be used for the rudder/elevator control linkages. That is a real plus having the rudder linkage pre-bent as it has to exit the top of the fuselage then snakes around to connect to the control horn. I'm sure my father-in-law bent the rod and he did a great job. I cut a short slit in the top of the fuselage close to the rudder so the rod can exit then enough slot to move freely. The elevator rod is a no brainer as it is a straight shot and will exit the aft end of the fuselage just under the horizontal stabilizer and direct connect to the elevator control horn.
swimmer
swimmer

#81
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maracaibo, VENEZUELA
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Hy
For me Bridi RCM 40 are the best Trainer ever designed: Stable, reliable and acrobatic
I had made Two RCM 40 and one RCM 20 (Scratch Build), unfortunately there is no longer RCM kits available in my country, but I hope some day to bay an original RCM Kit.
This is my latest RCM: A Skyblazers version
Bye and happy Landings


For me Bridi RCM 40 are the best Trainer ever designed: Stable, reliable and acrobatic
I had made Two RCM 40 and one RCM 20 (Scratch Build), unfortunately there is no longer RCM kits available in my country, but I hope some day to bay an original RCM Kit.
This is my latest RCM: A Skyblazers version

Bye and happy Landings

Last edited by jj oroņo; 08-10-2016 at 12:14 PM.
#82

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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: APO,
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Hello all, I've acquired a couple of these RCM Trainer kits which I plan on building over the winter. Is there any advice on making the wing "bolt-on" like the Great Planes Trainer 60?
#83

Join Date: May 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, CANADA
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I have the RCM Trainer 60 and aquired a second one recently. Both were built from plans by a local, are electric and have aileron and flaps. Wingspan was increased to 70 inch. These fly great. Photos of the blue one attached. Will post the yellow one soon.




















#84

Join Date: May 2013
Location: Moncton, NB, CANADA
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Maybe you have already built them. In my previous post are photos of how the wings were made bolt on. It is an RCM Trainer 60.