I hope Im not opening a can of worms here but I have read many posts on using windex for applying monkote over monokote.
I have read that it only worksif you apply heat, andI have readthat it works without heat.
I thought I would give it a try.
Here is what Idid.
I had part of a monokote covered wing from a plane that I previously crashed.
The wing was covered with red monokote.
Icleaned the part of the wing to be covered with alcohole.
I cut a 1" square piece of white monkote.
I sprayed the wing with blue windex with Omonia D and placed the white monokote on the wing.
I squeeged the excess windex from under the white monokote and wiped it down with a paper towel.
After letting the wing sit for 48 hours, I was easily able to peel up the white piece of monkote.
yes I did peal off the plastic backing before applying the monokote.
I am getting the impression that this is just a myth.
Did Ido something wrong?
Can anyone share thier results?

Thanks

I would guess a few things. Mono's glue is activated by the AMMONIA in the windex, if you have some new type of windex or glass cleaner with something else in it then it won't work. It works with Mono, NOT Ultracote so if you have your coverings confused it won't work. If you have any oil on the covering, it won't work. It can be used to put mono trim over Ultra base but again, it doesn't work at all with Ultra! I have a bottle of ammonia in my shop and I just mix up a strong batch of ammonia, water and alcohol, the blue dye does nothing.

It is not a myth. I have just completed a plane and I used Mono over Ultra and let it set overnite...It stuck fine.....I think you could peel it if you tried hard enough but it is not comming off in the wind and it dosent come off whenI clean my plane...I dont use windex to clean my plane just in case ... I use a cleaner that is ammonia free... My Mono over lay comes to a very fine points too with no signs of letting go.... It will not work the other was around though...Ultra wont stick to mono using windex with Ammonia</p>

I have done several planes using the windex method. I have a 1/4 scale clipped wing cub with a gas engine that I have flown for a couple of years with the windex method. After I apply the trim and when it dries, I then go over the edges with a Q-tip dipped in Acetone. you can't peal it off.

I have used the windex method for years with Monokote . I spray on the windex and apply the trim , squeegeed out the excess and allow to set for at least 48 hours . I then very slowly and gently go over the trim with a socked sealing iron on low to set the adhesive( only warm enough to seal but not shrink). I then go around the edges with trim solvent to be sure the edges are sealed

Hi,
Iknow for a fact that I was using monokote.
The windex I used said orginal formula with Omonia D on the label.
I did not go over it with an iron. Do you have to go over it with an iron after letting it sit?
Is there another kind of windex I should have used?

This method works because the adhesive used on MonoKote will eventually stick without heat. If you've ever had old scraps you saved where you rolled them up without the backing, you'll find them well-adhered to each other. The trick is that the material must be in good contact with the surface below. You don't need to use Windex (tm) or any other special product. Soapy water works just as well.

You float the trim piece into position using the liquid and then squeegee out all of the moisture. The MonoKote will stay on because there's now no air between the pieces. Eventually, the residual moisture will come out and the adhesive will begin to work. If you use heat, be very careful, because the material will shrink, and you may get a ruined job. Also, any moisture left will turn to steam and make bubbles in the trim. Using a small amount of trim solvent after about a week or two will seal the edges and give you a very long-lasting trim job.

I use just plain old Windex . It is mostly to get any air bubbles out when you squegee but does provide some adhesive property to monokote . It is not required to iron it out after, but in my opinion it does make it stick better . I do recommend to seal the edges with solvent either way.

I use windex to apply the second and third layer's. Then I go around the perimeter with monocoat trim solvent. Work's real well.

I have never finished a plane so I have to ask .How long do you wait after you squeegee the windex off before you apply the trim solvent? How do you apply the solvent, do you lift the edge of the trim or apply right on top?

Bill, some will probably argue the difference, but I don't wait. Once I have squeegee it out I wipe it down and then add the trim solvent. One can use the trim solvent to apply these layer's, according to their instruction's, so why wait. And I apply the solvent with a Q-tip to the perimeter, I do not lift the edges.</p>

Here's a nice tutorial. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._1/key_/tm.htm

That link takes me to a thread entitled " Glow Engine Woes". I didn't read every post in that thread, but is this correct?

My bad. It has been corrected. Try it again.

I've tried the Windex method but had marginal results. I've been using MonoKote for about 35 years now and I guess I've figured out how to do things with an iron. I've found that I have better results ironing than I did with Windex. Like you, I found that I could peel the Windex applied pieces if I really tried. I expect my planes to last for years so I don't want the trim coming off in a year or two. And honestly, I can get better results with an iron.

I know folks who swear by Windex and their planes look fine. But none of them have held up to the estimated 1400 flights I've put on my Epsilon in 4 years of flying and still haven't had a single seam lift. Besides, my Epsilon looks Awesome! Well, actually at the moment it's undergoing a partial recovering, this old MonoKote has seen so much sun that it's brittle and hard to patch. Plus, after better than 4 years of daily flying, the plane was in need of a few repairs.

So my best advice is to find a technique that works for you. All ironed does work but can take years to develop the technique. Windex works too and is probably easier, even if it's not my choice. But do listen to the folks who advise sealing the edges after Windex, be it iron, acetone or MonoKote Trim Solvent. That may have been my error with the Windex, That's the weak spot. If the edges are sealed it's not likely to peel up.

Dave

I just did a search on the Windex site and couldn't find "Omonia D" anywhere.

I think you are right, I have seen pieces of monocote adhere themselves to other piece. I will try this. But what I have in mind is placing thee model in the sun for a couple of hours, that will do the trick w/o using the iron...

Gerry

I can't say that I have 1400 flights on my cub, but I have 4 years on it and the trim looks like the day I put it on.  I used the Windex method.

http://www.windex.com/en-US/Products...s-cleaner.aspx

They have advertised it as "Windex, with Ammona D" for as many years as I can remember.

I have been using the Windex method for years. I always heat seal the trim into place after 24 hrs. Lately I have gone to using Ultracote for the base color and Monokote for trim colors. Mon does not stick to Ulta as well but the heat takes care of that. I would prefer to use all Mono but after the change I have found it impossible to work with and get the high quality results I was able to get 10 years ago.

Here ya go.http://www.windex.com/en-US/Products...s-cleaner.aspx