46u

My Feedback: (3)

If people keep putting up with it they deserve what ever they get. I am from the old school where you do not give good service you do not stay in business but this day and age most go back for more. One of the many problems with our great country no more back bone.
Sorry just had to vent but I am sorry to say it is so true!

chubbysuncle

I tried the dual discs. They do stop a Sav X with the wimppy stock servo. Then I bent the discs on a rock. I flattened them out and sanded them down. I installed a high torque servo and all they would do is lockup instantly. I put the stock single on and everything is good. You guys eating up pads, are you running in sandy conditions? With the center "pad" being metal on metal it'll wear out quick and the vent holes will trap sand and tear the "s" outta everything. I've got a slighty used dual disc for sale, Cheep! LOL

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Trade ya for a French rifle, never used, dropped once

Or a new stock disk?

....or a big box of used RCR clutchsprings...used once

gleebs

I put my dual disc on last night and found that it was really tight. I am guessing the rods the shoes glide on are just not quite long enough once everything in on there. This is HPI's dual disc. Anybody else had this problem? I am thinking I will take out the tiny washer that goes on the end of the rod around it, and just have the end washer with screw. Unless I hear otherwise why that could be a bad idea.

Stablock

I've posted this a million times but it's a great way to improve the fiber disc brakes on a Savage by 110% that will cost you pennies !!!!!!!!!

I’m sure most will agree that the fiber brakes on a Savage are O.K. at best and fade a great deal. Keeping the disc clean with alcohol helps but they still suck. I’ve done a lot of research on brake topics in tons of forums and talked to a lot of people. They all say that you should do some, most, or all of the following:

1) Get a Hump-pac. (Well, I got it and I didn’t see much brake improvement.)
2) Get the Dual Brake set up with a Hump-pac. (Most people I talked to say it works well at first but wear out quickly.)
3) Get the Dual Brake set up AND hi-torque servo. ($$$$. But still they wear out quickly.)

Ok….the Hump-pac upgrade I agree with. That is good for both throttle/ brakes and steering and seems to be the first thing people buy for their truck. But I’m not convinced that the other two upgrades are worth the money. ESPECIALLY after doing the following:

Take the fiber disc brake off your truck and fill the little vent holes with silicone. That’s right… a good quality, indoor/outdoor, 100% silicone rubber. You probably have some already. You have to pack the holes with it. I stuck the disc to a piece of duct tape and filled the holes with a small putty knife. After it dried, I took the tape off and did the other side. After that side dried I took a razor blade and shaved both faces so no silicone was on the face, just in the holes.

I didn’t think it would last. I thought it would get all gummed up or fall out. But it worked (works) great. I was very hard on the brakes during testing and I’ve put over 2 gallons of fuel threw the truck and the brakes work the same as the first day. Yes, it can flip over if you are hard on the breaks, but usually only on the grass or on a dust free road with clean tires. For the most part, it just skids. Don’t get me wrong; the brakes are not ON/OFF like a light switch. You still have complete brake control. Its like having power brakes instead of the old manual ones!

Try it. You will NOT be disappointed!!

qaz393

brake drag, try adjusting your brakes

wingnuttzz-savage

thats 1 hell of a cool truck, u got anymore pics

love teh fastlane parts, that shall be savvy 1 day lol

and get crazy nutz dual disks, i have them and they are amazing

500 lb. koolaid man

my duel disc brakes ended up wearing out my big bevel gear and also broke 4 teeth off my small bevel gear. I'm just getting around to replacing both gears.

wingnuttzz-savage

i have just done the same thing lol

SAVAGEJIM

Cool trick. I'll give it a try. However, I'll have to change the hex style brake cup on my tranny, replace it with the stock cup, and get a stock adaptor brake hex and stock disc. Mine is th SS kit with only the dual disc brakes. The only thing I'm afraid of is that the hex adaptor being reamed round since it is only plastic.

As far as getting a set of dual fiver disc brakes, I've had serious second thoughts after seeing the following thread:

"Anyone thinking of ordering brakes from Crazynut better read this.
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=58136 "

I would prefer carbon fiber discs or plastic discs; it's just that plastic fails under heat (and braking creates heat as it transforms kinetic energy into heat energy). My neighbor got the fiber brake pad, installed it on the stock plastic brake hex adaptor, and reamed the adaptor round since the heat caused it to melt and fail.

As far as the dual discs from HPI, since they are metal on metal, the heat shoots through the metal pieces like a rocket and cooks all of the metal components. When I had to disassemble my tranny (I was upgrading to 3spd and adding a reverse module), I noticed the heat from the steel discs expanded the output shaft and pulling off the collet pin (#86094) from the shaft was impossible. I had to drill it out with a drill bit for cutting metal. Then, the hex cup was so heated from braking that it had bonded molecularly with the output shaft from the intense pressure caused by the shaft expanding against it. I had to hammer it out with a vise and punch. It was a real beeyatch. To help prevent heat from transferring into the output shaft, I now put thin strips of gasket material on either side of the middle brake pad spacer so that metal does not rub directly on metal when I brake. This is just a band-aid. The gasket material wears down eventually to nothing, the brake pads do the same, and soon, metal begins to rub on metal again. I now dread having to pull apart the brakes and pull of the hex cup from the output shaft since it is such a real beeyatch to do so each time.

Revo Eater

I have 5 gallons on my stock single disc brake. It works great.

SAVAGEJIM

Whoa! Way not cool! Dual disc brakes did that?

When you took apart your diff, did it look like heat damage help to contribute the bevels breaking? Heat can travel down the dogbone into the diff cup and finally into the bevel gears. I'm not sure exactly how much heat will make it into the diff since the dogbone is long and usually rotating at very high speeds so much of the heat may radiate off. Also, were you using the stock 2 bevel or the 4 bevel diff gears?

Revo Eater

Heat dosen't do that. It's the sudden stop of the moving parts that does that. I occasionally tear out a front bevel gear or diff from hard braking at high speeds. Especially on pavement.

SAVAGEJIM

Your tires have some serious grip. If I hard brake on pavement or asphalt, I wind up locking the wheels and my Savage begins to tumble into a sommersault. I guess if I bought road tires, they would grip like crazy and put the stresses you mention on my diff's. I have 4bevel gear diffs, those should cut the stresses on the diff gear teeth in half by distributing the force from the torque more evenly.

Revo Eater

It dosen't have much to do with the bevel gears in the diff. Its usually the pinion gear that ends up toothless. Although I did tear up a ring gear one time. I haven't had a problem since I quit locking up the brakes in grass or asphault.

wingnuttzz-savage

i have stock tyres, and they are quite grippy, when all the breaking force puishes the front end down

SAVAGEJIM

I now understand. You are referring to the 13 tooth bevel geat that is pinned to the diff cup on the outside of the diff case. Yeah, I can see that happening; I've yet to destroy the 13 tooth bevel. Mine are from th 4.6 SS kit. The 4.6 SS kit is advertised to contained hardened parts. I'm not sure if the 13 tooth bevel comes in a hardened version.

In both cases, outsisde bevel/ring and/or the 2or4bevel insided the diff, your tires must have some serious grip to pull teeth off of any of these gears.

Revo Eater

I run the HPI nubz. They are similar to bowties or crimefighters, but a little narrower. They hook up great at my track, which is hard packed clay with a 1/2" layer of dust on top.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Everything but the ring/pinion and gears inside the diff on the 4.6SS are hardened (IIRC), and I'm not totally sure about the transmission. I've got Hot Bodies hardened steel gears in my rear diff now..haven't run it yet, but everything feels nice, lol

I think the ring/pinion gears might already be hardened, but I could be wrong.

SAVAGEJIM

Thanks for the tip. I'm gonna try to run to my local RC store and find out if there are two different part numbers for each of the 13t and 43t bevels. If there are, I'll try to get a hold of the hardened versions as spares.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGV5&P=7 <in my rear diff...