building board
09-12-2011, 07:45 PM
#2
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RE: building board
ORIGINAL: tech1wi
What is everyone using for a building board for wings etc. ??
What is everyone using for a building board for wings etc. ??
09-12-2011, 09:00 PM
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RE: building board
I took the plunge and built a steel top bench for use with magnets. The bench is 3/16" steel plate, 24" x 80". The base is made from 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF sheet stock. Works super well and I regret not making one earlier in my modelling career!
Bruce
Bruce
09-13-2011, 03:07 AM
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RE: building board
I just made a new "building-board" as an experiment and have built 4 wing panels on it, so far. It works great and cost me about £3; for the chipboard. I already had the required blind nuts and hex-head screws.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden "clamping fingers", rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden "clamping fingers", rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
09-13-2011, 06:52 AM
#14
RE: building board
I use a piece of glass, tempered, 1" thick, 4' wide X 8' long with a piece of ceiling time on top. I just expand the number of ceiling tiles if the model is larger then the tile. I can also use suction cups with clamps on the glass. It stays flat, cleans easily, and stays put. Originally, it was supposed to be the bottom of an aquarium.
09-13-2011, 07:23 AM
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RE: building board
I'm in the process of moving my workshop. I've built a new bench to augment my existing setup. The old workbench is a solid-core door on a frame of 2 X 4 legs. It's okay but not perfectly flat. The new workbench (pictured) is a torsion box design. 97" X 32" MDF for the top.
09-13-2011, 07:46 AM
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RE: building board
I tossed a solid oak door on my workbench and laid a piece of drywall cut to size on top. Very flat, large surface. Now I just gotta build something!
09-13-2011, 08:04 AM
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RE: building board
Soft pine with cross braces across the bottom to keep it from taking any warp. I glued two pieces together to make it wide enough, that was two decades ago. This year I needed a wider board so I glued another piece onto it. If you have a biscuit joiner it makes a much stronger board.
09-13-2011, 09:40 AM
#19
RE: building board
I am on top of an exterior building board similar to ceiling tile & trimmed to fit, on top of a table top made of a 2 inch thick & shortened heavy fire door with 4 x 4 frame & legs. I also use my A - Justo - Full House Wing & Fuse Jig.
09-13-2011, 11:08 AM
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RE: building board
I use a 24" wide door with ceiling tiles attached with a few spots of 3M 77 spray. On top of this I have a 6' x 2' x 1/8" neoprene mat. The mat keeps the tiles from spalling and helps hold pins in tight.
09-13-2011, 12:01 PM
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RE: building board
Iwould love to see a picture of this board - it sounds like something I've been trying to design...
Thanks,
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: bogbeagle
I just made a new "building-board" as an experiment and have built 4 wing panels on it, so far. It works great and cost me about £3; for the chipboard. I already had the required blind nuts and hex-head screws.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden "clamping fingers", rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
I just made a new "building-board" as an experiment and have built 4 wing panels on it, so far. It works great and cost me about £3; for the chipboard. I already had the required blind nuts and hex-head screws.
The board comprises a hollow box-section which is made from 18mm chipboard off-cuts. The DIY store cut the board into four parallel strips, using its large/accurate vertical saw.
I screwed the sections together, such that they formed a rigid box which is 5 feet long, by about 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide. Two parallel rows of 6 mm blind nuts are let into the upper surface of the building board. These accept 6 mm hex-head bolts which are used to clamp the wing structure to the board. I've made a number of wooden "clamping fingers", rather like the old-fashioned systems that were used to clamp work to the tables of milling machines.
The upper surface of the board overhangs the central stiffeners by a couple of inches. This overhang accepts G-clamps, if they should be required.
Obviously, this board won't accept pins ... but the clamping system has completely obviated the need for pins. Well, that's been my experience so far.
The system will enable me to build accurate fuselages, too. I'm quite pleased with it.
09-13-2011, 04:42 PM
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RE: building board
TIP FOR CIELING TILE USERS: use up a .99 can of white walmart spray paint on the cieling tile and it won't fuzz or dust any longer.[8D]
09-13-2011, 05:10 PM
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RE: building board
check out your local lumber yard for 4 by 8 sheets of what we used to call beaver board. it is like ceiling tile but 1 inch thick. pinsd go right in and i have used this for years with no problemsd. in the north east,,curtis lumber has it.