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Happy savage 2011 owner

Old 02-08-2013, 11:19 AM
  #1  
rcbence
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Default Happy savage 2011 owner

So i thought id share a bit about the newest savage 4.6 truck. I got the pink body style. Looks alright after awhile. Anyways, its got about 7-8 tanks thru it and im finally there. Im using sidewinder 20% and 12% at the moment with good luck. A few things i did: The servos suck. The reciever battery suck lol. So i got a 1600 hump reciever and a switch that takes the standard size connector im used to. I can charge it without unplugging the battery also. I had a s100 high torque servo laying around.... i made this work as the throttle/ brake. I had to take the main gear out the hpi servo, and just put it in the s100. This is because the splines are different. I didnt want to use one of the conversion pieces because i liked the stock arm setup. It just requires lots of torque. I had to grind the shaft thinner to take that hpi gear. The s100 shaft end is slightly wider. So i got that to work. Looks all stock but with a servo that finally gives me brakes and good throttle. I dont use the stupid return spring on the carb. TOO much load on the servo. I instead adjust the ball end that connects to the carb to just close it when throttle is returned, plus a turn out to put just a little pressure so the throttle always goes back closed. No spring for me. I got a the common high torque hitec for the steering.... with a conversion piece and a metal servo arm to make it work because of the spline difference. No problem there besides locktight is a MUST. The servo arm screw will back out without it. Since its metal to metal fine thread now. Any LHS should have an arm and spline conversion set. Only thing is that servo is taking a dump and barely turns one way. What the heck right? Im planning on getting another s100 high torque and using my S spline conversion for it. This servo seems real tuff.

Tuning: The sidewinder is great. The stock R5 plug is great. The roto start works like a charm. Just carefull for over priming. Even if you do the roto stops and doesnt force the engine over. I always under prime and try to start it. The 4.6 has 4 head shims. I use thin solder (.023) thick to measure stock clearance. It didnt squish that at all. So i took 2 shims out and measured .012 give or take .001. Then measured the shims. They are .008 each for a total of .032. I calculated stock head clearance at a whopping .029 or so. With one shim it only has about .005. No shims will hit. So i setup for 2 shims at .012. This is PLENTYsafe. You can probably run .005 but when everything expands theres not much room for error. .008 to .015 seems to be a good goal to setup any nitro engine pretty much. Ive actually ran .005 on my ttr pro .46 on my escapade on 5%. I dont anymore, but it ran fine without any hitting or pitting going on. Like i said id go a little more to be safe. And yes 20% runs awesome with .012 clearance. You wont be pinging or running hot or anything. Tighter squish is all good. More power, more efficient, cooler more complete burn, causing less hot spots, id even think its better for your glow plugs. Less chance of fouling when you get a nice explosion. .029 is huge on this tiny engine. I run .040 on my 06 yfz450 and thats a 450 four stroke! Its way to big. Do yourself a favor and shoot for the target i mentioned. No need to run more than 20% fuel. Actually you should be able to run 5%-10% really well now with the tighter clearance. Maybe 1 step warmer on the plug if you go that low. Id like to try 5% omega eventually. Has more oil, but you wont be flowing as much fuel with 5%.....so it needs more. Runs great in a plane engine with .013 clearance why not a car engine? It would just fine im sure of it.

The only thing you need to do is shorten the fuel lines as short as possible. I run the fuel line in front of the carb so it doesnt touch the engine. Turn the nipple is all thats needed on the hsn. Once warmed up with full tank, i tune so its noticable rich with some crackle, then lean about an 1/8 or so from there just to clear it up. Thats it. No more tuning. at half and under i think it comes alive just a little bit...... but temps are stable and it runs all the way to last drop. I try not to run hard when theres barely fuel left. It doesnt really give symptoms untill its ready to die. Today i ran it real low and topped it off. Off the truck went. Still ran clean but on the richer side of things. Ran the second tank down with no tuning. its getting fun now. Low speed is easy. After hsn is close. I keep leaning the lsn untill you get the lean hesitation off the line. Then back it 1/4 turn and youll be super close. Maybe a bit of idle adjusting and then you wont be touching it much anymore.

So ya. Short lines. .012 clearance. 20% 12% fuel. Cold Plug. Runs awesome. The idle goes down a hair when idling, and of course after a long while it will load up, but thats normal for a 2 stroke like this. Run em HARD! I get atleast 15 seconds upside down on the lid with a short fuel line. I havent let it go longer yet. So atleast 15 seconds just idling is plenty of time to flip it for me. it might get a bit more but probably not much. A strong steering servo is just a must for this truck. Alright im done here.

Oh ya. With this specific truck, dont run any tank mods. Just shorten the lines. I ran the 1 way check valve with t fitting and all that.......... basically dont do it. Runs consistant with stock setup and shorter lines. i had problems and cutting out at half tank with the other mod. I followed the directions to a t. modified the check valve so it flows super easy and everything. It just wasnt consistant.

My engine temps? no more than 230 usually at all times. idles around 215 give or take. Basically it holds well with the body on. Also i break any engine hard once warmed up FULLY. Same with this. First tank once hot i tuned for power on the rich side of the setting. But no crackle four stroking stuff. Run them hard period. The internet has all kinds of crap break in ideas. I do this with anything with piston in it.

Old 02-08-2013, 05:16 PM
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rcbence
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Default RE: Happy savage 2011 owner

Just tuned it for omega 10% fuel with an os #8. This seems safer with this head clearance and is easier on the plug. I had a fresh gallon sitting and will run either 5 or 10% from here on out. Cheaper, longer run time, and idles better with a warmer plug. 20% seems high for a warmer plug. So why run high nitro with a super cold plug thats good for racing only..... not bashing. loads up on me way to fast with a cold plug no matter the lsn.
It doesnt even smoke more.
So i change my recomendation. If you tighten the squish just run 5-10% omega with a medium plug. 20 may be hot for a medium.....this is why hpi gives a cold one with it. Its sort of a scam to me. I dont really notice a difference in power. Maybe just a bit right up top. Still wheelies on demand when traction is there. Same temps pretty much. I noticed the same thing with my plane engine. I first ran 15%, then tightened the squish just a tad and run 5% now. Youd have to tach it to see the small difference. 30% is really a waist unless maybe strictly for racing or for someone who cant tune. Tightening the squish also broadens the needles as well. So it puts you close to where you were with 20+%. Ill need to get a vid up. No one would know better and think its running on 30%.
Old 02-08-2013, 06:19 PM
  #3  
llkoolskillet
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Default RE: Happy savage 2011 owner

I used to run one shim on my axial 28 1s with no issues at all. I ran odonnels 30% with a McCoy 59 plug. Thing ran like a beast. It was faster than my LRP 30 I had

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