jzrf6c

I don't see any update to this thread for months. What's happening guys?

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Anthony,

Great job on your Dr1. I scratched built a 1/5 scale a few years ago that looks a little more scale,but the darn thing won't land! It seems to always grab the wing tip and crashes. I plan on building a 1/4 scale, they seem to fly better. I want to talk with BUSA about their 1/3 scale because the nose appears to be more scale in your pictures. Good Luck with your Dr1 !

Thanks,

Ray

chris1971

I just bought a used DR1 and am doing some mods to it so I need some info on CG for it. Can anybody tell me the CG range?

Thanks,
Chris

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Chris,

Great flying! It is amazing how good a plane can fly that you didn't build (LOL)! We always laugh at good flyers in our club and how nervous they can get on their first flight! What engine are you using in your plane? Is that a Balsa USA?

Ray

AMA 74894

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Chris, ASSUMING we're talking balsa USA 1/4 scale DR1...
directly from Dave Lewis CG on the Balsa USA 1/4 scale Fokker Triplane:

The CG should be 3-5/8” back from the leading edge of the top wing. Start with it at 3-5/8” I don’t care how much weight you have to add to get it there, just get it there.

Then after you’ve flown it and gotten comfortable with it you might want to move it back a little (not to 5”) but a little.

Dave Lewis
Balsa USA

chris1971

Yes it is a balsa USA kit and that was the first flight with the new radio system so i was having to trim it and thats why it was so jumpy. I love the way it flies. It is so much better than the Great Planes arf I used to have! Thank you for the cg info. It is powered by a Zenoah G-26.

leadgofer

My Feedback: (8)

Had to wait 3 weeks but I finally got to maiden my new DR1. Flew like a dream, almost hands off! US 41 for power.

Mongo40

I know this is an old thread but I picked up one of these partially built last weekend an the guy had some extras with it, these controls for instance, I know what they are but any ideal how you would go about attaching them to ailerons, elevator an rudder? Anyone seen these before? Thanks

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Those control horns are similar to the ones that I make. I prefer to "notch" the leading edge of horn to fit into the rudder/elevator leading edge. Also, the center section where there is an extension I drill small holes to allow epoxy to seep through. The last thing is to box in the horn center section with either hard wood or hard balsa (usually the horn is installed onto a rib and the "box" is completed by epoxying the wood on the open side of the horn.

Hope this helps,
Ray

Mongo40

Thanks Ray, helps allot!
chris

foodstick

Mongo.. start a thread with pics on your plane and build.. Balsa USA stuff has been slow on here lately

Mongo40

When I actually start on it I will right now just trying to get everything together that I need to finish it so I'm not sitting in the middle of something waiting on the mail.
Quick question, obviously I don't want to use monokote on this what do you recommend covering it with??? I've watched some videos using Polyspan an Sig Stix it, looks pretty simple to do, then there is Coverite??? would have to order it from Power Hobbies an not sure how many rolls I'd need, also I want to paint it so would just be using white to cover it, not sure if you can paint on coverite, then I've seen Solortex mentioned but the only place I can find it is BUSA's site, would a 5m role cover it? Don't want to get half way covered then have to order more. Thanks

jeffo

My Feedback: (68)

Use solartex,the best stuff out there,the instr. manual has the amount of rolls you'll need.jeff

jdann

Thanks all who posted here. You have helped me get this one in the air - first flight last week after a three month build. Great flyer!
cheers

jdann

Just one more

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

Jdann, What did you cover your Dr 1 with and also what are you using for power? The pictures look great. I am building the 1/4 scale, took break to get my other planes ready for the flying season.

Leadgofer, did you do a construction thread? I would like to know how you fit a US 41 on it? It look great, I saw the youtube video of you flying it, man it is fast.

Thanks
Rich

jdann

Good old Monokote - real (true) red
Zenoah 26 - perfect engine for this plane - designed to fit on that firewall - excellent power to weight ratio.
A real attention grabber at the field.
can't beat a bright red and white "Red Baron" - kids love it.

jdann

Bcool831

Does this dr1 need a 23-30 cc gas engine? I have a new Evolution 20gx2 and was wondering if it would be enough power or should I go ahead and get the Evolution 33gx? Thanks

foodstick

This is one of those planes that might not hurt to have a slightly heavier /bigger motor than you need to help on balance. It all depends on how light you keep the tail... Just make sure your elevators are tied togethr securely if you use 1 servo. A couple guys in my club almost lost an elevator to flutter because they didn't use a strong enough dowl.. or wire between them.

Bcool831

awesome info foodstick thanks

Bcool831

Guys that have built this beauty, what did you use? Titebond, CA or other and why please.

leadgofer

My Feedback: (8)

Mine has an "OLD" US 41 with a spring starter. Needed the extra weight for balance. Fits fine. I fly around at half throttle most of the time.

foodstick

Bcool, Most guys use CA and epoxy... Epoxy is best in areas that will be attached to hard woods and plywoods (landing gear,firewalls). Its also best to use a slow epoxy when possible, Scuff up the ply or hardwood in the gluing area with a course sandpaper, or an exacto knife. This allows the epoxy to seep in and bite even better.

Some of us still use slow aliphatic/white glues as well. Gorilla glue FOR WOOD works well, and some of the newer titebond glues are used. I have been using titebond 2, but some people say the newer one is better...When building OLD SCHOOL with white glues you will be doing a lot more pinning clamping, and waiting (for glue to dry) But with multiple building boards you can keep busy !

Cub Flyer Fresno

I don't know about anyone else, but for epoxy I've switched to Silver Tip GelMagic at least for critical areas like firewalls, wing mounting areas, etc.. Great stuff!