12' Laser-cut Telemaster Kit Build
#101
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Gary, could you tell me about the sky divers- I looked into it a while back but didn't see any suitable options. My thought was to convince the builder of this here airplane- a member of my club and good guy- to provide a ride for one which I'd supply and control. Might as well use this large airsraft for something useful, right? I haven't broached the subject with him as yet but here it is,,,
Tom
Tom
I think we might be able to arrange something for the skydivers. Might be fun! The bomb bay is divided lengthwise down the middle (so you can have a two-stage drop), so I don't know if it will fit the skydiver. The bomb bay is easily removable so we can make an "alternate" carrying device to fit in the space. Email me and we'll set something up.
Everyone: Thanks for the notes on engine choice. I've heard everything from a 26cc to a DLE 111, so that leaves the field wide open. I'm making the cowl (see previous posts) to fit a DLE 55 as that's what I have handy. I will post some pics of the cowl later tonight.
Cheers!
Andrew
#102
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Finally - here is the post I promised a couple of days ago about the cowling. Actually I have quite a bit of work done as you will see in the next several posts.
This post deals with the basic assembly of the cowl:
- After modeling in SolidWorks, part drawings were created and the parts traced onto 1/8" birch ply. The parts were then hand-cut on a jig-saw with an old blade - here's where the precision starts to go out of the process! (Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe).
- Nevertheless, after sanding out all the bumps I had the 12 parts I needed to assemble the cowling frame. Cross-pieces were cut from 1/8" basswood. I chose to split the cowling on the thrust line so I could get it off without removing the prop. The first few pictures show the lower half of the cowl.
- The outside profiles were built over the plans and then joined with the center profiles.
- Pieces of balsa reinforcing were added to the framework to stiffen it up and ensure that the spacing was correct.
- The last few pics show the two halves joined together temporarily to check alignment.
Next up - cowling continued!
This post deals with the basic assembly of the cowl:
- After modeling in SolidWorks, part drawings were created and the parts traced onto 1/8" birch ply. The parts were then hand-cut on a jig-saw with an old blade - here's where the precision starts to go out of the process! (Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe).
- Nevertheless, after sanding out all the bumps I had the 12 parts I needed to assemble the cowling frame. Cross-pieces were cut from 1/8" basswood. I chose to split the cowling on the thrust line so I could get it off without removing the prop. The first few pictures show the lower half of the cowl.
- The outside profiles were built over the plans and then joined with the center profiles.
- Pieces of balsa reinforcing were added to the framework to stiffen it up and ensure that the spacing was correct.
- The last few pics show the two halves joined together temporarily to check alignment.
Next up - cowling continued!
#104
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Cowl continued:
- In order to mount the cowl I had to cut the remainder of the fuselage sides off and sand flush.
- As the plane is generally tail-heavy I wanted to move the engine as far forward as possible. This meant that the standoffs that came with the engine had to be replaced as they were not long enough. I constructed a motor box from 1/4" ply and 3/4" hardwood triangle stock. It looks a little shot up in the pictures as I had to level the top and bottom faces of with my full-size table saw, which caused some splinters.
- I provided bolt holes to mount the motor box to the fuselage using the mounting holes from the DLE85
- The DLE55 slots into the motor box from the bottom and is secured with 4 x 10-32 bolts.
- There is about 3/8" between the muffler and the firewall. The open hole is for the spark plug wire.
I will likely epoxy the motor box to the firewall as I feel that I am now 100% committed to the DLE55.
Next up - test fitting the cowl!
- In order to mount the cowl I had to cut the remainder of the fuselage sides off and sand flush.
- As the plane is generally tail-heavy I wanted to move the engine as far forward as possible. This meant that the standoffs that came with the engine had to be replaced as they were not long enough. I constructed a motor box from 1/4" ply and 3/4" hardwood triangle stock. It looks a little shot up in the pictures as I had to level the top and bottom faces of with my full-size table saw, which caused some splinters.
- I provided bolt holes to mount the motor box to the fuselage using the mounting holes from the DLE85
- The DLE55 slots into the motor box from the bottom and is secured with 4 x 10-32 bolts.
- There is about 3/8" between the muffler and the firewall. The open hole is for the spark plug wire.
I will likely epoxy the motor box to the firewall as I feel that I am now 100% committed to the DLE55.
Next up - test fitting the cowl!
#105
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Cowl continued:
This series of photos shows the partially completed top cowl fitted to the airframe followed by both top and bottom halves, and then finally with the prop just stuck on the motor.
A portion of the bottom half cowl will have to be cut away to make room for the muffler.
The cowl will be sheeted in 1/8" balsa except for the front round part behind the spinner which will have 1/16" sheeting because of the curvature.
I'll probably use screws to mount the bottom half of the cowl, and magnets to hold the top half on. This way I can get at the needles on the carb without having to unscrew the top half.
Next up - the fully sheeted cowl...
This series of photos shows the partially completed top cowl fitted to the airframe followed by both top and bottom halves, and then finally with the prop just stuck on the motor.
A portion of the bottom half cowl will have to be cut away to make room for the muffler.
The cowl will be sheeted in 1/8" balsa except for the front round part behind the spinner which will have 1/16" sheeting because of the curvature.
I'll probably use screws to mount the bottom half of the cowl, and magnets to hold the top half on. This way I can get at the needles on the carb without having to unscrew the top half.
Next up - the fully sheeted cowl...
#108
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Hey Andrew,
I haven't been able to get on here to play due to my computer letting the MAGIC smoke out of 8 capacitors despite of having surge 'protectors' on it...It's in the computer hospital for surgery and here I am on a borrowed computer. You are doing a SUPER quality build on here and I really enjoy watching a master craftsman at work.... You NEED to come here to compensate for MY building on this GREAT plane...LOL
TTYL,
Bruce
I haven't been able to get on here to play due to my computer letting the MAGIC smoke out of 8 capacitors despite of having surge 'protectors' on it...It's in the computer hospital for surgery and here I am on a borrowed computer. You are doing a SUPER quality build on here and I really enjoy watching a master craftsman at work.... You NEED to come here to compensate for MY building on this GREAT plane...LOL
TTYL,
Bruce
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Cowling continued:
Finally another post and the last before I start covering. Building the cowl sounded like a good idea at first - "No worries, a couple of evenings and it will be done!". Well, probably 40 hours work and a month later and here we are. In the photos for this post the cowl is pretty much complete - just needs a final sanding. The engine is not shown in these photos.
The bottom half of the cowl is held to the motor box and firewall with three screws. The top half is held on with 4 magnet pairs, which enables me to take the cowl off for needle adjustment, etc. In the first few photos you can see the ignition lead screwed to the firewall. Some of the pics a little later on show the choke and throttle servos mounted. The square cutout is for the tach, along with the radio switch, ignition switch and ignition "On" light. Pictures with the top half off reveal the magnets that hold the top half to the airframe. The magnets are quite strong...
Next up - the cowl with the engine installed.
Finally another post and the last before I start covering. Building the cowl sounded like a good idea at first - "No worries, a couple of evenings and it will be done!". Well, probably 40 hours work and a month later and here we are. In the photos for this post the cowl is pretty much complete - just needs a final sanding. The engine is not shown in these photos.
The bottom half of the cowl is held to the motor box and firewall with three screws. The top half is held on with 4 magnet pairs, which enables me to take the cowl off for needle adjustment, etc. In the first few photos you can see the ignition lead screwed to the firewall. Some of the pics a little later on show the choke and throttle servos mounted. The square cutout is for the tach, along with the radio switch, ignition switch and ignition "On" light. Pictures with the top half off reveal the magnets that hold the top half to the airframe. The magnets are quite strong...
Next up - the cowl with the engine installed.
#110
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Cowl continued:
The photos in this post show the cowl with the engine installed. I made sure there was lots of room around the engine for cooling. Note that the engine is 1.25" forward of where it would have been with the stand-offs alone. Hopefully this will enable the plane to balance without any ballast. I'll have to cover the plane and install the servos, etc. before trying to balance. I can move the Smart-Fly power controller and batteries around if necessary.
There will probably be a bit of a break before the next post. I have to clean the workshop in preparation for covering. Wings will be first, followed by the fuselage and tail. Lots of work!
.
The photos in this post show the cowl with the engine installed. I made sure there was lots of room around the engine for cooling. Note that the engine is 1.25" forward of where it would have been with the stand-offs alone. Hopefully this will enable the plane to balance without any ballast. I'll have to cover the plane and install the servos, etc. before trying to balance. I can move the Smart-Fly power controller and batteries around if necessary.
There will probably be a bit of a break before the next post. I have to clean the workshop in preparation for covering. Wings will be first, followed by the fuselage and tail. Lots of work!
.