FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Barry, it sounds like you are making great progress!

Bcool831

i am making great progress. Won’t get much done unfortunately this weekend as I work fri-mon but I love having 3 days off every week.
Barry

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I had job once where I worked 10 hour days, the last 2 hours were long but I loved a 3 day weekend too.

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

Barry, CA hinges don't hold up very long, I use the large Dubro pinned hinges. Before covering the surfaces. Use 30 min. epoxy the attach them, but first dip the hinge pinned together in oil, just the hinge area. Then install the in both surfaces. When the epoxy has set up remove the pin then cover the surfaces. I make a pin from a T-pin to make an L shape pin for easy removal. This works great if you ever have to remover a control surface for repairs.

Barry you may want to be a member of the Balsa USA Brotherhood. Check it out in the Kit section of this site. There is almost 150 members. They are great source of help and advice. Also, we would like to see some pictures of your work.
Fair Winds & Happy Flyin'
Rich

Bcool831

Rich, thanks all great points and I will check that forum out.
Barry

foodstick

One more point, add balsa gussets in places that need them.. Whether the plans say to or not. Put them in corners of the elevator,ailerons.. anywhere that will want to twist or warp when covered..

As to oiling the hinge pins before gluing... I never enjoy the hinging ! However, I do some slot car racing, and some of the slot car sites sell a very fine light oil in a bottle with a tiny tube nozzle. It lets you put a tiny drop of thin oil VERY accurately onto a hinge pin while its together. Also the slot car guys have a white grease that is plastic safe I use sometimes on wheels and things..

We all know this hobby is about collecting different glues and oils after all !

Bcool831

I usually dab vasoline on hinge area that I do not want epoxy on. Has worked well for me thus far.
I will add the gussets on the fuse, ailerons, stab and elev.
I haven’t glued in the wing strut supports yet either. I believe thats what the instructions say to do. Plus I have been told by a couple of builders that some may not line up.
Barry
busab 150

Bcool831

Both sides of fuse is framed up and ply doubler added. I do plan on making gussets for all the stick framing joints of fuse. I hear they tend to sag a bit in the tail end especially.
I will post progress pics when I get a chance tomorrow when I get a couple hrs of aleep after my shift tonight then off to the hospital with spousal unit for a procedure.
Barry
busab 150

foodstick

The gussets don't need to be everywhere but if its a frail area that could easily twist under load it never hurts.
There was a video posted one time of a BUSA DR1 flying high speed.. however it was shown in ULTRA slow motion you could see lots of interesting things going on.. anyone know where that video is?

Bcool831

So I built the wing jig and transposed the hole location onto 1/4” hardi backer board used for laying tile. I was then able to use my small torch to do the soldering of the cabanes. Came out pretty good. I have no future as a plumber thats for sure. Lol

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Boy can I relate to that comment!

Bcool831

Hey guys. What is the best method to set right and down thrust for engine?
If im looking at front of airplane with the tail furthest away, I need to shim top and right side to make thrust angle correct/ie down and right. What is the approximate spacing for that correct angle? The engine is a G26 btw.
thanks
Barry
bcool831
busa150

RICKSTUBBZ

I am sure you guys will enjoy this video. Rather than retyping or copying the text I will let you read it from page.
..In short it is of Richthofen and his DR1..
I am really surprised how fast that thing gets off the ground.

https://shar.es/12Ag7e

Crvilas

I have a P-51 by Aeroworks that I bought about 6 years ago. I am finally looking at puting it together. The question that i have is can i get electric retracts for this airplane.

Bcool831

Eflite sells electric retracts for all size of airplanes. I have several.
Barry
busab 150

Crvilas

I am thinking about building the Balsa Usa 1/3 scale Fokker DR 1.

carlgrover

I like to glue the firewall in so that the right and down thrust are already built in. I'm not a fan of shimming the motor mount. To do this, you have to do a little trig and calculate where the engine centerline has to come out based on the degrees of thrust. Draw the actual center line of the firewall right on it, then draw the new centerline once you determine the thrust measurement. Do the same thing for the downthrust. Once you get your two new centerlines drawn on, you can then drill for the motor mount. the spinner will be cocked to the right and down but will be centered on the fuse.

On some plans all of this has already been done for you which is nice.

carl

Bcool831

Thanks Carl. The dr1 firewall can’t be angled because its also used to measure other areas.
My engine is a g26 which has a flat mount built in. Im thinking just using a single washer behind top right bolt hole.