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***CUB BROTHERHOOD***

Old 01-07-2015, 05:21 PM
  #3176  
thebighawg
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Dubro...has a fine selection of pull pull cables....thats what I am using
Old 01-07-2015, 05:50 PM
  #3177  
ARUP
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It'll work fine. I buy cables from Proctor and Joe there has similar stock. I've never had any 'stretch' issues even though it is a possibility. Come to think of it I purchased of spool of similar cable from McMaster-Carr.
Old 01-07-2015, 05:59 PM
  #3178  
Cub Man
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I use fishing leader line. I can get it in several sizes all metal twist with a clear coating on it. They come in 50 feet pack.
Old 01-08-2015, 01:47 PM
  #3179  
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I use braided fishing line - works great but you can't have it touch anything or it can fray. If it did touch something, it is so tough that it would probably groove what it was touching anyway.

Keith
Old 01-09-2015, 09:12 PM
  #3180  
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I keep reading references to braided fishing line, but haven't seen any... if its braided monofilament, then its pretty tough stuff... this 49 strand stainless has a clear nylon coating, and is so flexible you can tie a knot into it... the 19 strand you could almost tie a knot, but it resists... I'm going to sacrifice 3 ft of each, and do a stretch test with some weights... will see at what weight stretch occurs and how much... the inflight pressures on a 1/4 scale rudder, can't be that much.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 01-09-2015 at 09:29 PM.
Old 01-10-2015, 08:30 AM
  #3181  
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Kevlar AKA Spiderwire fishing line is the braided stuff. Really tough, but easily abbraided. Its really soft, and really strong and can easily go around the smallest pulleys. It takes a special technique to tie the ends though, or they will come apart.
Old 01-10-2015, 09:41 AM
  #3182  
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I use the braided and put a drop of CA on the knot and it works just fine. I tried the stainless steel and it works okay but I always seem to get a kink somewhere in the length.

Keith
Old 01-10-2015, 11:02 AM
  #3183  
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Hi I am still in the dark ages using 72MHz. Futaba 7C. For sport planes, I usually run the antenna outside the fuse to the rudder tip. For scale, I like to run the antenna inside, typically through a plastic tube out to the rear. Will stainless steel or other metal pull-pull cable for the rudder affect the antenna's signal pickup or cause glitching? Or, how far from the pull-pull cables should the antenna be? Thanks. I guess with 2.4GHz, there is no problem with adjacent metal to the antenna?
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), Zenoah G23ECDI; H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), YS F120; GB Anniv Cub (NIB) Saito FA56?
Old 01-10-2015, 01:45 PM
  #3184  
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Cub vinyl finishing set from Chad Veich.

this set is for my 40% super cub.



Fabric pinkit strips.



Rivets and fasteners.



Hatch covers.



Inspection covers, fuel tank and fill caps.



TB
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Old 01-10-2015, 02:48 PM
  #3185  
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Originally Posted by spaceworm View Post
Hi I am still in the dark ages using 72MHz. Futaba 7C. For sport planes, I usually run the antenna outside the fuse to the rudder tip. For scale, I like to run the antenna inside, typically through a plastic tube out to the rear. Will stainless steel or other metal pull-pull cable for the rudder affect the antenna's signal pickup or cause glitching? Or, how far from the pull-pull cables should the antenna be? Thanks. I guess with 2.4GHz, there is no problem with adjacent metal to the antenna?
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), Zenoah G23ECDI; H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), YS F120; GB Anniv Cub (NIB) Saito FA56?


Just keep the plastic antenna tube as far away from the SS pull pull cable... you would only have an issue if you ran the antenna right next to the SS pull pull cable... when I had 72 mhz in my cub I ran the receiver antenna down a plastic nyrod tube which I had glued inside down the bottom left stringer, all the way to the tail.

2.4 ghz has a very short wave length and has good noise rejection... but it wouldn't matter anyways, because 2.4 radios use broad band frequency hopping (Spread Spectrum)... the hopping rate is so fast it doesn't stay on one particular part of the band long enough for any interference to have much effect on the signal.




Those vinyl pieces look nice Tony... should finish off your cub nicely



John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 01-10-2015 at 02:59 PM.
Old 01-12-2015, 05:26 PM
  #3186  
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Some more info on that Beadalon stainless steel cable.

0.036 49 strand has a 90 lb test.... as a comparison, AFW Surflon Micro Supreme 49 strand stainless steel fishing leader wire 0.036 has a 90 lb test.

0.030 49 strand has a 65 lb test.... as a comparison, AFW Surflon Micro Supreme 49 strand stainless steel fishing leader wire 0.030 has a 65 lb test.

0.024 49 strand has a 40 lb test.... as a comparison, AFW Surflon Micro Supreme 49 strand stainless steel fishing leader wire 0.024 has a 40 lb test.


0.024 19 Strand has a 35 lb test



The beadalon and fishing leader are in the same price bracket; fishing leader is a few bucks more for the same quantity (depends on where you buy it from)... the beadalon 19 strand doesn't go any higher than .024 in diameter, so it's of no interest to me... but the 49 strand .030 and .036 will work for pull pull on most models... it doesn't stretch once the ends are crimped, but if you pull, or man handle the cable too much with out the ends crimped, being made up of 49 strands of micro fine stainless steel they can start to untwist and give the impression its stretching.

So my suspicions were correct, that the "beadalon49" is similar to the 49 strand fishing leader, just the beadalon comes in a variety of decorative colors and metal plating... the 49 strand fishing leader is easier to obtain for the obvious reasons, and it comes in nylon coated, or bare finish.

The .030 and .036 is some tough stuff, even the .024... but I would not go out of may way to hunt the beadalon stuff down again, when the fishing leader is easier to get.


John M,
Old 01-12-2015, 07:24 PM
  #3187  
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Would you also use it for brace cable on a Bipe?
Old 01-12-2015, 08:52 PM
  #3188  
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The larger stuff yes... once the ends are crimped it locks everything in place.. there are 7 bundles, each bundle is made up of 7 fine strands of stainless steel twisted together... then those 7 bundles are again twisted together into one cable with a total of 49 strands.... when the ends are crimped the ends can't fray or unravel, it acts like a piece of rope, even looks just like cable with a clear plastic coating... the 49 strand stuff is claimed to have excellent resistance to abrasion... on an aircraft, the flying wires don't rub together, or shouldn't rub together, so abrasion shouldn't be an issue... the strength is there, 90 lb per wire, times the number of wires used in the flying wire setup, should be more than adequate... the only thing to really focus on is the attachment points and vibration... for instance, if you have the cable going through a metal eye and then crimped back onto itself, kind of like the way we do the pull pull, you just have to make sure there are no sharp edges that could wear through the cable under vibration, but this is all normal precautions we take when using cable for this purposes... usually you have proper ends to terminate the flying wire to their mounting tongues.


John M,

Last edited by John_M_; 01-12-2015 at 08:58 PM.
Old 01-12-2015, 09:53 PM
  #3189  
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Here's a couple pic's of the pull pull on my H9 super cub... I made my own crimp collars from some 1/8 brass tube... I can just fit three passes of the 0.036 through the inside diameter of the tube... the crimp collars are just under 1/4" of an inch long, and once crimped, I put a drop of CA... when I do my J3, they will be a bit smaller.






John M,
Old 01-13-2015, 09:55 AM
  #3190  
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Can you give us a little more info on the Cub vinyl finishing set from Chad Veich.

Originally Posted by TonyBuilder View Post
Cub vinyl finishing set from Chad Veich.

this set is for my 40% super cub.



Fabric pinkit strips.



Rivets and fasteners.



Hatch covers.



Inspection covers, fuel tank and fill caps.



TB
Old 01-13-2015, 11:25 AM
  #3191  
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Originally Posted by John_M_ View Post
Here's a couple pic's of the pull pull on my H9 super cub... I made my own crimp collars from some 1/8 brass tube... I can just fit three passes of the 0.036 through the inside diameter of the tube... the crimp collars are just under 1/4" of an inch long, and once crimped, I put a drop of CA... when I do my J3, they will be a bit smaller.

John M,
Very nice, as usual! Do you use the crimping pliers suggested by the fishing braid supplier, or? I do likewise, however, I like to use copper tube as it softer and less likely to crack from the crimping action. (I also use copper for fuel tank installs, for the same reason, and that it does not have zinc that may react with nitro, et al).

Sincerely, Richard
Old 01-13-2015, 11:30 AM
  #3192  
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Cub man, not much more I can say then what I posted, vinyl stitching, covers, rivets, and fasteners plus the fuel fill caps. I am experimenting with vinyl detailing for none painted finishes, don't know how it will all work.

Chad is awsome he will make whatever you throw at him.

TB

Last edited by TonyBuilder; 01-13-2015 at 11:32 AM.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:48 AM
  #3193  
Cub Man
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Let us know how it works out.
Old 01-13-2015, 01:18 PM
  #3194  
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the only info I can dig up is a email address.
[email protected]
Old 01-13-2015, 04:18 PM
  #3195  
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Chad Veich website

http://www.cwvmodels.com/



TB
Old 01-13-2015, 05:37 PM
  #3196  
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Originally Posted by spaceworm View Post
Very nice, as usual! Do you use the crimping pliers suggested by the fishing braid supplier, or? I do likewise, however, I like to use copper tube as it softer and less likely to crack from the crimping action. (I also use copper for fuel tank installs, for the same reason, and that it does not have zinc that may react with nitro, et al).

Sincerely, Richard

That is soft brass tubing left over from a fuel tank... tank kits come with soft easy to bend tubing, its not the tempered brass tubing.

I use my automotive crimp tool used for crimping insulated electrical terminal ends... made by "blue point".. it has a half moon cradle, with a smaller opposing half moon crimp button... the tool is about 3/16 thick... I crimp the entire length of the crimp collar, which leaves a small channel in the collar to allow the loop back piece of the pull pull cable to nestle in.. the CA wicks into the channel as well... works very well... and the nice thing about those crimp pliers, you can't over crimp the collars.


John M,
Old 01-14-2015, 05:01 AM
  #3197  
thebighawg
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Rudder and elev servos and throttle servo in..fairleads for pull pull elev made and installed..inlet slot under tailwheel mount for rear stab bottom flying wire..working on cabin walls now..time to fab throttle and trim crank levers and housings..whew! My kit was old school and said to construct left wing panel andcenter section in one pc..nope. made 3 pc wing instead with wing tube. Center section will be epoxied on with dowels once cabin is finished.Cheated and used hangar nine cub wing struts.Fit well with very little rerigging. Thanks for the pics of your control stick rigging Bird. Would love to post pics but can't figure out how to post them. No internet on pc ..only my android phone. Is 21st century paint compatible with pactra sand and seal? Going to paint cabin posts and walls..interior. Guess I'll find out soon.Have a good day guys.
Old 01-14-2015, 08:24 AM
  #3198  
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I have a couple of instrument panels on order with Chad. I have seen his work and the price is reasonable. The one thing is if you think you will need more than one of the same item order them together. He has to charge for the setup work because its labor intensive but the second, third, etc, duplicate items are a lot cheaper. He wants to make a living NOT a killing. I like that, I want a guy who does great work at a resonable price to stay in business and be there when I need them again (like my LHS) but I don't like getting ripped off. So I support guys like Chad and Gary over at Decal-it along with my LHS. I didn't mention the obvious but Cub Man fits into this mold too!

Mike

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 01-14-2015 at 08:27 AM.
Old 01-14-2015, 09:28 AM
  #3199  
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On the crimping of the brass swage fittings, most automotive and electrical crimpers "crimp" in line with the wire. I prefer to cross crimp, I took a 4" wire cutter and ground a flat edge on the cutting edge, this will cross crimp without fear of cutting.
Old 01-14-2015, 12:02 PM
  #3200  
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That's a good Idea too Ace... that will definitely lock the cable into the ferrule... I have a pair of SubD pin crimp tools that crimp full circle with 8 small points, or splines; fully adjustable for use with molex pins... would work great for crimping pull pull ferrules, but only one end, because the hole isn't big enough in the tool to pass the crimped loop and fitting through for the opposite end... would be nice if they made full circle crimp dies that small, like they use for aircraft and boat rigging; you wouldn't need the loop back with a full circle crimp.


John M,

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