Great planes - pt20 mk2 build started
09-25-2013, 09:05 PM
#3
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Got a lot done tonight. My tank floor and fuselage firewall aren't meshing well enough to fit. More sanding I guess?
dx6i radio system with an os .25 glow engine. I took a lot of pictures, I will upload them tomorrow after work.
dx6i radio system with an os .25 glow engine. I took a lot of pictures, I will upload them tomorrow after work.
09-26-2013, 06:52 AM
#4
Sounds like you are making good progress! I can't wait to see the pictures. Is the DX6i a new radio? If not find out if it is DM2 or DSMX. The DM2 system only used 2 frequencies for hopping and is prone to interference particularly at the two ends of it's range. Even Horizon admits their is a problem with DM2. JR originally built Spektrum for Horizon but has developed their own system to replace Spektrum technology in there radios. I use a Futaba FAAST system myself. The FAAST system was developed for industrial robots and has been in continuous use since 1998 without a documented interference problem. It has a wider range of frequencies used and hops more often then any other radio brand. I studied Electrical Engineering, I'm now in computer software industry, so I can read through and separate the BS on the web. For small R/C aircraft the Spektrum or Tactic radios are a great value. For larger more expensive aircraft I like to hedge my bets and go with the best technology out there.
09-26-2013, 07:49 PM
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I got all the formers in place firewall in bottom on doing a bolt in wing and got push rod guides in place and flush now I just need to fill them and put top on then starting wings on Saturday
09-27-2013, 07:39 AM
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Thank you. I will be doing landing gear stabs and engine mounting today. Maybe start wings early Saturday. Might be able to finish the basic build this weekend but covering is not my forte I will need advice on that aspect
09-27-2013, 08:48 AM
#11
For ease of use I would try a polyester film like Monokote or Ultracote/Oracote. There are several other brands as well but these are the two I have experience using. You can argue until the cows come home over which one is best but you will never convert either side. Of the two I would say Monkote has the smoothest looking finish however; I prefer Ultracote/Oracote. Ultracote is the brand name in the US, Oracote is name in Germany where it is made and the rest of Europe. The reason I prefer Ultracote is if you set your iron to 220 F (use an iron therometer) it Ultracote has a wider shrink range will tack but not shrink, Monokote won't do that. Also has a wider heat range for shrinking. Whatever one you pick hit the manufacturer's or distributor's website and read the hints. I also recommend the books Faye Stilley's books on Covering R/C Airplanes. He is a contest winner for his covering and his books are well written. The instructions work for any brand of covering. I think he did the How-To factory DVD for Monokote. And yes I do own several of his books and I read them over before every covering job.
09-28-2013, 08:21 PM
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Got the engine mount on all but one screw the metal backing but thing came loose and firewall is already glued. I got throttle rod and nose gear rod but I'm not liking the movement, it goes hard right but won't go hard left because if the tight fit and the horn. Got gas tank pre fitted, servo tray ready and predrilled. About to epoxy horizontal and vertical stabs. Tomorrow is wing building. Time to made a custom balsa wedge. I'm going to glue several scraps together and sand it at a taper to make a tail wedge for the final rudder hinge to have a home. Got a jr radio loaned to me for this plane fm frequency. 6-channel computer based. I will order my .25 glow engine in the morning. Almost complete
09-30-2013, 06:12 AM
#13
I have had that problem with T nuts too, they drive me batty! I had one come loose for a strut on a SIG Cub and I will have to cut into the wing sheeting to fix it. You don't need much throw on a nose wheel I always move the the link to the nose wheel on hole closer to the center of the servo arm than the rudder. Where's the pictures?!
09-30-2013, 09:42 AM
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Pics tonight when I get off work. I have a bad problem I glued horizontal stab on went smoothly now the vertical stab in trying to mount. The rudder when I later everything against the plans it's perfect but when I pre fit the vert stab with rudder attached the bottom of the rudder is supposed to be flush to the fuse there is a half inch gap. What to do?
09-30-2013, 10:09 AM
#15
Pics tonight when I get off work. I have a bad problem I glued horizontal stab on went smoothly now the vertical stab in trying to mount. The rudder when I later everything against the plans it's perfect but when I pre fit the vert stab with rudder attached the bottom of the rudder is supposed to be flush to the fuse there is a half inch gap. What to do?
Mike
10-01-2013, 08:22 AM
#20
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One thing to keep in mind is a slight tweek or change will not have an impact on how well this model flies. For the fin you might need to sand the angle on either the trailing edge or the base so the angle of the rudder brings it in contact with the fuse.
10-01-2013, 08:50 AM
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Already checked everything it's got to be an error in the kit no matter what angle I put it at it's still to short to hinge. No biggie I bought a scrap piece the same size to modify later I figure I'll build the wings first. I ran out of ca lol! Here's a pic of the pieces I got so far 
I like the wing in this kit it's locking I beam design literally took longer to punch out the ribs than to assemble the whole panels I should be complete in a couple of weeks, ISay that because I'm waiting for the motor to ship
10-02-2013, 02:41 AM
#22
I believe you glued the stabilizer on too far rearward. It was supposed to have the elevator attached temporarily & then the rear of the elevator would have been in the correct location,( just above the rear of the fuse.) Your rudder would then align up correctly. Not the end of the world though, like its been stated above, a filler piece of balsa tapered to match the fuse will fix things up. Then just relocate the rudder rearward to compensate......Gene
10-02-2013, 07:23 AM
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Yeah I hinged the control surfaces in the first step lol there's a bit of gap that I can fix with covering I'll get it right though. I'm having issues with joining my wing, I got the gaps out and I'm liking it but I don't have hobby clamps so I didn't try to epoxy it yet I'm not going to lie I'm no good at wings but this is the best wings I've done in my builds. I bought my receiver battery, spinner, hardware for servos but I gotta find some control hardware for the servos for Futaba online as my hobby shop didn't have any. Tonight I will join the wings and start sheeting it. While I'm waiting for epoxy I will mount rudder etc and test fit tank servos and battery. Now how do I balance this thing without a tool? I will most likely start covering this weekend if all goes well
