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How do "guy"/"support" wire My Extra w/1.10 fz

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How do "guy"/"support" wire My Extra w/1.10 fz

Old 03-11-2004, 12:02 AM
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Default How do "guy"/"support" wire My Extra w/1.10 fz

A while ago i had a problem with those CA hinges that come with most 60 and under kits on the market(they failed). The kit was an GP extra.60 witha ys 1.10.The failure was very strange....the whole right elevator stab and control surface flew off! I have since rebuilt the elevator with modifications like aerodynamic counterbalances and a slightly different control surface shape, to allow more rudder movement, dont worry I pretty much did all the mods that a bunch of people did in "kit building" to get better performance(the post was something like Gp extra all 3d'd up). Well i would like to add support wires or guy wires to make it a little stronger(like the kind they have on old bipes....) and it has a freaking powerfull engine on it(ys 1.10) The reason being the stab looks pretty thin being that it is not airfoiled like i wish i could have modified it to be but im not that good(yet, lol) If anyone has any ideas on how i might do these guy wires it would be great. Or if anyone has already put them on there plane and explain how they did it ......Thanks
Old 03-25-2004, 11:16 AM
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Default RE: How do "guy"/"support" wire My Extra w/1.10 fz

Sullivan makes a real nice "flying wire" kit that is easy to retrofit to just about anything. I added them to my GP Extra after loosing the first one due to stab flutter. I do know that the stabs(mostly the horizontal) are susceptible to flutter, alot of it due to being flat, with no built in triangulation, which is inherant with a foiled stab, much stiffer.
I added some "hard-points" in my Extra during the build, that gave me a place to mount the wires.
Here's a few pics that might give you an idea of how I did it. The kit to do it is about $20...small price to pay compared to the cost and time of a new kit. It's held up like this now for almost 3yrs too. To get the most strength though, you have to put them on both top and bottom. A small cut in the covering should give you access to put a few small mounting blocks inside for mounting points.
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