Cub Flyer Fresno

[QUOTE=spaceworm;11722253 FWIW. But, I have a question: How do you all fit the flush fitted side windows as per full scale on your Cubs?

Thanks for hints on the windows fitting.

Richard/Cub Brotherhood # 187, SIG 1/4 Cub, GB Anniversary Cub[/QUOTE]

Richard, I used 1/64 ply over the window openings with no more than a 1/16" lip to support the plastic windows. Came out great on mine. I'll see if I can dig up some photos if you want them.

Take care,
David

spaceworm

Hi David,

Thanks for the tip; I would like to see pics of your technique. I have pics of FS Cubs, but could not see a way to duplicate the look.

Thanks again.

Sincerely. Richard/CUB BH #187

Cub Flyer Fresno

Well, rats! I guess I didn't get a good shot of that. But here is a photos of my struts. In the background you can see the sheet of ply over the windows. The way I did it was to cut the sheet of ply, place it over the windows and trace them on the ply. I then carefully cut out the windows. To attach the ply I used a thin layer of Titebond on both the ply and the fuse, let it dry, then positioned the ply and ironed it down. I love that technique! Makes it fairly easy.

loopdeeloop

My Feedback: (4)

Please add "Loopdeeloop" to the list. My 105 inch Sig Cub is still in the box waiting for a TF P-47 to clear the board.

John_M_

Excellent tip Cub Flyer Fresno... the way we did it first time round was to cut the clear plastic to fit inside the window frames; and then used painters tape to hold them in place flush with the outside fuse... then applied a small bead of RC-56 canopy glue along the edges inside the window frame to hold the clear plastic in place... it worked out ok, but it was a tedious process... I like your way much better!!

BTW, nice job on your jury struts... wish I our LHS carried the brass streamlined tube... what size streamline tubing did you use for your jury struts??.... the full sized cub's jury struts are 1.5 inches wide, so using 3/8 inch wide SL tube would be scale for a 1/4 cub, but its very difficult to work with that size SL tube and get the strength and reliability, just not enough material around the fasteners to be structurally sound... we ended up putting the hanger 9 wing struts on, and their jury struts are like 1/2 scale, way too big... so we ended up compromising and used 1/2 inch wide K&S aluminum streamline tubing for the jury struts, with a 3/8 inch brass tube inside to take the loads... the 3/8 brass tube was deformed into an oval and flatten on each end to fit inside the 1/2 inch aluminum SL tube... the K&S aluminum was too soft to be structural.

John M,

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I love Top Flite kits! The problem is not the kit itself but the quality of the build's technique. Bless him, but the previous owner was very elderly (with all the usual age related maladies) and he really didn't have the ability/experience to make this kit his first build. Now in his defense he bought all first class stuff! He got the wing mostly built as well as a lot of the fuselage but he got to the point he just couldn't physically continue. His eyesight got to the point he wasn't going to be able to fly it. So he had a friend start trying to liquidate everything he bought. I was approached by the friend 18 months later and made the trade.

As for the airplane itself, some of the wing sheeting will need to be redone, the flaps were not built correctly and may need to be replaced. He heavily glued a scrap piece of liteply to the side of the fuselage, drill a hole and installed the filler value to charge the retracts. The location of the retract valve was located in a place without room for the servo to operate it.
This is a partial list of problems, I haven't checked to see if the wings and fuselage are straight. I think once I get to the point I get my my current projects done I'll take another look at it. If the wings aren't twisted and the fuselage is straight then I think it would be worth reworking.

Cub Flyer Fresno

John,
The jury struts were not SL, I flattened them out by placing either a drill bit or music wire inside and clamping it down in a vice. I don't recall right off hand what size I used, I do remember using two different sizes though since the cross member is a smaller diameter. I'll try to remember to check the diameter when I get home tonight.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Struts look great! Great idea too! Thank you for sharing.

John_M_

Ok, well that's what we did with the inner brass tube... but I didn't think I could keep a consistent profile along the length of brass tubing to make the jury struts streamline from a round tubing... but I must say, yours came out quite well in deed... you had me fooled thinking those were extruded !!

Here's a couple images... forgive the ratty looking covering, we left the covering on to help protect the wood while we rework the various areas... I was tinkering around with the pitot protector; made from an old Iomega zip disk dust cover (very thin stainless steel)... I used 12 gauge electrical copper wire for the pitot... the pitot protector actually functions and is as scale as my fingers will allow, lol... need to find a better looking screw though...John M,

acdii

OK I see, sounds like me, I have a friend in the same situation and acquired a lot of his projects, but they were all ARF, so I just had to rework all the controls. Good Luck with it, the flaps are probably the worst part of the build.

Tuesday nights are usually my Cub build night, but my friend had more important plans. I may clear my bench of the Corsair tonight and work on a Clipped wing for my Cub. The full wings are at the Barn with the rest of the plane, but my second wing kit is at home with the clipped plan sheet.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Yeah, the jury struts weren't really stream lined so much as just oval-ized. From the Cub I referenced they were that way. Plus the guy who originally gave me the idea did his the same way. That would be Acerc. You want some good ideas, there's a source for ya!

John_M_

Yeah, Cub Man's another good source as well... there are so many different variations on the full sized cubs out there... I've been picking out the scale elements that I like, and trying to implement them into my project... I'm not really trying to recreate any one particular full sized cub, just a mish mash of ideas I've seen from various images... believe me, I've seen a lot of Acerc, as well as your build threads... they are very informative and have given me a lot of motivation to add more scale bits to my cub... you guys do some really nice work.


John M,

ARUP

Get nitrate dope thinned 50% and a fuzzy roller for application. Hold the part overhead so the dope doesn't pool. Use a dry roller to recover any excess. I usually 'work' my roller until dry then 'pick up' dope from adjoining areas. This is a Nigel Tarvin tip of Tarvin's Model Products. 3-4 coats should seal (not fill) the weave. You can put nitrate on pretty quick one coat after another if its warm outside. After a day or so then sand lightly then spray base coat. I use white or silver. Don't use silver if you are going to paint a light color or 'red' color. After a day or so spray your color. I mix colors (and base coat) to 50% with thinners. It will have the consistency of milk. I use a Badger touch-up gun and my compressor is at ~30 40lbs.

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

Anyone know where to get pinking shears that equate to roughly 1/5 or even 1/6 scale? Thanks guys!

stevegauth30

Joann fabric? AC Moore? Not sure on the scale of them, but I've seen them.

Jim Hargett

My Feedback: (1)

Can I join the Cub Brotherhood? I'm new to the hobby, but nuts
about Cubs. Thanks.
jim

Mako17

A little off topic but the state of Alabama is officially closed today due to ICE. So no work, I guess I can work on my CUB. Yippee

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I would like to save the Corsair if possible it is a cool airplane. I also have a partially built House of Balsa T6 and a partially built Jemco P-51. These were given to me by a friend that was liquidating g the collections of two old modellers who moved into assisted living and couldn't take them with them. He didn't want to trash them he felt I would at some point finish and fly them. The previous owners are suffering from dementia and/or alzheimer's so neither remember their airplane. Still I intend to hold on to them and get them finished just to honor the men they were. I have already bought a couple of used OS "FP" engines in the correct sizes to power them. The builds are old school with bell cranks for the ailerons (I may change this) and one has an old 2 litter soda bottle bottom as a cowling but it would be cool to get them going. Neither kit is waving at scale.

John_M_

That's going to be a hard one to find.... for 1/5 scale you'll need at least 30 pinks per inch... dressmaking pinking scissors you find at the fabric stores have about 6-8 pinks per inch... they make a rotary cutting blade pinking tool, as well as decorative cutting scissors with various patterns, but still not close to 1/5- 1/6 scale... unless you make something yourself, or have something custom made.

Go over to this site and read his explanation on scale pinking http://www.pink-it.net/new_pink-it_2012_003.htm... I just ended up buying his rib and perimeter pinking tape.

John M

acerc

Pinking shears at 1/5 or 1/6 scale would be so small you would be just as well to use straight.

3136

Thanks for signing me up Cubman, and thanks to Spaceworm,Acdii and Arup for your advice

darren4

GP 40 J3 cub, fiberglass Specialties super cub cowling, 61" clipped wing, OS AX 55 engine, balanced perfect with this engine. Very fast which I like. Darren from Cold Wisconsin.....

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Good job there Darren. I've got a 55AX that I'm gonna put in a Goldberg Cub and make it a Super Cub. That's a lot of motor for that plane though.
I would rather have something like a 46. I've got a neice in WI. This time of year there is good kit building weather in that part of the country.

deanz406

My Feedback: (28)

Hi CUB Man - PLEASE add me to the brotherhood !! This is a great idea u started on probably the best known plane in aviation history.
Well, my Cub would probably be classified an antique by today's standards of RC airplanes, since many have seen demise over the years. This plane was a 1/4 scale scratch built Cub from Sid Morgan plans in 1976, by a fellow club member. He built it with only 3 channels- rudder, elevator, motor for the purpose of a fun beater, and a trainer for the newbie flyers who wanted to learn to fly. Over the years it went through quite a few members, and was wrecked as many times over. I saw a member flying it in 1983, all bent, twisted, patched, and just fell in love with it, as it was a true orphan. I asked the fellow if he would sell it, and I bought it for a few dollars as bare bones. Over that winter I stripped it, and there was more patched lumber than original wood in it. Although it had a lot of battle wounds(from the trees), it was a pretty strongly built plane. I redid the deck stringers, replaced the fuel soaked firewall, installed a 1/4 " plywood plate for the new landing gear, and installed an aluminum plate to attach struts to. It was never equipped with any struts. I wanted at least a "stand off scale" look.
The wing was pretty well twisted, and a lot of patched ribs, so I replaced all the bad ones, cut the wing in half, and cut off both wingtips. I decided to add ailerons, so I scaled down the size, and cut them out. Back then we only used 1 servo in the center of the wing, with the bellcrank system for aileron linkage. It always worked well for me. I remade new wingtips, and replaced the old ones, and added a little washout to them. I re- epoxied the wing halves together with about 2 1/2* of dihedral. I added hardwood blocks for strut attachment, and re-sheeted the leading edge with new balsa. After sanding and wood prep, I decided to recover.
Since I always saw yellow cubs, I wanted something different, so I opted for a Red Cub. I recovered it, cut out the trim and numbers, and made new landing gear from tempered aluminum, and installed wheel pants. I removed all the old 27MHZ gear, and installed a new 72MHZ unit and servos. I installed a HB61PDP Blitz motor in it, and the maiden flight was a thing to behold. It only needed a click of aileron, and a click of rudder, and it flew perfectly. I just took these pics last month, and YES, that's the original 30 yr old red Monocote still on it, and the same HB 61 motor in it. Here are a few pics-- Thanks for a great thread-- Dean

Cub Man

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