expensive problem
#1
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expensive problem
ok so iam now on my 3rd rrp clutch bell they just keep stripping my mesh is good the engine does not come loose cos its bolted with nuts on top its solid
the only thing i can think of is that the spur is too tight but sureley if it was to tight my front diff would blow b4 the bell this month i have went through about 90£ worth of kit
that includes the rw spur n bell which r crap so stay away
any help is appreciated
the only thing i can think of is that the spur is too tight but sureley if it was to tight my front diff would blow b4 the bell this month i have went through about 90£ worth of kit
that includes the rw spur n bell which r crap so stay away
any help is appreciated
#2
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RE: expensive problem
When your running metal spurs you need to run a hardened vented clutchbell. The regular clutchbells arent hardeded enough. also you need to make the shimming between the CB and spur a little wider not much maybe another papers width.
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RE: expensive problem
JUst because its a combo doesnt mean the clutchbell is hardened. I havent used any RRP stuff so I dont know for sure. Just buy a hpi vented hardend CB and try that once. Also mke sure your tvps dont have the thin x under the engine plate those old style ones tend to bend and break at that point.
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RE: expensive problem
see the thing is iv been useing rrp "robinson racing products" since i got my x ss and its just become a problem now it all checks out fine tvp's the lot it's got me beat[:@]
#9
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RE: expensive problem
iam starting to think its the spur assembley so i ordred all new bits the hub,spring,nut,slipper plate,slipper pads.
so i will see if that does the job i hope so or its getting sold to fund my baja
+ my mesh is fine
so i will see if that does the job i hope so or its getting sold to fund my baja
+ my mesh is fine
#12
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RE: expensive problem
with that setup you have to be dead on with the mesh or it just money down the drain, I ran that setup on my savy limited and it lasted for almost a year, then I did a complete teardown and got in a rush with the mesh, chewed the teeth right off the cb in maybe 30 minutes of run time...I switched back to the plastic spur and cb, and I haven't stripped a spur in over a year, I remember that combo costing about $35-40 when I got it...
#14
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RE: expensive problem
I have been running the RRP steel spur combo for over 18 months with no problems at all.
With a steel spur you need to have a tiny amount of play due to expansion of the steel when it heats up
Is the alignment of the spur and bell ok, is the spur making 100% contact, by this i mean I had to slot the holes in the engine plate to move the engine forward
With a steel spur you need to have a tiny amount of play due to expansion of the steel when it heats up
Is the alignment of the spur and bell ok, is the spur making 100% contact, by this i mean I had to slot the holes in the engine plate to move the engine forward
#15
RE: expensive problem
ORIGINAL: lauderboy
see the thing is iv been useing rrp "robinson racing products" since i got my x ss and its just become a problem now it all checks out fine tvp's the lot it's got me beat[:@]
see the thing is iv been useing rrp "robinson racing products" since i got my x ss and its just become a problem now it all checks out fine tvp's the lot it's got me beat[:@]
Metal spurs are a bandaid for a different drivetrain problem. There is no need to run metal spurs. In my 5 years of Savage bashing i've trashed maybe 3 spurs, all of which were my own fault, NOT the spur's fault....
#16
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RE: expensive problem
i will need to wait for my new rrp combo to come in the post maybe tuesday or wednesday to try again .
That takes the total spent on spur n bell combo's to 120£.
forsale 1 savage x ss very soon i think
That takes the total spent on spur n bell combo's to 120£.
forsale 1 savage x ss very soon i think
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RE: expensive problem
With the original did you get the combo or the spur by itself?
[link=http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/savage21-25.html]Sav[/link]
[link=http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/savageX.html]Sav x[/link]
If you only got the spur then this will more than likely be the problem
Reason i ask is that when you get the Sav X set up it only comes with the spur no cb, the rrp products are very hard wearing, most of the guys i bash with are running them and i have yet too see any problems with them, mine has shattered the cb bearings twice with no damage to either
[link=http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/savage21-25.html]Sav[/link]
[link=http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/savageX.html]Sav x[/link]
If you only got the spur then this will more than likely be the problem
Reason i ask is that when you get the Sav X set up it only comes with the spur no cb, the rrp products are very hard wearing, most of the guys i bash with are running them and i have yet too see any problems with them, mine has shattered the cb bearings twice with no damage to either
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RE: expensive problem
its the combo i but each time as thats all my lhs stock . i know rrp are very good as i have never had a problem untill now [:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]
#24
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RE: expensive problem
ORIGINAL: Vigilante212
When your running metal spurs you need to run a hardened vented clutchbell. The regular clutchbells arent hard enough.
When your running metal spurs you need to run a hardened vented clutchbell. The regular clutchbells arent hard enough.
I have used HPI's hardened racing vented clutch bells with steel spurs with no problems.
#25
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RE: expensive problem
ORIGINAL: badboy2
thats the disadvantage of using metal spur ..id rather try to get the mesh right with the plastic spur its a cheaper fix if u strip it ..
thats the disadvantage of using metal spur ..id rather try to get the mesh right with the plastic spur its a cheaper fix if u strip it ..