codefive

I have a brand new Nitro Monster King with the included .15 engine with roto start. When I crank over the engine I have to hold the controller about half open throttle to run. It runs for about 20 seconds and then instantly stops. I started changing the needles on the caburator and probably made it worse. I know that the needles are supposed to be level but can someone please tell me how many turns they have on each needle (low / high)on their carb so I can start back at the stock configuration.

wolfie1

once you have the needles back at the settings the instructions recomend try a new glow plug in and try it, i dont know how many turns out that should be for the stock settings

secretsg

Just set it flush. Use a flat ruler etc to measure.

Take off your air filter and and turn the electronics on, see how much gap the carb has when you turn on the brakes. With what you are describing there, you mostly likely will have to adjust the idle screw to open the gap more.

Also check your throttle brake linkage while you are at it.

fluxme

My Feedback: (18)

yes all the settings go flush. start it it will run real rich thats the way hpi whants them to be broke in,but it might be to rich,turn the hsn clockwise 1/18 turn and try that,look at your glow plug to it might be getting wet too much fuel lean it out a bit

codefive

It has been a long time since I worked with these engines. How should the glow plug look when I have it in the ignitor? I remember that they used to get really bright orange (hot). I took my glow plug out and it seems like it is a very dull orange barely visiable. I have all the needles flat. Should I start leaning out the high speed slowly? Is the idle determined by the high speed or the low speed needle? With the radio onI have the carb open about the same as I used to on my hpi .12 so I should be good there.

Thank you for all your help!!

alvinl

The motor that came in my Nitro King runs pretty good at close to factory settings. I only leaned out the high side maybe 1/4 of a turn. But I did completely seal the motor before break-in. Plus, I changed the glow plug so I really don't know how the stock one does.

The idle adjustment is on top of the carb, between the air filter and the block. Its not adjusted by the high or low needles. With the motor sitting sideways, the head of the idle screw points toward the side of the rc, or the top of the motor.

SLAYERDUDE

+1 on that.

What kind of ambient temps are you running in?
In F.

jester125

What type of plug did you use to replace the stock one?

thanks,Chris

alvinl

Last time out, it was mid 90's but relatively low humidity. The motor was running around 220.

codefive

Def. had a problem with the glow plug ignitor. I got a new one and I can turn the car on now. Here is where I am at. It idles fast but steady. The tires move when it is on. Basically no smoke comes out the exhaust and it seems like there is a lot of fuel comming out the back. When I put my hand there in the exhaust there is a good mist comming out. Basically it idles for about 20 seconds then dies. If I lift the car up so the exhaust is face down a few drops of fuel will come out. Does this mean I am too rich? When it dies it dies instantly, it does not bog down or anything. One second it is on running then the next it dies.

alvinl

How much of the break-in process have you done? You want it running rich until you finish the break-in.

codefive

Basically zero because I can barely keep the thing running. Total time I would say it has been on for less than two minutes

alvinl

The first thing you are going to want to do is put everything back to stock like was suggested up top. If you have not read the manual, grab a coke and give it a read. Do not skip this step! There is a lot of info in the manual tailered just for the beginner. We have all been there once, so don't feel like you are the only one. Then you need to do the full breaking process as described in the manual. If it will not run at idle, there is a throttle trim on the radio. Turn that up a tiny bit, just enough so it will idle without dying. Run the first tank with the wheels off the ground idling, just like the book says. Let it cool to room temp. Run a 2nd tank while doing slow circles in a parking lot. Maybe 1/4 throttle. No full throttle yet, you want to baby the engine. Again, let it cool to room temp. Now run a 3rd tank at no more than 1/2 throttle, again doing slow circles in a parking lot. Let it cool to room temp again. The Nitro King has a pretty good run time on a tank of fuel, so the break-in will probably take you a couple hours. Be patient, baby it, and get the motor broken in. Then, and only then, do you want to start adjusting the carb. After break-in, I adjusted the high side of my carb 1/8 to 1/4 a turn in and that has been it. It is running great at close to stock settings with good pickup, a steady idle and lots of smoke.

secretsg

It may help to buy some nitro spray and clean the exhaust out. Because the way the muffler is set up on this truck, the excess fuel passed thru the engine during break in does not like to come out.

alvinl

Codefive, how you coming with the break-in on your nitro king?

codefive

Looks like things are better now.I took the engine out and reviewed everything. I reset the carb screws to flush. I put in a new plug and seems like I can now finally get the engine running. I had to lean out the high speed needle about a quarter turn. It seems though that it just stops running still. It is running great and then all of a sudden it stops.

I will run it some more and post again. Thank you everyone for your help

wolfie1

that sounds about right for break in, nitro engines dont run great until there is a bit of wear in the bore