RE: WACO YMF
Hi Bill,
Well I got my ebay waco today, I just happen to in town on business and figured to stop at home, lucky for me I did the postman left the box on the step leaning against my front door and no one was home,I got to let the POknow about this, I don't know how long it was sitting therebut I got it. Like Michaelj2k said mine is the same description BLUE w/Yellow trim on the box.checked it all out and everything is there. Apparantly the seller is not the original owner, I found a sales receipt in the bottom of the box it reads as follows: Mutchler's Hobby shop, Corrydon,Ind. the date was 12/1/1983 The selling price was :D for the 1/5th scale WACO $ 97.95, When I read that I damn near fell over backwards George WACO Brotherhood #5 PS, wood & diecut in excellent shape like the box was never opened |
RE: WACO YMF
And, just as everything that is out of production, and is still sought after....the value becomes whatever whomever is looking for the item will pay. Obviously, we will continue to pay 3 or more times what the item sold for when new. I asked you if you wanted your money back, and you said no. Do you want to make a little money on it? [8D] The last one that I got from e-bay, I had the bid capped at 400 bucks. It took 335 to get it. I did get one for 250 a few months back.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
So Bill,
Seeing you never had your question directly answered, What was the verdict? is the WACO Vintage? George WACO Brotherhood # 5 |
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: ctflyboy So Bill, Seeing you never had your question directly answered, What was the verdict? is the WACO Vintage? George WACO Brotherhood # 5 Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
Hi Guys,
Just a quick note to say the wheel pants are roughed out and coated inside with epoxy, today I hope to do the final shaping and start the fiber glass work. I picked up a small can of fiberglass resin and some hardener, when I finished flying yesterday. Still curious, what is the difference between Nitrate and Butyrate dope? I have not bought either and I don't thinkI will need it with the Super Coverite, but one never knows. Jim |
RE: WACO YMF
Jim,
Nitrate dope is a nitrocelluloce derivitive, whil butyrate is a butyl derivative. You can put butyrate over nitrate, but not nitrate over butyrate. The nitrate is similar to automotive lacquer (in fact, we used to use nitrocellulose lacquer), and the butyrate gives a better final finish, and is considered to be more fuel-proof. The nitrate gives better adhension than does the butyrate, and the shrink rate for the nitrate is much higher. The nitrate also makes for a better sealer than does the butyrate. I can probably think up more differences, but these are the major ones that come to mind. Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
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Thank You Bill,
I never made that connection, now I understand that Nitrate is the base coat and what ever else one used would be the top coat. Sort of like putting enamel over lacquer, but you can not put lacquer over enamel. So once I get the wheel pants glassed If I needed more of a filler coat I could use the Nitrate? I took your advise and checked into glass wheel pants and they are not too expensive, but I had the laminations glued up and they were roughly shaped to all I had to do was cut them in half, hollow them out and epoxy them back together once I had coated the insides. If it gets nice out I may go fly today, (had my X-mitter battery die yesterday which cut my time at the field short) if not I will concentrate on getting the wheel pants fiberglassed. Jim |
RE: WACO YMF
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Jim,
I would use automotive spot putty if it was mine. Nitrate would not build up very much. It's back together again. Almost finished. I still have to put some more detail on, and a couple more items. Here's some pics. Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
Thanks, understand. Once the glass goes on I can use spot putty to fix the small imperfections. Should I put Nitrate over the glass or can I use the spot putty right on the fiberglass then prime?
You pictures are very good, looks as it the Tinker belle Express is moving right along. Did you use the Sullivan flying wire kit on the H and V stab? Jim |
RE: WACO YMF
No, I made my own. I will also be making the flying wires. Have you ever noticed that some automobile windshield wiper blades have stainless steel inserts that are about 1/8" wide and run full length of the blade? Some blades have two of these, and I will be using them for the flying wires.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
Bill,
Nice pics, and yes you are creative I would have never thought about a windshield wiper, And Vintage! yup, that works for me also. George WACO Brotherhood #5 |
RE: WACO YMF
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Just discovered the 1/5 Waco thread. It is good to know that others are building this plane. I am in the midst of finishing mine this Christmas. Some of the features I incorporated into mine from other info gleaned from the web:
I am powering mine with a q35 I have a servo in each wing instead of a bell crank set up. I have two dowels in the front of the wing instead of the one per plan. I mounted the servos for the rudder,elevator way back in the fuse. The nose was heavy anyway. I really appreaciated the pics on the wing fillets. I was in the process of figuring them out and the pics will help alot. I have an older Pica kit that did not have the abs fillets. For those who want them, I have made PDF files of the prints. I have a large format scanner here at work. |
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Jim Henley Thanks, understand. Once the glass goes on I can use spot putty to fix the small imperfections. Should I put Nitrate over the glass or can I use the spot putty right on the fiberglass then prime? You pictures are very good, looks as it the Tinker belle Express is moving right along. Did you use the Sullivan flying wire kit on the H and V stab? Jim You won't need to put any nitrate dope on the fiberglass. Just use the spot putty directly on the glass, and then prime. I would lay on a couple of light coats of primer, and wet sand them with 400 wet or dry (wet) and then do a couple of more coats of primer, and wet sand with 600 grit wet or dry. clean the parts and then clean them again. Clean them one more time prior to adding the paint. Did I mention to clean the parts before you paint them? Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
Thank You Bill,
I appreciate that information, and yes I do remember from long ago, cleanliness is a must before one attempts to put paint on anything. Particularly your automobile or airplane! Looks as if we have a new member to the WACO thread, there is a new photo posted just today the numbers are growing !! Jim |
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: ronj10 Just discovered the 1/5 Waco thread. It is good to know that others are building this plane. I am in the midst of finishing mine this Christmas. Some of the features I incorporated into mine from other info gleaned from the web: I am powering mine with a q35 I have a servo in each wing instead of a bell crank set up. I have two dowels in the front of the wing instead of the one per plan. I mounted the servos for the rudder,elevator way back in the fuse. The nose was heavy anyway. I really appreaciated the pics on the wing fillets. I was in the process of figuring them out and the pics will help alot. I have an older Pica kit that did not have the abs fillets. For those who want them, I have made PDF files of the prints. I have a large format scanner here at work. Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
Can't spell worth spit tonight (now don't you guys go saying tonight????) I meant to say this is the loosest organization ever.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
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This is the full scale F model that started it all for Pica. YMF-3 NC14031 It is the one that Dave Platt originally flattered further by modelling it. I looked over the thread again for the hundredth time and didn't see this book page already posted. I thought some may be interested in what this page says about the history of the original subject.
This is from a Raymond Brandley "Waco Aircraft Production 1923 -1942" published in 1978. Brandley published 2 more. "The Versatile Cabin Series" and the "The Famous F Series". I found them all on Ebay. If you persist they do appear once in a while. Kudos to all of you for such great work. Undoubtedly you all have inspired many individuals, myself included. Thank you Stickbuilder for starting this topic and sticking with it. I can't think of a topic that compares in enjoyment derived, at least for me. This is about all I can add (the attachment) that hasn't been said already. Thanks all, Bill |
RE: WACO YMF
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I'm not really sure how much value folks attach to the origins and history of the 1:1 scale subject. I hope that these attachments are out of the park, interest wise. It hadn't occurred to me that people may only be interested in the model. It is models that we are dealing with here.
A bit more history on YMF-3 NC14031 Serial Number 3944, Date of Manufacturing 6-21-34 Purchased new by Stephen J. Patterson of Brooklyn, New York through Waco Sales of New York. Finished in Insignia Blue with Cream trim edged in Gold. Cockpits were upholstered in Light Red fabricoid; seats were Spanish Grain Dark Red fabricoid. By 1935 the F-3 and F-5 were offered with the choice of 2 engines. The Continental R-670 with 210 hp which held the "U" designation and the Jacobs L-4 with 225 hp which held the "Y" designation. The F-5 had 15 % more area in the vertical stab and rudder than the F-3. The F-3 was considered lacking in rudder authority. The F-5 had a bit taller tail post and the rest was proportionally larger than the -3. Waco would also paint a new aircraft with any colour the purchaser wanted. They offered them in suggested colours but as a modeller you can paint your model with any colours keeping in mind the era and not give it the wrong paint job. A couple pages from the F book. |
RE: WACO YMF
No thanks are required. I love most things WACO. There is a YMF Classic that flies around our city most days. I got a peek up close on Saturday afternoon. I almost wish that I had copied the color on it, but then everyone would think that mine was the COX ARF version. I wish they had let the model die with dignity rather than make it available to all in the ARF version. I had even offered to purchase the kit rights from them, but was turned down. Cox will probably never offer the kit version again. I'm thinking about making enough changes to the kit and plans to not violate the copyright that they hold, and get Mace Gill (Aeroplane Works) to cut some kits, and offer them once again.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
My Brotherhood number?? You guys are serious. What is the last number taken, I will just choose the next. Anyway, I buy and sell alot of kits on ebay. I keep track of the waco's, I have a soft spot for biplanes. 4 weeks ago I saw an open box picture of a Pica laser cut kit kit that had the abs farings for both the top of the gear legs and the wing saddle joint. I can only guess that it was one of thier last enhancements before they went belly up. I purchased mine off ebay a year ago for 185.00. It was a new Pica white box edition but before the laser cutting. I guess I got it for a pretty good price seeing what they are going for now. They average 250.00 to 280.00. However, that late edition laser cut with the extra fairings went for 325.00. Can you imagine that?
Ron ______________________________________ If you love to build you have to pay the price. |
RE: WACO YMF
Can I have a number? :D How about a secret handshake or initiation rite? (Oh, never mind - building one is your initiation). ;)
|
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder No thanks are required. I love most things WACO. There is a YMF Classic that flies around our city most days. I got a peek up close on Saturday afternoon. I almost wish that I had copied the color on it, but then everyone would think that mine was the COX ARF version. I wish they had let the model die with dignity rather than make it available to all in the ARF version. I had even offered to purchase the kit rights from them, but was turned down. Cox will probably never offer the kit version again. I'm thinking about making enough changes to the kit and plans to not violate the copyright that they hold, and get Mace Gill (Aeroplane Works) to cut some kits, and offer them once again. Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 It speaks to your character that you don't want to step on others toes but if you redraw it and kit it but just dont call it a Platt, Pica or Cox then I think your good. They have likely as changed the construction somewhat for ease of arfing it. Maybe not but it happens to most existing designs that get arfed. They say "Repetition is the death of art". When it is guys building kits, the models end up unique in many other ways. When a factory is churning them out by the mile then it's the end to me and I choose not to stand there with the arf owner and pretend we are talking about the same thing when I built mine from a plan. I feel that this is just subjective on my part as others can't wait to buy them. They just have a different approach to it is all. The end result is that the arf is pi$$ing on my parade non the less. A friend of mine bought the exclusive rights to a Pitts plans series that others have copied identically but not used the designers name he owns. He can't do a thing about it, or at least doesn't think it is worth his while. And this plans service sells a lot of them. My friend produces one of the series as a 1/3 ARF Pitts. I'm making a move to 1/4 scale Waco Cabin jobs. I don't think they'll arf anything that has to be shipped in a piano box. Cheers! |
RE: WACO YMF
Let's see, George is #5, so you guys flip and see who gets #6, and who has to take the other numbers. Remember, no rules but one. Love the old ragbags. Like the man said...When the last WACO lands, the air will be nothing but air.
Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
RE: WACO YMF
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I have never made wing fillets before so this was a real experiment. I just kept throwing wood at it until it looked ok. Making them blend to the aft of the fuse was a trick but it does not look too bad. Not scale but I am pleased. It was better than no fillets at all. My kit had no instructions or such for fillets.
__________________________________ If you love to build you have to pay the price |
RE: WACO YMF
Now, I'm really going to make your day. Add a piece of balsa in between the stringers at the tail of your fillets. Go down to your neaghborhood home improvement super store, and get a tub (a small ...oh Hell, get the big one) of lightweight spackle. You will swear that the tub is empty. Lay the fillet in as smooth as you can, and once it dries (tomorrow) sand it smooth and slick. Paint it with nitrate dope to really harden it, and you will love the way it comes out. You can make the transition look like it was made from sheet metal. Most any covering material will stick to the doped filler, and you can even use iron on film if you really want to [:'(].
The spackle will also make a good filler for your low spots in the sheeting, and it sands easily, and get's as slick as polished glass. Once you use the dope on it, it really becomes hard to nick. Best of all, you could probably coat the entire airplane with it, and only gain a couple of ounces. You can even thin it with water if you need to. Note, do not try to force dry this stuff with your heat gun. It does not work (voice of experience). Bill, AMA 4720 WACO Brotherhood #1 |
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