CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
05-13-2013, 05:11 PM
#101
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
Before I glued in the servo trays, I put marks at the ends of the mounting lugs to help make sure the tray was centered properly in the hole when it gets glued into place.
As the instruction manual states, "It is very important to prepare the inside of all composite parts properly, by sanding and cleaning with denatured alcohol or equivalent, before gluing any parts to them."
It also says, "When sanding any areas of the inside of the fuselage to prepare the surface for gluing something onto it, do NOT sand right through the layer of glass cloth on the inside foam sandwich! It is only necessary to rough up the surface, with 60/80 grit or equivalent, and wipe off any dust with alcohol (or similar) to make a perfect joint." Enough said.
While I had the holes open, I knocked out the wood oval that I had installed for the titanium wire on the tailwheel assembly.
05-13-2013, 05:12 PM
#102
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I really wanted to try some of that Hysol stuff, but I didn't have any clamps to fit in these little holes. I didn't feel like holding each tray for 6 hours while the glue cured, so I used 15 minute epoxy.
I let that cure overnight and the used the Dremel router bit to clean out the excess that was in the servo hole.
I held the servo centered in the hole and used an awl to mark the center of the hole for each servo screw.
You can see that there is a lot of material around the servo screws.
05-13-2013, 05:13 PM
#103
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I chose to use #2 screws for these servos, so the holes were drilled with a 1/16" drill bit. Again, you can see there is a lot of plywood surrounding the screws.
I pitch the phillips head screws that are supplied with the servos and use socket head screws from Micro Fasteners.
And the rudder servos are mounted!! 
05-13-2013, 05:15 PM
#104
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
While I was working on this end of the plane, I added the nylon thrust bearings to the phenolic arms for the rudder. The rudder was even quicker than the elevator bearings. The 13/64" drill bit could reach two phenolic arms from each end. That only left the middle phenolic to drill by hand.
The difference with the bearings is that the rudder has a thicker phenolic arm at the top and bottom. The McMaster-Carr part numberon the bearing for the thicker phenolic armis 7817K54. The part number on the bearing for the normal thicknessphenolic armis 7817K53.
If your plane is a "2013 Series" you'll need thirteen of the 7817K53 and two of the 7817K54 for your plane. If you picked up one of the planes on the 10% off Special Thread deal, you'll need bearings for the ailerons too if you choose to do those.
I put in all the bearings with the larger flange facing up since I plan to inserta 4mm carbon hinge pin from the top.
I also attached a new tailwheel assembly with traditional steering.
05-13-2013, 05:16 PM
#105
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I put the stabilizer on to show the clearance between the elevator and the rudder.
The elevator is down at about 35 degrees. That's significantly more than it will ever move. The maximum elevator throw I'll have is about 25 degrees.
Here is the clearance between the elevator and the rudder pushrod.
05-13-2013, 05:17 PM
#106
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
Mounting the servos in the tail was no problem. I have plenty of clearance, the two mounting trays I builtare lighter than the rudder trays for the pull-pull setup, the weight I've removed from the tail should take care of the weight of one servo, and the remainingweight of oneservo in the tail should be about the same impact on the CGas the two servos mounted in the rudder tray behind the hatch.
Since I'm setting this up for competition, Ifelt like push-pull was the only option. 
05-14-2013, 10:36 AM
#108
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
ORIGINAL: Texastbird
This is going to be a fabulous plane.
This is going to be a fabulous plane.
I wanted everyone to see that these installs can be done with the most basic of tools. The only powered tools I've used so far is the little jig saw that's been in a few of the pictures, an electric drill, and a Dremel tool.
And it doesn't require a big shop (as long as you have an understanding wife). I did the servo installations in the stabs and wings on the family room coffee table with a towel underneath. I've done all the work to the fuselage on an ottoman in the living room.
Anyone can have an awesome looking plane with world class flight capabilities!! It doesn't require a fancy shop, and fancy tools, and 500 hours to build and finish it. And when this one is done it will last forever (or at least until somebody balls it up).
05-17-2013, 03:51 PM
#109
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The next installation is the engine. I chose to use the DA-200M. I think the net weight won't be much more than if a DA 170 was mounted.
The CARF-Models 122" Extra 330SC doesn't have an extra charge for a fuselage that will accept a 4 cylinder engine. It is ready for your 4 cylinder engine when it comes out of the box.
If you're mounting a 2 cylinder engine, there is a motor dome extension included that will be added to the motor dome. I didn't weigh the motor dome extension and the plywood supports inside it, but it is extra fuselage weight that I won't have with the 4 cylinder engine, making the net weights of the 2 installations a little closer.
The motor dome extension does seem to have the benefit of the thrust angles already being set.
05-17-2013, 03:52 PM
#110
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I had these pictures from other DA-200 installations on this airframe.
The method of suspending the engine and using washers/spacers to get the correct alignment before drilling the bolt holes looks like a good way to mount the engine with one person and basic tools.
05-17-2013, 03:53 PM
#111
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I wanted to find the lightest way to mount the engine that provided the most support for the engine backplate.My original idea was to have a 3/32" plywood plate the same shape as the engine backplate and the holes drilled for the 1/4-20 mounting bolts. A short length of1.5" diameterdowel that had been centered drilled for the 1/4-20 bolts would be glued to the back of the plywood plate. The ends of the dowels would be sanded at an angle at the firewall to provide the correct thrust angle. The end grains of the dowel would be thin CAed to harden the wood. The bolt heads would rest flush on the engine backplate. The plywood plate would tie the four dowel standoffs together to provide the support I wanted for the engine.
That idea needed drill presses and power sanders. The idea was more than my hand held drill and Dremel tool could manufacture. I headed off to a secret workshop in town with all the best tools from Harbor Freight. Unfortunately,no pictures are allowed. 
We started with my dowel idea, but the dowel material was too soft and broad grained. It split on the grain when we started to send the angle.
On to plan B. The plywood plate idea turned into five layers of 1/4" plywood laminated together, 1/4-20 holes drilled to match the engine backplate, the outside shaped to match the engine backplate, and the inside drilled with a 1.5" hole saw. It gets sanded to the correct thrust angle.
I'm sure it's lighter than a stack of fender washers. It ended up about an ounce heavier than an SWB mount and the added spacers. But this mount provides 100% support of the engine backplate!!
05-17-2013, 03:55 PM
#112
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The flat surface of the mount is where the engine backplate sits. Again, that is so the bolt heads are flush with the engine backplate when you tighten them. The angled surfaceof the mount sits on the firewall. I made four 1.5" diameter plywood disks that were a 1/4" piece and a 1/16" piece laminated together. I sanded the disk at an angleso that the 1/16" layer was gone on one edge of the disk. The angled edge of the disk will sit on the back of the firewall so the blind nut is at the same angle as the bolts coming through the firewall.
The stock blind nuts were .5 ounces. My four disks with the blind nuts weighed 1.3 ounces, so I'm .8 ounces heavier than the stock installation. I was O.K. with that to get the correct angle on the blind nut and simplify the installation.
This mountingmethod requires a LOT of patience. The mount is sanded until the thrust angle is correct and the distance from the cowl ring to the backplate of the spinner is what you want. That will requirethe cowl going on and off the plane many times.
When that is done it's a matter of where to mount it. Get as close as you can and then drill two of the mounting bolt holes in diagonal corners. Bolt the engine on using those two bolts and the blind nut disks. The cowl goes on and off many timesuntil you get the engine right where you want it. We had tape under the mount and were putting marks on the tape for where the mount should be placed after removing it and adjusting the two holes.
Once the engine is where you want it with the two bolts holding it, drill the two remaining holes. Check the alignment one last time. If you like it, remove one bolt at a time, put epoxy on the blind nut disk, and reinstall that bolt. Let the epoxy on the blind nut disks cure overnight. The engine is mounted!!
You can see the tape under the mount that we used for alignment marks while the final position was being determined.
05-17-2013, 03:56 PM
#113
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
With the blind nut disks installed the mount position is set. Now the plywood mount can be glued to the front of the motor dome. I sanded the area where it will be glued on.
I had titanium bolts to use so I saved the .8 ounces that was added for the blind nut disks.
05-17-2013, 04:00 PM
#116
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
When you're done, you're hoping the spinner matches the up/down thrust, the left/right thrust, and the spinner is centered in the cowl ring.
Then we hope all the thrust is correct when we fly the plane and start working on the setup.
05-17-2013, 04:01 PM
#117
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I ended up with a mounting method that took assistance, took a lot of time, is a little heavier than my original plan, and isn't very flexible if later adjustments are needed. If I were to do this again, I would just go with the SWB mount and spacers.
With that said, I love the incredible support this method provides for the engine!!
05-17-2013, 04:03 PM
#118
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
One of the purposes of this build thread is to highlight the "2013 Series" enhancements on the CARF-Models 122" Extra 330SC. It may not have been obvious, but the cowl is now mounted at the factory. That saves a couple hours. Thanks, Andreas!!
If you don't mind mounting the cowl yourself, I think they still have a Romanian Schemeand a French Scheme available with the 10% off Special Thread deal. You'll have to check with one of the U.S. Sales Reps to see if either of those two planes are still available.
05-24-2013, 03:21 PM
#119
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The next installation is the baffling and cooling for the engine.
The horizontal baffle will be built using 1/8" lite ply.
Then the "air scoop", created by another pilot named Henry Piorun, will be bolted to the horizontal baffle.
05-24-2013, 03:22 PM
#120
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
The horizontal baffle has to be cut to go around the engine and to fit inside the lower cowl. The instruction manual says, "A full-size template for this baffle is included at the end of these instructions". I didn't have anything in my instruction manual.
Ichecked with Andreas. The template was provided by Niklas Roth. Andreas hasn't been able to get a DA 200 to check to make sure the template is the correct size, so it hasn't been included in the manual yet. Once he's comfortable it's correct, it will be added to the online manual linked above.
Andreas sent me the MS Word document with the template. The template is printed on 8.5" x 11" paper. That's how it can be part of the instruction manual.
The individual pieces are cut out and taped together to make the left and right side templates.
You get the general idea of the scoop being mountedon top ofthe lite ply.
05-24-2013, 03:23 PM
#121
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
Along with the "air scoop", Henry was nice enough to send a tracing of the cutout in his baffle. The template is for his Extra 300, but it's much closer around the engine than the one Andreas sent.
I used Henry's template for the lines around the engine. I cut out that part and left the back of the piece of paper where I wanted the back of my baffle.
So this template is used for the back edge and the edge going around the engine.
05-24-2013, 03:26 PM
#123
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
Before fitting the sides of the baffle, make sure you have the side of the lower cowl taped to the fuselage so it stays in the correct position.
Then position the baffle over the engine.
Then I used the CARF-Models template to get the correct shape the match the side and front of the cowl.
05-24-2013, 03:28 PM
#125
RE: CARF-Models 2013 Series 3.1m Extra 330SC
I made up some brackets using 1/2" squares of 1/4" plywood.
I thick CAed them on some triangle stock with about 1/4" space in between them.
Then I cut them apart. The triangle stock extends about 1/8" past the sides of the plywood square.