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ugh... noob in distress :D

Old 08-03-2007, 01:00 AM
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holinger91
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Default ugh... noob in distress :D

ok... yea... got my savage 25 (used)... and i cant get it started... my friend also has a gas buggy.. so i took it to his house and he and his dad tried to help me... we got it running to where it would run, but if u pressed the break.. it died... his dad thought the tank was higher than the engine so it was flooding.. but no way thats the case without me hearing anyone talk about that.... its possible that the glowplug ignitor isnt the best ignitor i could have for the truck... could this be the problem? is my engine just pooped anyways? should i just go with the rule of thumb for some people and not even mess with a used engine and buy a new one and sell this engine? i'm willing to do anything... i desperately just want to get this thing running... i highly doubt if this is a tuning problem because we spent a good 4 hours trying... (and yes, it flooded sometimes and we went through the um... unflooding proces? each time)... please help
Old 08-03-2007, 01:06 AM
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takenotes Bch
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

I always say if it aint broke buy a bigger badder more powerful one[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]how hard is it to pull the pullstart with the glow plug in snugly
Old 08-03-2007, 01:17 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

Turn on the radio and the receiver in your truck(NOT the engine..) Take off the air filter. Give full gas - 1st, does the carb open completely? Then 2nd, back to neutral. Give brakes - the carb shouldn't move. If when you give brakes the engine dies then maybe your linkage is not adjusted right. Fiddle with it til when you give break that little 1mm-2mm gap stays there like it should. I had the opposite problem for a while, cuz my gerry-rigged up Ofna throttle-mod would give GAS so the engine would rev just after braking....

Maybe your idle could also be set too low? When an engine is being a PIA, I set the idle up real high - or just pull it open AS I start it, then bring it back down to where it'll keep running...

A good way to check your linkage BTW is to - again, turn on the radio and receiver(NOT the engine), place the truck on the ground, hold full-gas, and whle holding gas all the way down, shove it across the floor. As it's rolling, let go of the gas. Nothing should happen.
Old 08-03-2007, 01:31 AM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

takenotes: the compression is good

Patrick: ill check the linkage tomorrow... i've never checked that before so its a possibility.


thanks for the quick suggestions =D keep em comin... theres no way im giving in and going to the lhs to have the fix it for me -_-
Old 08-03-2007, 01:55 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

It's a carb gap/linkage/radio trim issue.
Old 08-03-2007, 02:28 AM
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takenotes Bch
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

ORIGINAL: holinger91

takenotes: the compression is good

Patrick: ill check the linkage tomorrow... i've never checked that before so its a possibility.


thanks for the quick suggestions =D keep em comin... theres no way im giving in and going to the lhs to have the fix it for me -_-
hey man theres nothing wrong with goin to the LHS, just don't let them fix it for you have them teach you how to fix. IM pretty sure your problem is your idle screw make it so when you look in the carb. there is a 1 1/2 mm gap
Old 08-03-2007, 02:38 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

A 1 1/2 meter gap would be a tad much methinks...
Old 08-03-2007, 02:50 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

Def check the glowplug...
Old 08-03-2007, 02:58 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

It's definitely what Patrick said. When you apply brakes, thecarb is closing and killing the engine. You may not need to adjust the linkage, just turn the idle screw in a bit (be careful, I'm talking about the idle screw, NOT either of the tuning NEEDLES). When neutral, there should be a 1 to 1.5mm carb gap, when you apply brakes, this should not change. Good luck.
Old 08-03-2007, 03:55 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D


ORIGINAL: PatrickBW

A 1 1/2 meter gap would be a tad much methinks...
lol I was thinking that too
Old 08-03-2007, 07:56 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

wow what a convenience, this is exactly what is happening to me and i was going to start a new thread. Im going to try the idle screw today and it should work, hopefully.
Old 08-03-2007, 10:09 AM
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takenotes Bch
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

ORIGINAL: PatrickBW

A 1 1/2 mm gap would be a tad much methinks...
1 to 1 1/2 is what the manual says but I might be reading wrong
foxy42
It's definitely what Patrick said. When you apply brakes, the carb is closing and killing the engine. You may not need to adjust the linkage, just turn the idle screw in a bit (be careful, I'm talking about the idle screw, NOT either of the tuning NEEDLES). When neutral, there should be a 1 to 1.5mm carb gap, when you apply brakes, this should not change. Good luck
and verified. +from past experience if it is under 1mm it wont idle right and on some engines wont even start without pulling the throttle when you let go it dies. my.002
Old 08-03-2007, 10:30 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

takenotes Bch, you said 1 to 1 1/2 "Metres" that's 100 - 150cm, 1000 - 1500mm..

You meant to say 1 to 1 1/2 Millimetres right?
Old 08-03-2007, 10:34 AM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

lol... ok well i hope thats right... ill be checking shortly... its not the glowplug, ive checked it and replaced it even tho it was fine... and it didnt change anything but ive never checked the carb like that
Old 08-03-2007, 10:42 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

I started a thread on this exact same question a while back and didn't get nearly this much advice[sm=lol.gif]

I think I solved the problem by putting the throttle trim on my engine ALL the way counter clockwise and re-adjusting the idle. But that lead to no breaks anyways

I read about this in my RC Driver magazine too, it said that the reason for this is your throttle trim is not adjusted properly.

Here's something for you to try. With the truck not running, receiver on, transmitter on, apply full breaks on the transmitter, and look at the linkage on the carb very very closely while doing so. if it moves the carb too(leading to less-throttle-then-idle) this is why it's stalling. But it almost has to move, otherwise your engine would have no reason to stall.
Old 08-03-2007, 10:44 AM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

Be careful, it's actually rarely the throttle trim. If you find you need all the trim in one direction, then it's time to reposition your servo horn on the servo. Follow the advice above, I'm 99% sure that the idle is your problem.
Old 08-03-2007, 11:31 AM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

yea, it idles fine, but maybe it needs to idle higher for the breaks... gonna check in like... 2minutes
Old 08-03-2007, 12:54 PM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

it was definetly a problem. breaks on, the gap was like only big enough to stick a threading needle into. i opened it up conciderably with that screw.... on idle, it is about halfway opened.... and at breaks it is now just a hair less... does that sound right?
Old 08-03-2007, 01:13 PM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

It sounds to me like you have issues with both your idle gap and your throttle/brake linkage. This is an area that's often misadjusted but it's really not hard to set up correctly.
Here's how I've been doing mine for years and years.
First disconnect the linkage from the carb. Now push lightly against the carb slide to close it. Now, using the idle screw, set the idle gag to 1mm-1.5mm. Now take the servo horn/servosaver off the servo. Now, on the transmitter, set the throttle trim knob to 1/2 way between left and right. Now turn on the transmitter and the truck. Your servo is now centered. Now install the carb linkage and the servo horn so that the carb is fully closed - you may have to adjust the length of the linkage rod that goes to the carb. Now you can adjust the rest of the throttle/brake linkage so the the throttle and brakes respond the way you want. I like my throttle response to be instantanious and my brakes to ease on rather than clamp down right away.
Those basic steps will pertain to most vehicles but there may be extra pieces of linkage and pivot points to consider. Still, it's not difficult to tell what needs to be done.
Hope that's some help and good luck.
Old 08-03-2007, 01:16 PM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

When applying the brakes the carb slide should not move at all. I think you have to adjust your linkage like some people already said. If you start it up with the slide halfway open like you said it is it is going to take off.
Old 08-03-2007, 01:33 PM
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takenotes Bch
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D


ORIGINAL: (X)

takenotes Bch, you said 1 to 1 1/2 "Metres" that's 100 - 150cm, 1000 - 1500mm..

You meant to say 1 to 1 1/2 Millimetres right?
oh sh$t damn typos my bad nice catch (X)
Old 08-03-2007, 01:37 PM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

To adjust your throttle/brake linkage.

Lets start from scratch. remove your throttle servo horn.

Set your throttle trim to the neutral position on your radio. (note your radio and reciever in your truck both have to be on/have power)

Position throttle brake servo horn on servo, so the throttle slide is fully closed. Don't worry about the throttle slide gap yet. (note to observe the throttle slide functioning you must have the air filter removed)

Set gap on throttle slide so you have a 1 to 2mm gap with the radio at the neutral position without you touching the throttle trigger. When you apply the brakes you should still have this gap, and when you apply full throttle you should slide should be completely open when looking into the mouth of your carb. you can also check to see if you have brakes which you should have when pushing the throttle trigger all the way forward to check the slide gap.

If unfamilar with the different carb screws Id go to HPI's website to find the information you need.

The screw with the spring adjust the throttle slide gap. The big brass tube sticking out of your carb holds the high spd needle which controls the top end performance. The screw that sits inside your throttle slide arm is the low speed mixture screw. The screw on the other side DO NOT TOUCH THIS ONE.

try setting the idle screw first the one with the visible spring on it before touching the others though
Old 08-03-2007, 03:31 PM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

i've found out all the screws.... and i think my idle is set too high, because its at half way... so to be careful i set in on a cinder block and yep... started her up and she tried to take off :P... its raining now so i cant really do anything at the moment.... not to mention i need to buy myself a new glow plug ignitor because right now it takes me many many pulls to get it started.... since the ignitor is from a raze :S :P.... can someone tell me which ignitors gonna be best? its a savage 25 SS... i dunno if weather and stuff has anything to do with ignitors but i live in south dakota
Old 08-03-2007, 06:18 PM
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

A easy way to set the carb gap is to open it up to the width of a credit card. Works everytime.
Old 08-03-2007, 06:29 PM
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holinger91
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Default RE: ugh... noob in distress :D

could someone take a pic of there carb with break on, and at neutral?

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