only126db

Will not work with roto start, does work with pull start....

Need to do some tuning because at top end it starts to drop off in power.

Also the carb moves so I need to fix that too.

But it runs and drives for now, gonna have to order parts, but at least for Christmas the kid can do some driving.

savage dust bunny

If the carb is moving, then the engine may be sucking in false air - this will also affect performance. Not sure if you can tighten the set screw any more to make sure the carb doesn't move. I had the same problem and fixed it by only buying a new screw, not carb!

Happy bashing!

only126db

It is so loose I can actually pull the carb out and the screw is as tight as it will get.

Of course I will try a new screw first, though I am also looking at my upgrade options for the engine, I am kind of interested in the LRP ZR series engines.

-SomeGuy-

Those TVPs are the first version and they had the defect. That X under the engine is a weak point that will crumple. HPI quickly revised them and used to give out free ones just by calling them but I don't know if they still do that anymore. You will have to look into a new set eventually or else if it breaks there it will ruin your spur gears. Keep an eye on it for now.

savage dust bunny

Check ebay for jennys rc or perhaps jennys hobby. They usually have new tvps for looow prices.

only126db

Whats a TVP ?

SyCo_VeNoM

TVP= Twin Vertical Plate
Basically its the 2 metal plates on the sides which is what everything screws into

only126db

Well got the carb to not be loose, I put a washer on the screw that tightens the carb, problem solved, also loosened the screw @ the throttle linkage an now the thottle blade opens more too.

Too bad its winter and our road is snow covered, would like to be able to get some traction and set my tuning correctly to see where I am, rich or lean.

Any tips for snow tuning when you really cant hit full speed due to snow?

Right now I have everything set at about factory settings (flush) but at full throttle (not full speed) the engine doesnt sound that smooth.

SyCo_VeNoM

Watch these

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkzpdZGGXPM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIixfx58Dug http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4WbETNYa88 Shouldn't matter if you can hit full speed or not its all about sound, and temps

only126db

Thx for the vids, I took it out bashing a little since our roads got plowed and this thing really hauls butt!!! It seemed to go faster the more I drove it, I am thinking the previous owner probably didnt really break it in right...On the second tank it was just ripping it up, actually was getting too hard to keep straight due to the slick surface, at wide open throttle it would start drifting sideways. If the snow wasnt so deep in the yards I would have launched it off the snow banks some more but the kid said he was getting cold chasing it into 2ft deep snow when it got stuck LOL. Spring/Summer backyard bashing is gonna be fun, woohoo!!!!!!

SyCo_VeNoM

probably was going faster cause the engine was getting heated up to proper temps
Nitros drive like crap when the engine is too cold.

only126db

Well today it ran like poop, no matter how I adjusted it, it was dead on the top end, I tried rich, I tried lean, and it wouldnt shift either, then sometimes it idles really high and other times it died as soon as you let off the throttle. I am thinking I need to completely tear this thing down, clean & lube it, shelf it till spring, order some new fuel & glo plugs then start over completely with warmer weather.

only126db

Ok something new...maybe receiver got wet.... When I make a turn the engine revs up as if I were giving it throttle....Any ideas? (stock am radio)

Oh and I got it running decent again, but as soon as I touched the LSN it died, this carb seems overly tempermental, now has a bog (will not act right) if I dont ease into throttle.

-SomeGuy-

Nitro tuning has a very steep learning curve and sooo many factors can affect the tuning that you basically have to become a seasoned pro before it gets easier. Any change in humidity, elevation and temperature can ruin a perfect tune. In other words dont give up, keep messing around with it as often as you can. By the time summer rolls around you'll have a better understanding of that one aspect of nitro RC's.

only126db

Well, luckily its fun or I would be ticked off, I hate learning...

I am planning upgrades all ready LOL

Looking at waterproof servos, new transmitter/rcvr, and engine, along with brakes and a few other little options, adding it all up, this is one expensive hobby

-SomeGuy-

There are things you can do to waterproof regular servos like putting them in balloons or plasti-dip them. In general there is always a cheap home made way to upgrade the truck, let the Macgyver in you come up with ideas and try them out.

only126db

Ok I believe my receiver sucks, or....... I bought a traxxas failsafe, installed it and set it up cool, hopefully it wont take off on me now.

Probelm is I bought new fuel, was making some adjustments and the engine wouldnt start, got it to start and start consistently but it would die at idle after about 10-15 seconds.

Made some more adjustments, gave it some throttle sounded good, but after releasing the throttle the engine slowed as usual but then went almost wide open until I hit the brake or waited about 10 seconds or so (guessing on time it took to revert to idle I only let it go to idle 1 time since it had wheels off the ground and I dont know how good that is for the engine to run with almost no load). The throttle also acted erratic at times while doing its full throttle crap.

I took the fail safe out and it wasnt as erratic but still was and still went full throttle till I hit the brakes.

Its like the receiver is saying "hey we still want full throttle, oh wait never mind my bad"

The batteries are all new Energizer Max batteries.

Just took it out, was running great besides the throttle issue. when you have it at a distance from you it gets scarey when it keeps up the throttle.

SyCo_VeNoM

is it an am radio? (long antenna wire)
if is could b the issue savages kinda trash am radio antennas, or the radio is acting up

Other thing the trims might have been moved can try centering those 1st.

only126db

I have trims all good, yes it is an am.... Not sure if you remember a couple posts back I said it would give itself throttle during turns, well it seems to be doing it whenever throttle is touched so it leads me to think its a radio system issue, just seeing if there is something secret I may have missed.

only126db

SyCo_ I need a suggestion or suggestions as to a purchase I am planning.

I am thinking about the transmitter you linked to earlier from HobbyKing http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html I am also thinking I am going to go ahead and replace the current servos while I am at it, my question is should I go digital or stay analog? (will be switching to the rechargeable hump pack vs the AA battery pack too)

I also was looking at the FlySky FS-GT3C http://www.flysky-cn.com/eShowProducts.asp?id=49

I noticed some servos on ebay that look pretty nice for around $35 http://www.ebay.com/itm/278-oz-high-...item27dcbf671c

What should I do? Money is an issue so....

THX in advance

only126db

Carb is bad, throttle servo doesnt move from rest and engine races, cannot get any kind of tune on it.

SyCo_VeNoM

I own the GT2, and can say its a decent radio for basic settings the sucker from tests one guy did on it has over half a mile range. The GT3b I heard the 3c had a bad power switch early on, but some people ay they fixed it(but if they didn't I heard its only like a $1 fix or so its an issue with the power button).

I'll be 100% honest I wouldn't trust that servo in my cheapest RC. I like to save money on parts in almost all regards, but servos are one of those places I usually don't skimp as in servos (like nitro engines) you pretty much get what you pay for. I've bought cheap servos just to replace them within 30 seconds of using the RC as they gave out already... Also the cheap servo's usually tend to have high current ratings, and will kill your radio's batteries in short order.

Wish I could remember what HiTec I use in mine I think it was like $50 though at the time(its kinda old). There are also plenty of servo recommendations on these forums

But before changing servo's I'd just get the radio changed up then see if they are an issue.

Ohh and on that radio if you get it you just need to put a tiny piece of the antenna out of the radio box .

only126db

Ok, I hear about all sorts of good servos, but I dont want to spend $60-$150 on a servo, its just not in my budget.

I did do one thing, I checked for air leaks on my engine, the carb neck was leaking and so was the screw that holds the carb. I tried to find a couple o-rings locally but no luck, and a couple people told me to use RTV Silicone, so I did. I pulled the engine about 5 times and she started and idled!! I also found out a guy I talk with every so often was into Nitro trucks and used to race them so he is going to come by tomorrow and see if we cant get her dialed in. He doesnt run nitro any more though, he is into the electric scale trucks/crawlers now (all the lights and working winches and stuff).

I think the issue may have been the air leak because before I checked for leaks I noticed that the throttle servo wasnt moving when the engine reved after letting off the gas, I think it was sucking air creating a lean mixture causing the engine to rev up. We will find out tomorrow. If that was the issue, that will be great, it will also have taught me a lesson...(These little engines are temperamental)