The_Shark

here is my two cents on aluminum plastic and fiber.


knuckles should be aluminum- the weight gain is minimal, and it reduces flex and damage.
A-arms should stay plastic, aluminum is heavy and bends easily here.
chassis braces should be aluminum- it reduces the flexing and makes the car harder to bend.
shock towers should be aluminum- adds weight, but improves durability and precision.
bumpers and skids should be plastic- aluminum bumper are pointless, a hard, unforgiving bumper is like hitting the bare chassis, plastic absorbs the impact and breaks before the aluminum bends.

servo trays and servo saver braces should be fiber- further improves rigidity and keeps servo stroke consistent (no bending while turning)
body mounts should be plastic
gas tanks should be plastic (why waste money on shiny aluminum?)
wheels should be plastic- aluminum here is easy to bend and costly to replace.


always keep the vital parts strong, and the replaceable parts flexible. carbon should be avoided on all impact zones (shock towers bumpers ect) its very hard, either it will shatter, or break the parts its attached to (hmm.. a shock tower or a diff case?)

head_hunter

Do aluminum tanks keep your fuel cooler than plastic?

mubus

maybe because aluminum expels heat quickly
this is why when you put aluminum foil in the oven for 1 hour and take it out its not hot at all

rcnitrohead

The temperature of the fuel in the tank is negligible. The carb is hot anyway, and depending on the material of the carb- the fuel comes very close to or actually boils if its of metal construction. Aluminum is nothing special with regard to heat dissipation, its ALL about bling. There are few functional pieces you can put on your truck that are made out of aluminum. Here is a pic of my truck, this is a good a idea of whats good to put as aftermarket on your ride. The only thing I'm missing as a vital part is an aluminum steering rack:

http://yfrog.com/jndsc04231j

I used to be into carbon fiber. I had CF hinge pin braces, hinge pins, toe links, and was going to buy a CF chassis when I raced my Savage.. But the company I got my pins and toe links from- they all fell apart. So be careful. Xtreme R/C makes good CF stuff, stay away from JD Carbon.

lightning73

burned up my first one way bearing yesterday, guess i gottta get a new one tomorrow...are they a P I T A to swap out? oris it fairly easy to do? any tips or pointers?...i havethe savage x 4.6"rtr"

mubus

i just realized the axial owb and the hpi owb are almost identical if not the same
but the only difference is that axial owb is cheaper by at least half the price... wonder why..

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

The Axial OWB will NOT work in the F4.6. The K4.6 in the X SS, yes...NOT the F4.6 in the RTR.