CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
#51

The main landing gear is next.I had two wheel options to consider.
I have always used Dubro 4.5" Lightweight Treaded wheels on my 40% planes.They weigh 4.2 ounces each.
Pilot-RC had recently announced a new line of wheels.Their 4.8"wheel was listed as being 3.4 ounces.I asked Tony whether they were durable and he said they were.I got a set and they really are only 3.4 ounces for a 4.8" wheel.
#52

I had three axle options to consider.
- 6mm axle setup supplied (.8 ounces per side)
- 3/16" steel axle setup (.7 ounces per side)
- 3/16" titanium axle setup (.5 ounces per side)
The 6mm axle installation using the supplied hardware is bulletproof.The CARF-Models plane at my field with over 1,500 flights has the stock axle setup and it is completely maintenance free and super strong.I don't have wild landings and I practice and fly contests on smooth runways so I can consider other, less tolerant, axle hardware.
I didn't consider the 6mm axles with the Pilot-RC wheels because they would have to be drilled out to match the axle.The wheels are copper bushed, so I had no interest in drilling out that hole.
There are some concerns with the 3/16" titanium axles being appropriate for a 40% plane.I didn't consider the titanium axle with the Pilot-RC tires because they are very firm tires.It would have been the lightest option.
There were three remaining options. I've chosen to install the Pilot-RC wheels on the Dubro 3/16" axles (4.1 ounces per side).That is only 4/10ths of an ounce heavier (for both wheels) than the lightest option and should work well.I consider this option to be 1.8 ounces lighter (for both wheels) than the stock setup (supplied axles and Dubro 4.5" wheels).If you normally use 5" Dubro wheels your weight savings with the Pilot-RC wheels will be even more.
With that said, if you have the occasional rough landing, miss the runway, fly off rough fields, or have any other scenarios where you need maximum axle strength, please use the supplied axle hardware.It is only 2/10ths of an ounce heavier (for both axles) than 3/16" steel axles and will last forever.
#54

The instructions talk about drilling a 6mm hole for the stock axle. I'm using the Dubro 3/16" axles that need a much larger hole for mounting. The hole would bearound 8mm. I wanted to mount the axle a little further up to make sure there was enough material left around the hole.
I now had three reasons to shorten the legs.
- less camber
- more material for mounting the Dubro axle
- it reduced the weight by 2/10ths of an ounce
I'll be running a 30" prop so clearance is no issue. I chose to shorten the gear legs by 3/4".
I made sure the gear legs were the same length after they were shortened.
I ended up taking about half the camber out.
#56

The blind nuts for the landing gear bolts have already been installed in the landing gear plate in the fuselage. Each gear leg is mounted with three M6 bolts and washers.
The landing gear bolts are installed from the bottom of the fuselage and the access holes were done at the factory. Just slide the legs in from the side and bolt them on.
The gear leg has just a little camber remaining and should be perfect once the engine and cowlis mounted.
#57

The wheel pants are installed next. The instruction manual doesn't provide much information and only one picture of it installed. It does mention that some of the pictures in the instructions are from the SuperXtra or Extra 260 "where the construction and assembly are identical".
The wheel pants have a recess in the side. This is how they mount to the gear leg for an Extra 260. The gear legs come straight down out of the fuselage on an Extra 260.
The Extra 330SC has a forward slanted landing gear.
I found a picture in the SuperXtra photo sheet on the CARF-Models website that showed the recess being filled with plywood.
The Extra 330SC has a forward slanted landing gear.
#58

I used the kindergarten trick of putting a piece of paper over the recess in the wheel pant and running a pencil back and forth. It created the shape I needed for the plywood spacer.
I did the fine trimming with some scissors until the paper template fit the recess perfectly.
I transferred that to a scrap piece of 1/8" lite ply and cut it out.
#60

The instructions say that the M3 bolt above the axle "sets the precise angle of the wheelpant". What was the correct "precise angle"? This picture shows it best.
When the rudder post is straight up and down, the wheelpants are level. No problem. I set my fuselage so the rudder post was straight up and down.
#61

Let's mount the wheelpants!! 

I have a magic bit for my Dremel. It's some sort of router bit that goes through lite ply and fiberglass like butter. I used it to open up a slot so the wheel pant could be slid down on axles and a hole so the wheel pant could slide in and rest on the landing gear leg. I used an Xacto to clean up the corners of the hexagon so it would go over the axle.
I set the wheel pant over the axle and moved it in next to the gear leg. I had already drilled ahole in the landing gear leg for the M3 bolt. I setthe wheel pantat level (the rudder post was still straight up and down). Iwent through the holein the landing gear leg and started to drill the hole into the plywood that was added to the recess. I didn't go all the way through the plywood. I just drilled enough to mark it.
#63

I put a blind nut in a small scrap of 1/8" lite ply. The blind nut was about 1/16"thicker than the plywood.
I drilled a hole big enough for the blind nut in another scrap and used it to draw the blind nut all the way into the plywood.
The hole on the inside of the wheel pant had to be opened up a little to accept the part of the blind nut that was sticking out of the plywood. I glued in the plywood plate with the blind nut using thick CA.
#64

The one photo of the wheelpant installation in the instruction manual seemed to hint that a wedge was needed to support the side of the wheel pant. The side of the wheelpant is flat and the landing gear leg is curved, so it makes sense.
I cut a scrap of 1/8" lite ply even with the back and top of the plywood filling the recess in the wheel pant. The front edge of the wedge stopped at the line I had drawn that was at the front of the landing gear leg.
I thick CAed the wedge to the side of the wheel pant. I thin CAed the exposed surface of the wedge that goes against the landing gear leg to give it a little extra strength.
#66

I slipped the wheelpant down on the axle and then in to the gear leg. The M3 bolt is used to secure the wheelpant.
The little wedge worked out just right. The wheel pants have just a little bit of camberthat matchthe wheels. I'll be coming up with a simple way to paint the plywood spacer and wedge black.
When I do the final attachment I'm planning on using a drop of silicone where the hexagon in the plywood spacer goes around the axle.
#67

ORIGINAL: Dean Bird
CARF-Models has two Extra 330SC specials running right now. One is a limited time free color swap on the Chequer Scheme for either the 102" or 122" Extra 330SC. The other is a 10% discount on current U.S. inventory of certain schemes of the 122" Extra 330SC.
Click here for details on how to request either of these specials.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11470517/tm.htm
ORIGINAL: Dean Bird
Wow!!I think I found my next plane.
The resulting “Chequer Scheme” was a combination of two full scale schemes with the checkers added to the top.I think it turned out amazing!!
The resulting “Chequer Scheme” was a combination of two full scale schemes with the checkers added to the top.I think it turned out amazing!!
Click here for details on how to request either of these specials.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11470517/tm.htm
$289 off the Romanian Scheme (stock number 291000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCuzvG7geks
$309.00 off the French Scheme (stock number 292000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3rgx8ecaEA
$299.00 off theCARF Scheme Blue-White (stock number 293000)
It reminds me of the Futaba scheme that was on their Super Xtra.
When you get your quote on one of these planes, ask your Sales Rep for the 10% off "Special Thread deal".
#68

ORIGINAL: Dean Bird
I just talked to one of the U.S. Sales Reps and they only have three left of the current inventory in the U.S. warehouse that are getting the 10% off Special Thread deal. There is one each of the following schemes of the 122" Extra 330SC that will be discounted at 10% until they're gone.
$289 off the Romanian Scheme (stock number 291000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCuzvG7geks
$309.00 off the French Scheme (stock number 292000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3rgx8ecaEA
$299.00 off theCARF Scheme Blue-White (stock number 293000)
It reminds me of the Futaba scheme that was on their Super Xtra.
When you get your quote on one of these planes, ask your Sales Rep for the 10% off "Special Thread deal".
ORIGINAL: Dean Bird
CARF-Models has two Extra 330SC specials running right now. One is a limited time free color swap on the Chequer Scheme for either the 102" or 122" Extra 330SC. The other is a 10% discount on current U.S. inventory of certain schemes of the 122" Extra 330SC.
Click here for details on how to request either of these specials.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11470517/tm.htm
CARF-Models has two Extra 330SC specials running right now. One is a limited time free color swap on the Chequer Scheme for either the 102" or 122" Extra 330SC. The other is a 10% discount on current U.S. inventory of certain schemes of the 122" Extra 330SC.
Click here for details on how to request either of these specials.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11470517/tm.htm
$289 off the Romanian Scheme (stock number 291000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCuzvG7geks
$309.00 off the French Scheme (stock number 292000)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3rgx8ecaEA
$299.00 off theCARF Scheme Blue-White (stock number 293000)
It reminds me of the Futaba scheme that was on their Super Xtra.
When you get your quote on one of these planes, ask your Sales Rep for the 10% off "Special Thread deal".

There is one Romanian Scheme and one French Scheme of the current inventory in the U.S. warehouse that is available with the 10% off "Special Thread deal".
If you want one in that scheme at this special price, get it.
#71

I used a drum sander in the Dremel tool to sand off the doubler tapefor about 1/2" from the edge. When you're done you should only see and feel one smooth layer all the way around the edge of the hatch where the canopy will be glued.
#72

The hatch is ready. Now we can trim the canopy.
The first thing to remove is the vertical piece at the front and the horizontal pieces on the side.
You need a sturdy, sharp pair of scissors.
The canopy is easy to trim with the scissors if you work with the canopy upside down and always cut in a counter-clockwise direction.
The front and side material was easily removed.
#73

With the scrap pieces trimmedoff the front andsides, the canopy can sit on top of the hatch. There are five index dots around the front edge of the canopy. We'll use that center index dot to keep the front of the canopy centered.
Mark about 1" of material at the back and remove the scrap from the rear of the canopy.
The canopy is now sitting pretty close to where it will be mounted and we have an inch or more of overlap between the canopy and the hatch. Keep the center index dot centered on the center line of the hatch and position the back part of the hatch where it rests most naturally.
Make dots to leave about a 1/2" margin all the way around. Be sure to only put Sharpie dots where you know they will be trimmed off. Those Sharpie marks are permanent and will be seen when you look in the canopy if they aren't trimmed off.
#74

Don't they say, "measure twice, cut once"?
Make sure you like where you want to trim. We're getting closer to the final fit.
If you like where they are, trim off all the dots. This is easy trimming when the canopy is upside down and you're trimming counter-clockwise. That is, of course, assuming you're doing this right handed.
It's close on the outside. Now the hatch is removed and held upside down. Place the canopy down inside it. Center the index dot on the center line of the hatch and get the canopy into its most natural position. Get the sides of the canopy so they have matching overlaps onto the hatch. That's how we'll now when the canopy is in the correct place.
- The center index dot is centered on the hatch
- There is an equal amount of canopy overlap on the bottom ofboth sides of the hatch
I also ended up taking about another 1/4" off the front edge. The edge of the canopy won't sit flat on the hatch at the front. That will provide a nice little lip for the glue to wrap around. Itrimmed the front edge so there was just a little bit oflipabove the hatch.
#75

I went to Home Depot to rent a Shop-Vac to do this install. They only rented vacuums that sucked. Bummer. I looked at buying one, but the Ridgid brand they sold only had one model that was also a blower. It was a vacuum with a detachable motor on top that could be used as a leaf blower. Hey, I already own a leaf blower. 

I looked at the instruction manual to see about where the opening for the canister would be. I opened up a hole the correct shape for the nozzle on my leaf blower.
The leaf blower nozzle is inserted into the motor dome.