10 bucks is way over priced

id rather pay less for more just a quick example http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=13038

Yes there are others but they are not titanium and do not say they are counter threaded,, but the price is right!

Just giving the best option. (giving money is not an option)

Cheers
Tim

If money wasn't an option I would have a fleet of full scale

I put well over 100lbs of force on my rod setup and it held. this was in the pull direction. Being that they are short(4"-5") they are also very strong in the compression direction. I am sure that the longer the rods are the weaker they are in the compression direction. I did not try to bend them in the middle as the rods will never see this force on the plane. I am cutting the rods to full length and utilizing all the threads in the ball end for extra strength as well. My 33% Waco weighs in excess of 60lbs fully loaded and I am fully confident in these rods holding.
Build one and test it out.
Just my .02
Anthony

What I do when I need to make a rod longer then normal, or exact is; I do use the 4-40 threaded rod, then cover it with carbon fiber tube that fits over the 4-40 rod. It not only makes it look good, but does add more strength too. You can then put ball links or any heavy duty clevis on the ends, preverably black to match the carbon fiber tubes.

Why hasn't any one recomended using the solder on connectors available in 4-40 and 2-56 made by Dubro http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD924&P=M very easy to use and you can make good use of all the rod you buy. You can also buy a 4-40 die and just thread the rod.

I have been making my own control rods for years..the best system out there is a small company called RODCHUCK.COM.......they will sell you the dies needed to make both 4-40 threaded rods and 2-56....you use bare werlding sticks..its a excellent means for making control rods for larger planes and well as conventional glow..

recently I did try another product as weight was a major consideration (3D)..awesome rods from central hobbies...the carbon fiber material is as strong as steel and the rod ends are made from titanium and you just instal with J weld epoxy..nothing better for the price.all the f3a pattern guys rely on them.

of course the best connectors are ball link connectors from dubro..

If you buy the rodchuck system I guarantee you'll likely make all your own rods and never go to a hobby shop for 4-400 steel rods again.never!

I cut my rods to length from #2 or #4 stock, and use a 2-56 or 4-40 die to thread both ends. Takes 3 minutes. I also cover the rod with CF, epoxied for additional (compression) strength. Ball links for both ends.

I trust a solid rod implicitly more than a soldered end connection.

To the point of an earlier post, commercially available dies are all right-handed, so I cannot make those nice counter-threaded turnbuckle type rods. But I can make rods any length i need from what i have in the shop. If anyone has a source for LH dies, that would be interesting.

Here is a source for left hand taps. A 4-40 left hand tap for just over $5. [link=http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/qual-tech-440-left-hand-spiral-pointed-tap-high-speed-steel-14116.cfm]Left Hand Taps[/link]
Later!!
Anthony

Thanks for the link!
Misspoke in earlier post - need the die, not the tap. 2-56 is really hard to find.