thebighawg

it is an old hazel sig master kit which has fiberglass push rods included however I'm going to use pull pull on the rudder..I had to cut out all the parts in this kit

thebighawg

Dont know if pushrod is big enough in diameter to insert 2 4-40s...or maybe solder together and just insert one into the pushrod..

thebighawg

Dont know if pushrod is big enough in diameter to insert 2 4-40s...or maybe solder together and just insert one into the pushrod..it is fiberglass..came with kit

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

This what you need to do http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r...00/extra-6.jpg

spaceworm

Use a length to suit of 2-56 all-thread through a hole in the pushrod. Secure with nuts and loctite or CA. Screw on internally threaded ball link balls with nuts and CA. Use the ball link sockets on short pushrods or all thread out to the elevator horns. Use clevises or ball links on the elevator horn ends. I have used this to split rods to flaps. Good luck.

Happy New Year to All.

Sincerely, Richard

bigbird3

[QUOTE=spaceworm;11951508]Use a length to suit of 2-56 all-thread through a hole in the pushrod. Secure with nuts and loctite or CA. Screw on internally threaded ball link balls with nuts and CA. Use the ball link sockets on short pushrods or all thread out to the elevator horns. Use clevises or ball links on the elevator horn ends. I have used this to split rods to flaps. Good luck.

Happy New Year to All.

This will be a bit lengthy without pictures. Sorry.
Interesting problem! Just a thought about split pushrods. I wouldn't dream of stepping on any toes here.....................but.................. I hesitate to use long lengths of all thread or to use them where you might bend them. I'm not sure if it would involve bending them the way Richard is suggesting. It doesn't take much to break them as the threads are at least a quarter way through the rod itself. Maybe not but deep enough to compromise the rod. Ball joints are pretty safe to use though. If I made a 'forked' pushrod with a 'hard wood' dowel, it would be at least 5/16ths inch. Up to .46 size plane, use 2/56 threaded end rods. Larger, sixty size, 3/8ths and 4-40. Cut a piece of a rod for a drill bit to get the hole size right. measure about three inches from the rear end of the rod and drill two holes about an inch apart all the way through. measure from elevator horn to slot in fuse. Put the clevis on each rod with the thread filling half the inner exposed area of clevis for good adjustment. Bend a large 'Z' so the rods will exit half way between each end of the slots in the fuse for proper travel each way. Both rods at this point will have bends in the same places.'
Lay the fuse on it's side and lay the rods together in there respective position over the slots and then put the dowel where you would like it to be when the rods are connected to it. Try not to make the rod length inside the fuse too long as they will flex and 'un-adjust' the eveness of each elevators by shifting side to side. you can eleminate this by putting a Tic Tac Toe structure'#' in the fuse so the rod won't move. Use a sharpy to mark the rods where the holes are and bend 'L's in each one to match the holes in the dowel. Use sowing thread or fishing line that is braided and not monofiliment to wrap the wires on the wooden dowel. At least two times, up and back, once each and then coat with medium CA.
When you install them, bend a slight angle in the wire rods in the un-threaded part so they will easily exit the slots. More than likely they will be too wide apart to get all the way back to the slots so, rubber band them together and get them in position at the slots. Reach in and cut the bands with a #11 and then with a small strait blade screw driver reach in and 'ramp' the end out. You won't have the clevises on at this point. Straiten the wires out and WALA!
There you have it. hope it helped.
bird,.
After the fact! Isn't that usually the case?
I looked at Cub Man's picture on the URL and that is what you will get pretty much if you make one like mine except for wire shape. That is a very good system in the picture but costs and you don't have it right now and we are 'right now' people! Right? So, either way will render a fine push rod system.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You had a particular nasty malware that uses your computer and email account to send bogus emails out to spread itself. I would recommend changing you password on your email account pronto!

thebighawg

Thanks so much everybody I really appreciate all the good information now I have a point to start from Happy New Year everybody

thebighawg

Thanks so much everybody I really appreciate all the good information now I have a point to start from Happy New Year everybody..your detailed explanation was great bird!

thebighawg

Glued on tailfeathers yesterday..yeeha...been working on this thing for about 8 yrs off and on..probably built 10 other planes in the meantime..supersportstster..super hots..big stick..ace seamaster..Christian Eagle ..but now am ready to finish this big bird! Using a saito 180 for power..aileron servos in the wings..mounted rudder and elevator servos today..trimmed hatches I fabbed. To allow access to fuel tank compartment..and servos..should be detailing cockpit soon..kit started out as 2 piece wing with center section made into one wing half..didnt like that so I made 3 pc wing with fixed center section and wing tube joiner..lots of re-engineering has happened on this old school kit..it was one where you cut out all the pcs yourself. I soloed in 1987 on a goldberg falcon 56..I bought the cub kit in 1988 and . It ser on the shelf until I decided to build it about 8 yrs ago..I love this hobby!

thebighawg

Cubman..a question for you..I built a great planes big stick arf a couple of yrs ago . It started just to have something else to fly..I put an old Italian supertigre 60 on it that had seen many flights on a Midwest superhots that i used to fly..flew great..anyway, I thought I could make a front end for the stick that would slip on that looked like an Eindecker...I did it and took loads of pictures of the build...successfully flew the stick with the eindecker mod attached..worked out well..i would love to share the pictures with other guys who have sticks in case they would like to do it too..mine even has a microservo in the torso of the pilot that turns his head when you turn the rudder! I dont really know how to start a thread like that but am interested in trying it. Sorry this is not cub related but you have been posting for so many yrs I thought you might have some advice you wouldn't care to share..

thebighawg

Oh yeah...happy official new yr everybody!! YEEHA!!

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

bighawg,
This is my Sig 1/4 with a Magnum 180. I covered it with Koverall. Acrylic enamel paint. The white is
21st century fabric. You'll like the way it flyes.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

TB

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I was not aware that this was not a cub, my bad, at least I thought it was a cub. Does this mean I loos my brotherhood too?

TB

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Sorry I was talking about Thebighawg and his big stick arf. TB what you had post was fine, please add it back. I'm just trying to keep this form on track....

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Got it, alls good.

TB

spaceworm

This very nice built one looks to be CW. Is the acrylic enamel good for both gas and glow? Have you flown a Sig 1/4 Cub with the full wing and the Mag 180? I have a FW Sig 1/4 Cub with a Zenoah G23 on ECDI. Also have a Saito FA 180 that I plan to run on methanol with ECDI. Thinking of building a CW for the plane and using the FA 180, so I am interested. Thanks.

Happy New Year to You and Yours and All else.

Sincerely, Richard

spaceworm

Pictures speak louder than words. Maybe this explains it better. Good Luck.

Happy New Year to All.

Sincerely, Richard

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Yep that's the CW. I have the 1/4 full wing with a Magnum 91FS on it. I like the way each one flys.
Putt around with the full wing, go full boar with the CW. The acrylic enamel will work with gas or glow. I like
to get it at Oreilly's auto parts. They will mix up small amounts for you. I applied it with a foam brush. You
will like the CW with the 180 in it.

thebighawg

Thanks everyone. I will keep my posts Cubby from now on Cubman.Prob will have to wait until I see you to show kitbash of stick pictures..I'm not savvy with picture posting process yet.Regards

thebighawg

Sounds like using old school Dowell rod might be easier than fiberglass for pushrod pickle fork..not enough room in supplied fiberglass rod for wooden plug on elevator side of assembly..thoughts?

P-40 DRIVER

How lite can you build a Sig clipped wing 1/4 scale cub, can you get it around 12 pounds, also opinions on a Magnum .91 4 stroke for power, assuming a very lite build. Any real experience would be helpful. Thx

thebighawg

My son Daniel built a sig 1/5 scale cub last yr and what I noticed about the kit was that it seemed to be composed of lighter components ..formers and bulkhead.. seemed to be made to save weight...I dont know what the current sig 1/4 scale kit parts look like compared to the 1/5 scale..because my kit was purchased in 1988 and it was the one where you have to cut everything out yourself but..I expect my cub to come out on the heavy side. Don't know if you could make it as light as you said.