Franco2fly

No you will need the "Y" because the lead from the Hall effect pick up goes to the CDI normally, here,  one leg feeds the Ignition box, and the other is going to the TM1000....  You wouldn't get a spark if you neglected the CDI box that provides spark.

KKKKFL

AndyKunz

An extension is OK to use, but the Y cable makes it easier to bind.

Andy

BlackBeast

Hi all,

I know i'm a little late on this one but i'd like to thank you for this tip.

I now have RPM from my DLE-20 to my DX-8.

I used two wires setup.

Thanks again!

Franco2fly

On my DLE I use the tachometer lead from the
ignition module THEN use the isolator that horizon hobby
sells (it comes with their motors so I don't know the part nr
matbe Andy can tell us). This prevents noise getting into
the TM1000. I've been using this set up for the past three
weeks

kkkkfl

AndyKunz

Can you post a photo, Franco? I don't know what you mean either.

Andy

BlackBeast

@Franco2flyYes would be nice if you post a pic plz.

Franco2fly

The one in my RV-4 is buried, but here's the cable I'm talking about. The electronic ignition for both DLE and Evoloution Gas engines provide a cable called Tachometer. Evo engines however have this additional cable. I put an arrow around the piece that I am guessing is an optical isolator. You still need to pay attention to routing to keep the spurious RF from getting into the RPM input of the TM1000. When this happens you will see that the Telemetry bars are still present, but nothing is updating. Using this isolator, along with the green Torrid Doughnut was the answer for me. JR sells these torrid cores, and I think I posted a pick a few threads back...

KKKKFL

Franco2fly

Didn't see the coil picture, so here's one on an ESC, I had an old ESC that stopped working so I just cut the lead and then put the greenie as close to the RPM input connector as possible. Your DLE ignition module should have a cable labeled Tachometer. Actually, this can be plugged in to the TM1000, and you will initially get RPM readings, but within a minute or two the telemetry freezes. First I just went with this green coil, but it only bought me an extra minute or two. Since I plugged the Evo isolator cable in and included the Green Torrid coil, everything has worked flawlessly.

Let me know how this works for you, and Andy, if there's someone in the electronics lab that could fill you in on that little plastic box within the lead, I sure would like to know if my guess is correct. We should prolly find a part number for it too!

Tks

KKKKFL

Franco2fly

I didn't like that first photo, it was out of focus. Here's a better one you can see the micro connector, and also the isolator the arrow point to. Since this one is still in my old cherokee, it doesn't have the torrid coil (Yet)!

Hope that this helps all reading the thread.

KKKKFL

BlackBeast

Here is what i found : http://www.horizonhobby.com/ignition...dapter-evoa107

It's called : Ignition Telemetry Adapter (EVOA107)

AndyKunz

That's why I didn't know what it was. It's an Evolution part!

Andy

Franco2fly

That's the ticket guys. And I'll bet Andy you'll
find that it is an optical isolator

kkkkfl

BlackBeast

According to my telemetry, my DLE-20 with a 15x8 blade, spins 9300 RPM static and more than 11 000 RPM in flight. Is it possible?

Also i think my temp sensor is wrong cause it reads 320 °F. I have installed it behind the head the most near the plug as i could.

Franco2fly

Sound to high. Use another RPM device then adjust the spectrum
ratio. I think I'm using. 1.1 to 1. But might have that backwards. My DLE has temp sensor stuck
in the first level fins. Temp at idle is 170. Max in air reading today was 205

Len Todd

Initially, I had seen 300+ temps on my DLE 111 and, ... they were actually 300+ temps! Once I baffelled the inside of the cowl, they dropped back to ~ 220 - 250 Degrees F.

300 + is possible but not desirable. Try some baffling to direct the air right onto the cylinder(s) and open up the exit at least twice as big as the inlet. I even put an air dam before the exit to create a bit of a pull on the air. Getting the air moving right onto the cylinder(s) w/o bypassing will drop those 300+ temps. You may even have to open up the inlet on some planes. 200-250 seems acceptable.

As far as the RPM, I have tried several props on most of my engines before getting the right RPM/thrust combination that I wanted. Usually I wind up with a 3 bladed prop. It gets the prop and engine noise down and still gives me the thrust I want. I confirmed the Telemetry with a ground test using a hand held tach. I never had to make any adjustments to get an accurate reading. ?? But I use a different RPM sensor.

The Tach circuit from the ignition boxes give off a dirty signal. Maybe this HH Isolater will work. I am reluctant to directly hardwire any CDI box circuit to my Rxers, given the signals on the CDI's Tach line that I have seen with a scope. HH also has a stand alone optical RPM sensor. I put the target on the back of the spinner and mount the sensor on the cowl. Works reliably! But, I may give the new one a whirl to see if anything gets past the thing. Getting the signal from the Tach ouput on the CDI box does seem like it would be an easier way to get a signal and it is one less connection to undo to remove a cowl.

Franco2fly

Len,
Since you have a scope, I sure would like you to check the output line in the configuration that I use.

I use the isolator that HH sells, (Im guessing its an isolator, can't get confirmation as to what the clear plastic box on the line contains from HH) and
use one of those torrid coils just before the RPM micro connector. I saw in the local hobby store a pack of these coils marketed by JR.

So far I have had bullet proof Telemetry, although for some reason the Min/Max screen sometimes fails to record Max Airspeed, or Max RPM. Its weird
because It might do this on the first flight then work perfectly on all subsequent flights.

Anyway, I would love to know what the O'Scope shows as to the signal post Torrid coil and HH isolator.

As for the optical pickup, I can get them to work, so long as there is an abundance of light. If you have a really tight fit between the cowl and the spinner, you'll be SOL

Thanks

KKKKFL

Len Todd

I ordered one of the EVOA107s this A.M. When I get it, I'll take a look at the signals.

I don't have my UHF Scope any more. Being out of the UHF Repeater Biz these days, I sold my good scope this year. Can't see $10K sitting around in a RF monitor that is only used once a year or less. Bought a jet. But, I can still get a good idea what's on the line with my other scope.

Franco2fly

Remember the torrid coil in your test. I'll buy
a pack and send you one in the mail!

Len Todd

I have some from old ESCs. But, you maycome up with some that have a different base material. So please feel free to send it. Also, How many turns are you using?

Franco2fly

I cut the one off a Dynam ESC then got the micro connector through
about 5 times.

kkkkfl

gbrod

My Feedback: (4)

Hi all,
My setup: Spectrum QQ18x Transmitter, AR12020 RX and TM1000
My telemetry has been working fine for rx volts, failsafes and holds, and battery volts.

1) I recently installed the Temp gage in the back cylinder of my DA 150. It reads around 300F but my temp gun reads 160 ?
2) I installed a second hall pickup in the engine and connected Black-black and signal-signal to the TM1000. The rpm readings are totally erratic. They seem to stabilize at times but are all over.

Any suggestions.
Best
George

Franco2fly

If your DA 150 has an electronic ignition, and provides the Tachometer lead, use the Isolator (Here is what i found : http://www.horizonhobby.com/ignition...dapter-evoa107

It's called : Ignition Telemetry Adapter (EVOA107))

just prior to the white micro connector I put a Ferrite coil, (sometimes called a torrid coil) I don't have a part number but JR products have them. Loop the white connector through
the donut about 5 times. Your RPM reading will stabilize.

KKKKFL

Len Todd

The chip (EL357N) on the EVOA107 is in fact an optical Isolater. I put a couple RF Signals on the Tach Output side and saw nothing on the TM1000 side. So, ... It may very well work. I still need to set up a DLE on the bench and then take a look at it. That may take a couple days.

Franco2fly

Thanks for that feedback. I have used it on several different ECI's now and it seems to work well. I'm probably just genuflecting by adding the torrid cores, but it can't hurt.

KKKKFL

Len Todd

Actually the RF Choke may actually make a difference. Put it on the harness right next to the Rxer. Have to disassemble the JR connector to get the pins on the wires thru, but they do go thru. Putting the choke there addresses any RF that may actually couple with the line between the Isolater and the Rxer. But, given the limited testing I did the other day, it really should not be needed if you keep the wires away from the ignition system.