Rear wheels not getting power!
12-08-2008, 10:11 AM
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Rear wheels not getting power!
Rear wheels are not getting any power. The front wheels get all the power and they spin out. My guess is there must be something going on in the transmission. Any ideas on what I should look at?
12-08-2008, 10:21 AM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLG8&P=Z]This[/link] or [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLG9&P=Z]this[/link] is missing! [:@] I had that happen to me and it was kind of amusing seeing it as a FWD platform 
Once you replace them, make sure that you dab a lot of lock tight on them and check ALL of them...4 total
EDIT: damn it Glen, I wanted to be the first one! [>:]
Once you replace them, make sure that you dab a lot of lock tight on them and check ALL of them...4 total
EDIT: damn it Glen, I wanted to be the first one! [>:]
12-08-2008, 10:25 AM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
^^^also when you put in the new grub screw make sure you locktight it with blue threadlock or it will just vibrate backout again you could use red stuff if u wanna make sure it wont ever come back out but to get it out again you will need a lot of heat and a good wrench
12-08-2008, 10:38 AM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
Don't jump to conclusions. Everyone is saying it is the screw shaft... But the last time mine did that I smoked a bevel gear and pinion...
12-08-2008, 04:23 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
Tip it up on the rear tires and roll it around, if it stays silky smooth, it is the screw, if it rolls gritty....
.... it is probably one of those....
.... it is probably one of those....
12-08-2008, 05:58 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
tip it up, hold the rear driveshaft, and roll the wheels on thable or something, if the drive shaft is turning but gritty, it's your gears, if it doesn't spin at all, it's your screw.
12-09-2008, 09:05 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
I got the gear out and two teeth are sheered of at the bottom of the gear (towards shaft). What would cause this?
12-09-2008, 09:25 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
There is the back of the housing, I usually just pull the six skid plate screws on the bottom of the chassis, the long ones go in the rear, the flat head or pan heads go in the center. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or a hooked pick and pull the clips that hold the bumper braces in. Remove the shaft screw out of the pinion. remove the side screws on the skid plate, that should allow the bumper and skid plate to be removed. Now you should be looking at the rear of the truck and can make out the screws, remove all six screws out of the back I usually just pull the hinge pins too. Now you should be able to slide the back part of the housing out. You can inspect the gears and if the pinion is broken, just pull it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Replace it and go back together. Be sure to clean out all of the grease and broken gear parts so they do not get into the new one. I use Mobil one wheel bearing grease when I assemble them. Be sure that all the bearings are smooth and tight while you are right there. When you put the new pinion in, be sure to hit the collar so your rear shaft in in the drive cup and secured.
Take some photos with your phone or digital camera to help line things up when you go back together the first couple of times. It sounds tough, but it really is pretty simple. I think the toughest part is getting the back part of the case lined up properly. When I go back together, I usually set the bottom of the truck on a box, tire, roll of packing tape, something to get it close to normal height. As a matter of preference, I put the lower hinge pins in first, it makes the axle line up easier for me. Those little purple supports for the differential across the top can be threaded in from the side before the upper arms are installed. I am guessing 20 to 30 minutes? Clean up time and all.
If the pinion is not broken, you probably broke an axle or bevel gear inside that metal differential case that has you ring gear on it. It is pretty simple too. I am sure I forgot some small step, but that is the general basics of what you are looking at.
I think you can actually leave the bottom two screws and bottom purple brace on during disassembly, but I always find myself fighting the parts when I go back together. Glen
12-09-2008, 09:30 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
Normally landing a high jump under power is what breaks them. The rear tires are zinging, the clutch is locked up and all of the driveline is tight. When the tires land with the truck weight crushing them, they stop or slow instantly. The impact shatters the gear. I have broken them cartwheeling before, but not these newer ones. I have also broken a front one by wedging the nose of the truck under the back of the tire on my pickup. Same thing, driveline pulling hard, front tires stopped instantly, pinion not up to the strain.
12-09-2008, 09:37 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
I am betting you landed primarily on the rear tires under power. The weight of the truck stops the tire or really slows it down immediately upon impact and the gear loses. Not a bad deal really, I would rather have it there than in the transmission.
12-09-2008, 09:38 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
ORIGINAL: BudBud
There is the back of the housing, I usually just pull the six skid plate screws on the bottom of the chassis, the long ones go in the rear, the flat head or pan heads go in the center. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or a hooked pick and pull the clips that hold the bumper braces in. Remove the shaft screw out of the pinion. remove the side screws on the skid plate, that should allow the bumper and skid plate to be removed. Now you should be looking at the rear of the truck and can make out the screws, remove all six screws out of the back I usually just pull the hinge pins too. Now you should be able to slide the back part of the housing out. You can inspect the gears and if the pinion is broken, just pull it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Replace it and go back together. Be sure to clean out all of the grease and broken gear parts so they do not get into the new one. I use Mobil one wheel bearing grease when I assemble them. Be sure that all the bearings are smooth and tight while you are right there. When you put the new pinion in, be sure to hit the collar so your rear shaft in in the drive cup and secured.
Take some photos with your phone or digital camera to help line things up when you go back together the first couple of times. It sounds tough, but it really is pretty simple. I think the toughest part is getting the back part of the case lined up properly. When I go back together, I usually set the bottom of the truck on a box, tire, roll of packing tape, something to get it close to normal height. As a matter of preference, I put the lower hinge pins in first, it makes the axle line up easier for me. Those little purple supports for the differential across the top can be threaded in from the side before the upper arms are installed. I am guessing 20 to 30 minutes? Clean up time and all.
If the pinion is not broken, you probably broke an axle or bevel gear inside that metal differential case that has you ring gear on it. It is pretty simple too. I am sure I forgot some small step, but that is the general basics of what you are looking at.
I think you can actually leave the bottom two screws and bottom purple brace on during disassembly, but I always find myself fighting the parts when I go back together. Glen
There is the back of the housing, I usually just pull the six skid plate screws on the bottom of the chassis, the long ones go in the rear, the flat head or pan heads go in the center. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or a hooked pick and pull the clips that hold the bumper braces in. Remove the shaft screw out of the pinion. remove the side screws on the skid plate, that should allow the bumper and skid plate to be removed. Now you should be looking at the rear of the truck and can make out the screws, remove all six screws out of the back I usually just pull the hinge pins too. Now you should be able to slide the back part of the housing out. You can inspect the gears and if the pinion is broken, just pull it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Replace it and go back together. Be sure to clean out all of the grease and broken gear parts so they do not get into the new one. I use Mobil one wheel bearing grease when I assemble them. Be sure that all the bearings are smooth and tight while you are right there. When you put the new pinion in, be sure to hit the collar so your rear shaft in in the drive cup and secured.
Take some photos with your phone or digital camera to help line things up when you go back together the first couple of times. It sounds tough, but it really is pretty simple. I think the toughest part is getting the back part of the case lined up properly. When I go back together, I usually set the bottom of the truck on a box, tire, roll of packing tape, something to get it close to normal height. As a matter of preference, I put the lower hinge pins in first, it makes the axle line up easier for me. Those little purple supports for the differential across the top can be threaded in from the side before the upper arms are installed. I am guessing 20 to 30 minutes? Clean up time and all.
If the pinion is not broken, you probably broke an axle or bevel gear inside that metal differential case that has you ring gear on it. It is pretty simple too. I am sure I forgot some small step, but that is the general basics of what you are looking at.
I think you can actually leave the bottom two screws and bottom purple brace on during disassembly, but I always find myself fighting the parts when I go back together. Glen
12-09-2008, 09:46 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
Nope, he was trying to answer somebody not getting full power to either axle. 
Bad bearings or stretched and worn housings can also cause the pinions to fail. Normally it is an impact problem.
Bad bearings or stretched and worn housings can also cause the pinions to fail. Normally it is an impact problem.
12-09-2008, 11:17 PM
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RE: Rear wheels not getting power!
ORIGINAL: JesseJames
I had pretty much taken the whole rear end apart.
I had pretty much taken the whole rear end apart.
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/858/
scroll down till you see the thing that says "mouse over to start"
it is that easy